Removing contaminated Ceramic coating - how to?

Joined
Sep 20, 2014
Messages
2,798
Location
Seattle-ish, WA
Early this evening I was applying some ceramic coating/sealant to a car of mine. I have not done it before; I followed directions and used the included sponge applicator to do the side panels on one side of the car to learn the technique. All was good. Then I got to the hood, the applicator started to come apart (foam pad on stiffer backing board); the thin sponge separating from the backer board. After 1/2 the hood, the sponge was useless and I chucked it and continued on with a clean microfiber cloth I had.

When I came back to buff, the 1/2 the hood done with the sponge was tacky, streaky, and wouldn't dry or buff. I realized the SiO2 had dissolved the adhesive holding the sponge to the backer and it was in the ceramic in that area. It was around dark and I didn't have a lot to do, and kids to feed, so I left it. But I realized I had a bigger problem than I thought since the LF fender and 1/2 the hood are now contaminated.

What do I do in the morning to strip that and re-apply that area?
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
28,207
Location
CA
Were you using this type of applicator?


If so, a suede towel should have been used on top of the black foam side.

Which coating was this?

Did you level the high spots after application?

The course of action really depends on how the surface looks. These ceramic coatings are extremely thin so it is impossible to have adhesive/debris stuck to the surface. If the coating has no high spots, I would wait until it cures (7 days+, generally) and use a solvent such as Tarminator to remove the adhesive residue.

If the end result is a mess anyway, then I would use Tarminator as soon as possible, re-polish the area and re-coat.
 

Oro_O

Thread starter
Joined
Sep 20, 2014
Messages
2,798
Location
Seattle-ish, WA
Yes, it was pads like that and the instructions were to put the compound on the sponge applicator; nothing about separately sourcing suede. ;)

It's a real mess with the adhesive streaking in the ceramic layer, at least on the hood - the most visible spot. The rest of the car looks great. If I try to take it off now, I'll wreck the rest of the job getting splatter and water on it. I am thinking I tolerate the mess for a week then try to strip/polish it off and re-apply.

What a mess, and how avoidable with some proper instruction. So what's the best applicator for ceramic coatings?
 
Joined
Aug 30, 2004
Messages
28,207
Location
CA

Oro_O

Thread starter
Joined
Sep 20, 2014
Messages
2,798
Location
Seattle-ish, WA
Nice tip, I'll pick up something like that or those before I correct this. I hoped to do my SUV also before fall, and perhaps a friend's car - so will get use out of them.

In a few days when the rest is fully cured I'll strip the hood and a few spots on the front fenders. I used a clean microfiber rag to apply the other side and back, it looks nice but like noted in that link above of yours, wasted a lot of compound saturating the corner of the cloth. You can see below the clouds in the coating from the contamination.

Thanks for the tips and moral support!

IMG-2528.JPG
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2014
Messages
2,189
Location
WV
I would try some more of the coating on the bad spots asap. When I had streaks on a dark car I just applied more product which took them out. I've found that you have to use more sealer than the instructions say. Dark vehicles are harder to do.
 

Oro_O

Thread starter
Joined
Sep 20, 2014
Messages
2,798
Location
Seattle-ish, WA
I would try some more of the coating on the bad spots asap. When I had streaks on a dark car I just applied more product which took them out. I've found that you have to use more sealer than the instructions say. Dark vehicles are harder to do.

OK, old thread but that's a good idea. Very good idea.

Like dissolves like. D'oh. I should have thought of that.

This car was destroyed in January when a semi truck rear-ended me. So the point is moot, unfortunately. But for the record, that's a good idea.
 
Top