Reliability of Current Vehicles.

[Lyman]

I just turned 150k on my ranger. I have all the records from the original owner. So far the only repairs have been Radiator, CV joints(4x4) and ball joints. And a rebuilt valve body(auto trans). I did have to track down a vacuum line that was off when I purchased it.

 

[Whimsey]

My soon to be 19 year Contour has ~102,000 miles, Other than normal wear items and regular maintenance I've done nothing extra. It runs great and is rust free, because I garage it during the NJ "salty" winter months. My 2002 F-150 has paid the price of running 12 months a year in NJ. All my problems are rust related. Mechanically it's been great. I'm trying to for stall the inevitable onslaught of "NJ salt cancer". The doors started rusting at the bottom seams 6 years ago. I had that temporarly "fixed" twice. Then 2 years ago rust started all of a sudden on the bed body, from behind. I've rust neutralized from behind and sanded and repainted the surface. The rust comes back so I keep doing redoing the rust repair. It's hopeless, the best i can do is to slow it down.

Whimsey

 

[AKhan87]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: NJC
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: OneEyeJack
The biggest maintenance expense has been an engine rebuild at 420K miles because of visible oil smoke.

I love honda and toyota engines...

Include me on the list too.

I like most of them, too.

But some very vocal owners do not agree. Honda's V6 with VCM comes to mind, as does the notorious Corolla motors that coke up and use oil like crazy.

Far from perfect...

those corolla engines, even after burning oil for 350k, a quick re-drilling of the piston oil return holes/increasing the quantity and the engines goes back to not burning any oil.

I have 5 in the family, as long as your not an idiot and run it VERY low on oil, there will be no harm done.

120k, 140k, 203k, 256k, 350k all of these 1ZZ-FE engines rebuild(all of this with the engine block still in the car) within a year and none, NONE burn oil anymore.

And they all get +3-5 above EPA estimated MPG too, and shift flawlessly.

Reliable? Oh I think so.

 

[FXjohn]

1996 4.3 v6 in a chevy S-10.

375,000 miles, no major issues at all, no engine work.

reliable? uhm...yes

 

[Nick R]

Ah hahahaha. Ok, one of these threads huh?

Let's start with the worst one: my 97 cavalier. I got it with 128k miles. Before I even got it, it had the transmission replaced at 120k, and new struts right before, plus a few wheel bearings.

In the year and 10k miles I had it, I replaced...
-Alternator
-Front passenger wheel bearing
-Head gasket
-A/C compressor and drier
-Water Pump
-2 Valve cover gaskets
-Front brake pads (the set that was on it weren't that old)
-Catalytic Converter & set of O2 sensors

It needed a new EGR valve too, but it died of a failed oil pump before I could do that.

Our 2003 Expedition had the alternator die within 10k miles (brand new), and left us stranded at a mcdonalds at night. Starting at about 50k miles we had to replace 3 ignition coils. Also, a new rear mix door motor and gearbox. And before we got rid of it, it had vacuum problems that would cause the front mix door to blow out different vents depending on throttle position.

Other than that, not much to speak of.

My focus had the input shaft seal on the transmission, as well as the clutch pack replaced under warranty here at about 31k miles (part of a very common TSB). Other than that, 35.5k miles and no other problems to speak of.

My 2011 Focus, Cruze, and Mazda all had no problems to speak of. My Dad's Cruze has 35k miles, no problems. The equinox had no problems when it was sold, and the only problems the traverse has had no problems aside from the airbag wiring harness recall.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt

those corolla engines, even after burning oil for 350k, a quick re-drilling of the piston oil return holes/increasing the quantity and the engines goes back to not burning any oil.

I have 5 in the family, as long as your not an idiot and run it VERY low on oil, there will be no harm done.

120k, 140k, 203k, 256k, 350k all of these 1ZZ-FE engines rebuild(all of this with the engine block still in the car) within a year and none, NONE burn oil anymore.

