Removing press-in hub assemblies woes

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Is the grease still good in the bearing? The race always seem to come out on the hub. If the grease is good and the bearing is in good condition u press the hub back in and u ok. I prefer to change the bearing when i do the rotors but thats just me

Did u use a pickle fork to seperate the ball joint?. How did u damage the ball joint?
 
Check for play in the ball joint by raising the car and check for play on the wheel shaking it at the 6 and 12 position. I also check for play while supporting the lower control arm too
 
Originally Posted By: RH+G
Is the grease still good in the bearing? The race always seem to come out on the hub. If the grease is good and the bearing is in good condition u press the hub back in and u ok. I prefer to change the bearing when i do the rotors but thats just me

Did u use a pickle fork to seperate the ball joint?. How did u damage the ball joint?

No, I didn't use a pickle fork like I should have. I tried using a tire rod puller. It wasn't centered on the ball joint stud and damaged the threads on it. I ended up buying a pickle fork and got it off. There wasn't that much grease in the bearing at all if I remember correctly. I'll take another look tonight and maybe snap a picture.
 
I never use a pickle fork. Their is no need to. Just whack the knuckle where the ball joint goes thru and the ball joint will pop out and u wont damage anything.
 
Well this job is finally DONE!!....sort of. I replaced both lower ball joints, the passenger side wheel bearing, and the rotors and pads, which is all I originally planned on replacing and then some. I have decided to also replace the upper ball joints and sway bar end links. Luckily I won't have to redo any of the work I just did to do that. I also discovered a torn CV boot just as I was finishing bolting everything back together (which I SHOULD have noticed right at the beginning).
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I think I'll leave the CV boot for my mechanic. I could probably do it myself if I wanted to, but I'm just so burned out from this last job and don't feel like doing yet another job I've never done before.
 
One more question: What do I torque the spindle nut to? My Haynes manual says 180 ft lbs, but reading around online I've seen recommendations anywhere between 150-250 ft lbs.
 
180 sounds about right iirc, you just need an appropriate range torque wrench and something like a 30mm socket, but you probably already already have the socket since you got it apart. Also be sure to bend the retainer back down on the nut with a flathead or something.
 
The car is at the shop right now getting the CV axle replaced. I kind of regret not doing it myself, oh well too late now. I have new upper control arms and sway bar end links at home waiting to be installed, should have it done by the end of the week.
 
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