Rehab a 2000 Buick Regal GS, 250,000 miles.

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2000 Buick Regal GS, 250,000 Miles, Supercharged V6, Automatic Transmission. I'm trying to help my folks by rehabbing their 2nd car. My dad has always changed the oil and had the brakes done, but things like fuel filter, transmission fluid, etc has been seriously neglected. The cars runs ok now but it does need new plugs, filters, etc and some general TLC. The drivers side windows both just fell down recently and my dad has them being held up by duct tape. lol It also has a minor oil and trans fluid leak. So my list to work on the car so far is;

1) Fuel Filter
2) Restore oil additive (the oil was just changed so when I do change it, I'll use Valvoline High Mileage with Restore to hopefully slow down leak)
3) Trans fluid drain and fill (multiple times over the next few months)
4) Air filter
5) Plugs and plug wires
6) Window repair - I assume this is the track system that needs replacement but I'll have to open the door panel to see.
7) Radiator drain and fill
8) Supercharger fluid drain and fill
9) Intake cleaning
10) General cosmetic cleaning and vacuuming.


Can anyone else think of anything I would want to look at? I don't want to just throw parts at the car but if it's an inexpensive part (like a PCV valve) I would bet it's the original so I'll just change it. It still runs good even with 250K on the odometer so I think it's worth investing in a little bit. It's just used to get back and forth to work, almost all highway.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.
 
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There's a shift kit for this tranny that compensates for dud solenoids which would otherwise require the side case to come off, a hassle. You can stick this in when you do your filter change. Even if the trans works fine, when the solenoids conk out, you'd be glad the kit went in.
 
I'd skip 2 and 9, but otherwise you're on the right track. I'd also just do a new window regulator and skip the junkyard.
 
I don't even know what that means. lol When you say filter, I assume you mean transmission filter? Is this an expensive part? I hadn't planned on dropping the pan but I may end up doing so as I think the leak for the transmission is at the pan gasket. Thanks.
 
I had looked at Rockauto and their parts for this window were surprisingly affordable. I have not had good luck with pull parts in the past so I usually don't go that route. Thanks!
 
it's funny, I've tried a few of those gas and oil treatments like seafood, techron, etc and never felt like they did much. Restore on the other hand, made my Sequoia purr as smooth as it ever has. it wasn't that rough to begin with, but it's still noticeably better. Its high mileage as well so I think Ill throw it in there. Otherwise, I think I agree with you they don't do much.
 
Is that good? I've never owned a vehicle with a supercharger, only turbos so I'm not very knowledgeable on them. My folks bought the car new and it's been driven hard a few times but mostly just cruising the highway.
 
Originally Posted By: Tlhfirelion
6) Window repair - I assume this is the track system that needs replacement but I'll have to open the door panel to see.


Window regulators. Start at the bottom of the door panel. Get two flexible putty knives each about 1-1/4'' wide. I say flexible because they're thinner than the rigid ones. Slide one putty knife between the door panel and door and move it across the door until you run into a retaining pin. Then put the other putty knife on the other side of the pin. Twist both putty knives at the same time in opposite rotating directions. You'll hear a distinct pop. Then move onto the next pin.

MARIP02000.JPG
 
If you have to pull the intake to do the plugs and wires, you should also replace the valve cover gaskets.

The OEM ACDelco spark plugs are made by NGK, and they are a great price. Pair them with NGK wires part #51031

If your transmission doesn't have a drain plug, get the Dorman pan that has one. This will make future ATF changes much easier.

Fram Tough Guard/Ultra air filter

GM OEM radiator (Rock Auto has it for less than the dealer charges)

You probably need a new window motor/regulator

The supercharger oil is just M1 5w30
 
you read my mind, I was just looking for the best plug wires, thanks! I have some high mileage mobil 1 5w30 left over from my sequoia, will that work? I'll have to take a look at the trans pan when I get home, I just assumed being 18 years old it would have a drain plug and just fill it thru the neck on the topside. I hate sealed transmissions.

I just went and looked at rock auto for the parts you listed, new trans pan, radiator, etc. It's amazing how much cheaper these parts are than for my japanese cars. They cost less than half! Geesh.
 
Thats some good advice. I have one of those harbor freight body panels kits made from plastic, but they're all rather thick. I have some putty knives like the one pictured so I'll use those. Thank you.
 
IF the engine consumes some oil, the rings may have some gunk on them. After 250k miles, use "Valvoline Premium Blue Restore 10w30", make sure the word Restore is seen on the front, as they do make 'Blue' products that can be confused with that jug. Some discussion on it from bitog people:
Originally Posted By: JAG
Wow, that engine has a lot of deposits. Looks like a good candidate to try the Valvoline Premium Blue Restore oil in. If not that, then some Castrol 0W-40, M1 0W-40, or Amsoil Signature Series.
Originally Posted By: oil_film_movies
Valvoline Premium Blue Restore is 10w30, and expensive, but maybe worth it (?)
https://www.ryderfleetproducts.com/valvoline-877377/premium-blue-restore-10w30-gallon-p-vvl-877377
Originally Posted By: Rat407
It is specifically used to clean up and keep clean the inside of the engine. Hence "Restore". According to Terry Dyson, this specific formula is a very exotic blend.

You can only get it at RyderFleet or Cummins support places. Ryderfleet has it on the internet mail-order.
I'd use it every 100,000 miles just to clear out the ring-packs.
 