And they all get +3-5 above EPA estimated MPG too, and shift flawlessly.

Reliable? Oh I think so.



Absolutely hilarious defense there! I have a LOT full of cars and trucks, yet I have never had to do any "quick" drilling of the oil returns in my pistons on a single one!

Quick and easy! ROTFLMAO!!

C'mon, man, all that does is make non Toyota fans laugh!

There are dozens of great engines from them, what an example you picked....

 

[bradepb]

I work for a fleet with school buses on van body's, also full size buses. The newer gmc and ford 1 ton chassis are much better than they were the last 3 decades. We kind of have it easy now as far as repairs.

My 04 Malibu at 110,000 has been a pain as far as numerous electrical glitches but has never let me down, has always run great and no major repair.

My 04 Escape at 125,000 is hands down the best vehicle I have ever owned, normal maintenance is all it has ever needed. At 11 years old Everything still works and it drives great.

Stay tuned for our recently aquired 2012 Regal with 8500 miles

 

[supton]

My wife's '01 Civic blew a CV at ~120k (forget now), stranded her with the baby. Up and quit. Luckily close to home. That car was a lemon but it did about 5yr/100k ok outside of an ac repair or two--but it needed ac work every 2 years, and late in life it started gobbling up stuff (wheel bearings, complete exhaust system, oil pan). I was glad when it was traded for the '11 Camry. Which has not been a stellar example of the Toyota myth: it needed the parking brake handle tightened (got loose), and the rear pads froze, causing one to prematurely wear at 55k. New set of pads at only 55k! Stupid. Thankfully that is the only repair it has needed (but don't start me on tires, it's on its third set already).

My Tundra isn't much better; I bought that used so no idea what it got prior to me (but whatever it got didn't show up on a Carfax). Me, I had to have the front diff rebuilt at 85k under a TSB, and now I'm waiting for the steering rack and/or water pump to go.

Now my VW ought to be a lemon, but outside of a couple of recalls it went 3yr/100k w/o issues. After that it became a VW.

Personally I think a vehicle ought to go 3 to 5 years / 100k w/o repairs. A set of tires or two and maybe some wiper blades, anything else and I'm kinda disappointed.

 

[Win]

Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
....

those corolla engines, even after burning oil for 350k, a quick re-drilling of the piston oil return holes/increasing the quantity and the engines goes back to not burning any oil.

I have 5 in the family, as long as your not an idiot and run it VERY low on oil, there will be no harm done.

120k, 140k, 203k, 256k, 350k all of these 1ZZ-FE engines rebuild(all of this with the engine block still in the car) within a year and none, NONE burn oil anymore.

And they all get +3-5 above EPA estimated MPG too, and shift flawlessly.

Reliable? Oh I think so.


I don't know what that has to do with reliability, but it sounds like an enormous pain in the behind.

You must really love Toyota's to go through that ordeal more than once.

 

[supton]

If he has N+1 vehicles, he can work at it at his own pace. Do one, move to next car. By the third vehicle I bet it took a third of the time to do!

 

[SwampSurvivor]

It has to be a hard thing to do if you don't have a lift.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: supton
If he has N+1 vehicles, he can work at it at his own pace. Do one, move to next car. By the third vehicle I bet it took a third of the time to do!


Yep, it's one of those jobs that by the time you get good at it, you're done...

 

[FXjohn]

Originally Posted By: Win
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
....

those corolla engines, even after burning oil for 350k, a quick re-drilling of the piston oil return holes/increasing the quantity and the engines goes back to not burning any oil.

I have 5 in the family, as long as your not an idiot and run it VERY low on oil, there will be no harm done.

120k, 140k, 203k, 256k, 350k all of these 1ZZ-FE engines rebuild(all of this with the engine block still in the car) within a year and none, NONE burn oil anymore.

And they all get +3-5 above EPA estimated MPG too, and shift flawlessly.

Reliable? Oh I think so.


I don't know what that has to do with reliability, but it sounds like an enormous pain in the behind.

You must really love Toyota's to go through that ordeal more than once.


it's called japanese kool aid

 

[AKhan87]

Originally Posted By: Win
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
....

those corolla engines, even after burning oil for 350k, a quick re-drilling of the piston oil return holes/increasing the quantity and the engines goes back to not burning any oil.

I have 5 in the family, as long as your not an idiot and run it VERY low on oil, there will be no harm done.

120k, 140k, 203k, 256k, 350k all of these 1ZZ-FE engines rebuild(all of this with the engine block still in the car) within a year and none, NONE burn oil anymore.

And they all get +3-5 above EPA estimated MPG too, and shift flawlessly.

Reliable? Oh I think so.


I don't know what that has to do with reliability, but it sounds like an enormous pain in the behind.

You must really love Toyota's to go through that ordeal more than once.

No I think is easy to do so, and their mpg are worth it.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
Originally Posted By: Win
Originally Posted By: 01_celica_gt
....

those corolla engines, even after burning oil for 350k, a quick re-drilling of the piston oil return holes/increasing the quantity and the engines goes back to not burning any oil.

I have 5 in the family, as long as your not an idiot and run it VERY low on oil, there will be no harm done.

120k, 140k, 203k, 256k, 350k all of these 1ZZ-FE engines rebuild(all of this with the engine block still in the car) within a year and none, NONE burn oil anymore.

And they all get +3-5 above EPA estimated MPG too, and shift flawlessly.

Reliable? Oh I think so.


I don't know what that has to do with reliability, but it sounds like an enormous pain in the behind.

You must really love Toyota's to go through that ordeal more than once.

No I think is easy to do so, and their mpg are worth it.


Pulling the pistons out of the motor to fix oil consumption flies in the face of reliability though. Pulling the bottom end of the motor to deal with a problem, while easy for some, certainly doesn't put something in the record books for reliability for most.

Don't get me wrong, I understand your reasoning for doing it, but it is a serious strike against it here.

 

[CBR.worm]

My current G35 has 155k miles. Repair wise it has needed all four wheel bearings, a radiator fan and a window motor.

Maintenance wise it is on it's 8th set of brake pads and rotors, 10th set of tires - all Michelin PS/2 or PSS except for one set of Conti Extreme DWs. About 20 oil changes, about to do the 4th rear diff oil and 4th MT oil. Just did the 4th brake flush. Have done the coolant and thermostat twice. Changed PS fluid once. Many air filters. Still have the OE clutch and the car still looks almost new inside and out.

This is my DD except for the kid pickups and dropoffs.


We have an '06 FX45 Infiniti w 115k that has required more work, but not much. The dash has been replaced as well as the driver seat, both under warranty. Had a crack in the drivers B-pillar that was repaired under warranty - it would make noise during hard cornering. Both front wheel bearings have been replaced. I had one of the four cats fail. The drivers seat is cracked again, but no longer under warranty.

Maintenance is similar, front and rear diff oil twice so far, center once. Coolant twice, thermostat once. ATF flushed twice so far. Same almost 20k per set of brakes and summer tires. A few air filters.

This car rarely sees the highway unless a trailer is attached, it does daily kid duty of about 8 stops with about 1 mile between each.

My wife has an '08 BMW 528i w/ 73k which was completely trouble free aside from a warranty battery replacement at the 4 year mark. In the last 3k miles we have had to have the alternator replaced, then some aluminum head bolts and a leaking oil filter housing gasket - two different trips, covered under 'goodwill' warranty. Then a third trip for a leaking valvetronic seal, which they also covered. About a week later a coil pack failed, so I replaced all 6 and the plugs. I have to say that the dealer has been great.

It has had 11 oil changes, 3 brake fluid flushes and is on it's 5th set of four tires. This car has only been on a couple highway trips.

I find it ironic that the OE brakes and plugs outlast the alternator and coils. Bosch electronics have caused me a lot of pain in the last 10 years.