Originally Posted By: Tlhfirelion
you read my mind, I was just looking for the best plug wires, thanks! I have some high mileage mobil 1 5w30 left over from my sequoia, will that work? I'll have to take a look at the trans pan when I get home, I just assumed being 18 years old it would have a drain plug and just fill it thru the neck on the topside. I hate sealed transmissions.

I just went and looked at rock auto for the parts you listed, new trans pan, radiator, etc. It's amazing how much cheaper these parts are than for my japanese cars. They cost less than half! Geesh.


yup
01.gif


The Japanese really gouge for some of their OEM parts, like CV axles and radiators
mad.gif


Yeah, usually the American cars are too stupid to put a drain plug on their transmissions. The best example I can think of is with Ford/Mazda. They shared a lot of parts because Ford owned Mazda until just a few years ago. Anyway, an example is the 4-speed automatic used on many Fords and Mazdas in the early 2000's. The same automatic transmission was used on both the Mk1 Focus and a few Mazdas such as the Protege. Mazda includes a drain plug, but Ford does not
crazy2.gif


GM also supplies automatic transmission to many expensive European cars. Those transmissions have a drain plug. Most of their domestic transmissions do not.

Rock Auto doesn't carry the NGK wires for your car, and I don't think they have the TG air filter, either. But Rockauto does have all the other parts you need. And the wires and air filter are easily available on eBay, Amazon, and many other places.

I'm not sure about the HM 5w30 being suitable for the supercharger. It probably is, but maybe not. But you can always keep that HM for the engine (since you said it does leak oil), and buy a quart of regular M1 5w30 for the supercharger. I think the supercharger only takes a few ounces of oil (nowhere near a full quart), so you can also save the rest of that quart to top off the engine.
 
I'll just get a quart of regular dino mobil 1 5w30 for the supercharger at walmart. it's not expensive and I was headed there anyway for the cabin filter, air filter and what not. With this high a mileage, any new filter will breath new life into the old girl. lol

Thanks for the info on the drain plug differences. I like to tuck those little kernels of info away. Never know when they'll be handy. Thankfully a replacement pan for this buick with a drain plug is dirt cheap. If it doesn't have one, I may just replace it and the gasket and filter. Need to spend more time with the vehicle and get a feel for it and look at my folks receipts to see what all has been done. They're not quite as militant as me about maintenance and record keeping.


Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: Tlhfirelion
you read my mind, I was just looking for the best plug wires, thanks! I have some high mileage mobil 1 5w30 left over from my sequoia, will that work? I'll have to take a look at the trans pan when I get home, I just assumed being 18 years old it would have a drain plug and just fill it thru the neck on the topside. I hate sealed transmissions.

I just went and looked at rock auto for the parts you listed, new trans pan, radiator, etc. It's amazing how much cheaper these parts are than for my japanese cars. They cost less than half! Geesh.


yup
01.gif


The Japanese really gouge for some of their OEM parts, like CV axles and radiators
mad.gif


Yeah, usually the American cars are too stupid to put a drain plug on their transmissions. The best example I can think of is with Ford/Mazda. They shared a lot of parts because Ford owned Mazda until just a few years ago. Anyway, an example is the 4-speed automatic used on many Fords and Mazdas in the early 2000's. The same automatic transmission was used on both the Mk1 Focus and a few Mazdas such as the Protege. Mazda includes a drain plug, but Ford does not
crazy2.gif


GM also supplies automatic transmission to many expensive European cars. Those transmissions have a drain plug. Most of their domestic transmissions do not.

Rock Auto doesn't carry the NGK wires for your car, and I don't think they have the TG air filter, either. But Rockauto does have all the other parts you need. And the wires and air filter are easily available on eBay, Amazon, and many other places.

I'm not sure about the HM 5w30 being suitable for the supercharger. It probably is, but maybe not. But you can always keep that HM for the engine (since you said it does leak oil), and buy a quart of regular M1 5w30 for the supercharger. I think the supercharger only takes a few ounces of oil (nowhere near a full quart), so you can also save the rest of that quart to top off the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: Tlhfirelion
it's funny, I've tried a few of those gas and oil treatments like seafood, techron, etc and never felt like they did much.


I laughed a little harder than I should have
crackmeup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
If you have to pull the intake to do the plugs and wires, you should also replace the valve cover gaskets.

The OEM ACDelco spark plugs are made by NGK, and they are a great price. Pair them with NGK wires part #51031

If your transmission doesn't have a drain plug, get the Dorman pan that has one. This will make future ATF changes much easier.

Fram Tough Guard/Ultra air filter

GM OEM radiator (Rock Auto has it for less than the dealer charges)

You probably need a new window motor/regulator

The supercharger oil is just M1 5w30


New radiator, transmission pan and intake gaskets on a $800 car that needs new window regulators.
I think the service managers have finally infiltrated BITOG.
 
Personally I'd use the GM supercharger oil. I've heard of some GM tech bulletin that suggested Mobil1 5w30, but that was for early 90's cars with the Eaton M62 supercharger and it was a way for the dealer not to have to order the genuine stuff.

If you've ever had the real stuff vs. motor oil side by side, it's obvious that it's not just motor oil. For an extra $5, I'd go down to my local dealer or buy a bottle of either the GM or Eaton brand stuff online and take comfort knowing I have right stuff in it. Just my humble opinion!
 
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