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
10th set of tires - all Michelin PS/2 or PSS except for one set of Conti Extreme DWs.


Oh my, and I thought my truck liked tires (6 sets, 157K mi).

My truck has needed some non-maintenance repairs. The big one was precats. Aside from that, a couple cam synchros, a PCV hose, A/C compressor relay, belt tensioner (warranty), and I did replace the IAC, though it wasn't "broken," just not operating as good as I wanted it to and I couldn't find a cleaner/lube that would last.

The precats set me back almost $300, and was the only problem that was really aggravating as far as drivability. It would have been less aggravating had the $500 Magnaflow I originally bought actually fit the truck. The cats failed at almost 150K mi though, and I have really beat on this truck for most of its life, so some of the blame at least falls on me. I'm sure at 5K RPM the thing is running pig rich and dumping the precats full of fuel. It was bound to happen.

The cam synchro is not such an issue now that I know how to replace it, it's just aggravating that I can't fix it permanently so it never happens again. I should be good for at least 50K mi now, but I know it will have to be done again in the next 100K.

The PCV hose should be good for a long time. Ford changed the design so it doesn't collapse. It will have to dry rot all the way through to fail again.

I did put ball joints on this truck proactively, but that is borderline maintenance on an IFS truck. I might have made it to 200K on the originals for all I know, but once the boots cracked, I upgraded even though the originals were still good.

The difference I notice is that every problem on this truck has been one that could be put off for some time, or otherwise easily dealt with/worked around in my schedule. 1970s and 80s vehicles seem much more prone to leaving you stranded or just randomly breaking down. I don't worry about being stranded in this truck. It gives ample warning everytime it wants to [censored] [censored] up. I generally have months or longer to deal with an issue. It will start, run, and drive every time no matter what. It has never broken down. Even the day I totaled it, it never missed a beat. Drove it to Certifit with most of the front clip missing to pick up its replacement parts.

 

[Nick1994]

Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
My current G35 has 155k miles. Repair wise it has needed all four wheel bearings, a radiator fan and a window motor.

Maintenance wise it is on it's 8th set of brake pads and rotors, 10th set of tires -

Geez, that thing sounds like a junker. Either that or you love to replace parts. My VW has original silent wheel bearings, original front brakes (2/3 remaining at 160k miles) and its 3rd set of tires.

 

[01rangerxl]

Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: CBR.worm
My current G35 has 155k miles. Repair wise it has needed all four wheel bearings, a radiator fan and a window motor.

Maintenance wise it is on it's 8th set of brake pads and rotors, 10th set of tires -

Geez, that thing sounds like a junker. Either that or you love to replace parts. My VW has original silent wheel bearings, original front brakes (2/3 remaining at 160k miles) and its 3rd set of tires.


Brakes & tires are not indicative of a "junker" so much as they are of how the vehicle is driven and sometimes the quality of parts used.

On the other hand, it sounds like his G has never had the trans dropped to replace something like a flywheel. I haven't had to do that either. To some people flywheel X2 would = junker.

 

[Nick1994]

The Beetle hasn't been perfect by pretty darn good. I consider most of these repairs wear and tear.
Under warranty it had a brake light switch and an airbag sensor replaced as well as glow plugs (I believe those were recalls too), has had a few head light bulbs replaced as well as a few cv boots. Control arm bushings and upper strut mounts. Had rear brakes done at 106k because the dealer recommended it (probably could have gone longer) has also had a radiator fan replaced. Oh, also a thermostat that was stuck open. And a starter. Original front brakes at at least 2/3 of pad left with 160k miles and its 3rd set of tires. Current set of tires has almost 57,000 miles and is still at around 7/32" of tread.

Bushings from rough roads, a starter on a high compression engine, and an electric fan as the only real repairs done I think is wear and tear. Not too bad. The flywheel is a common problem on these cars, and either they installed the replacement wrong or it was a [censored] part, they're fixing it again now.