reducing lead wear numbers?

[zoomzoom]

Here is the analysis I did on mobil 1 5w-30 after 10K , now I'm running mobil1 10w-30(8k so it is almost time to change) but both of those are thin 30 weight and I'm wondering if my lead wear is a bit high because of this. My V6 has a 7000 redline and I like to rew it form time to time.
Will heavier weight oil help reduce my lead wear?
I'm thinking of either mobil1 0w-40 or new castrol 0w-30?
What do you guys think?

UNIT 2000 MAZDA 626 LX-V6
MI/HR ON OIL 10,000
MI/HR ON UNIT 60,000
SAMPLE DATE 4/6/2003


FIRST NUMBER IS MY OIL AND SECOND NUMBER IS UNIVERSAL AVERAGE


ALUMINUM 7 4
CHROMIUM 2 1
IRON 33 12
COPPER 7 6
LEAD 23 5
TIN 0 13
MOLYBDENUM 75 0
NICKEL 1 0
MANGANESE 1 1
SILVER 0 0
TITANIUM 0 0
POTASSIUM 2 0
BORON 108 38
SILICON 11 9
SODIUM 9 6
CALCIUM 2951 1304
MAGNESIUM 73 481
PHOSPHORUS 801 747
ZINC 963 880
BARIUM 0 1


SUS VISCOSITY @ 210 ºF 64 55-62
FLASHPOINT IN ºF 415 >365
FUEL % WATER % 0 ANTIFREEZE % 0 0
INSOLUBLES % 0.04

LAB COMMENT:Nothing too unusual showed up here. This oil was run quite a bit longer that what we
normally see and this is the reason for most of the high wear. The universal averages column shows typical wear from this type of engine after 4,000-5,000 miles on the oil. Lead at 23 ppm shows mildly high bearing wear, though everything else looks okay. The TBN was 3.5 which is low, but not a problem. 2.0 or less is considered a problem. The oil started at 10-11. No fuel or anti-freeze was present. Suggest going 11,000 next oil and resample at that point to monitor.

 

[quadrun1]

Yes, give M1 0W-40 or the GC a try...

 

[YZF150]

Do you drive this vehicle hard when it's still cold? If so, you could drop those numbers significantly by changing your habits.

I don't think much of the lab's advice either, to drive it even more miles than this, when flagging "mildly high bearing wear".

 

[zoomzoom]

quote:

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Originally posted by YZF150:
Do you drive this vehicle hard when it's still cold? If so, you could drop those numbers significantly by changing your habits.

I don't think much of the lab's advice either, to drive it even more miles than this, when flagging "mildly high bearing wear".

---

No, I generally wait until car is warmed up before do any aggressive driving..

What do you guys think about this report in general?

 

[Patman]

I would suggest taking a sample at 5k next time around and see where the numbers are at. Perhaps you've simply gone too far on this oil under the conditions you drive?

 

[zoomzoom]

Forgot to mention that this oil was used during the winter, november to april. Will that afect the wear numbers?

 

[YZF150]

Very much so. DC in Winter is a motor oil-hostile environment. This might be a 5K oil in Winter, 10K oil in summer, for you and your ride.

 

[zoomzoom]

Do you guys know where in DC I can get german castrol?

 

[MolaKule]

Why not wait until you see the results of the Mobil 1 10w30 BEFORE JUMPING SHIPS?

 

[Patman]

quote:

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Originally posted by MolaKule:
Why not wait until you see the results of the Mobil 1 10w30 BEFORE JUMPING SHIPS?

---

That is a good idea, however under identical conditions (as long as it isn't winter time), Mobil 1 10w30 should perform pretty much the same as their 5w30. He will probably see better results on the 10w30 simply due to the warmer weather conditions this interval. But that doesn't mean he should continue to run 10w30 through the next winter, he should definitely be running the 5w30 if it gets real cold where he lives, as he'll see better wear numbers with 5w30 in the wintertime than he would with 10w30.

[ September 12, 2003, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]

 

[shortyb]

I agree with MolaKule, but if your looking for GC, I have seen it at every Autozone in the No. Va. area that I have been to.

Hey Patman, silly question, but why would he get better wear #s from 5W vs the 10W? Last winter here in the Wash. metro area was a b!tch but I don't remember the lows getting down much below the single digits (F) on the coldest mornings. Just wonderin'.

 

[Amkeer]

I would go with Patman suggestions, change the oil sooner. I would go 6 months or 7500 miles at most and see how numbers post. 10000 miles may be pushing it according to reports.

Daily Drives
-2003 Toyota Tacoma PreRunner XtraCab, Impulse Red, Peppy 2.7 Liter 4 Banger, Running Mobil1 Synthetics SS 5W-30.
ODO 4700 Miles.
-1995 Toyota 4-Runner, Evergreen, 3.0 V6, Running Mobil1 Synthetic SS 10W-30.
ODO 81700 Miles.

 

[zoomzoom]

hm... I thought that hi lead numbers would be coming more due to the inadeqate protection of 30 weight oil at higher RPM's rather then cold starts...
Am I wrong about this?

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by shortyb:
I agree with MolaKule, but if your looking for GC, I have seen it at every Autozone in the No. Va. area that I have been to.

Hey Patman, silly question, but why would he get better wear #s from 5W vs the 10W? Last winter here in the Wash. metro area was a b!tch but I don't remember the lows getting down much below the single digits (F) on the coldest mornings. Just wonderin'.

---

Even if it's getting down to around 10-15F overnight, the 5w30 will flow better than the 10w30. Sure the 10w30 will still do ok and the engine will still start, it's just that the 5w30 would flow just a little bit better and you'd hear the starter motor turning over easier.

 

[Al]

Well Washington D.C. is pretty mild. Not much snow/cold. 10W-30 is probably fine, but that's only an opinion. I live 100 Mi. N and use 10W and 5W.

I would suggest changine filters at 5K-perhaps you are bypassing your filter. Some of your iron may just be a function of the car. It will be interesting to see your next report.

Also you said:
No, I generally wait until car is warmed up before do any aggressive driving.
We have had discussions on this in the past. The oil is not warmed up until several minutes after the coolant temp is up to temperature. Also be careful not to lug the engine.

 

[Robbie Alexander]

quote:

---

Originally posted by zoomzoom:
hm... I thought that hi lead numbers would be coming more due to the inadeqate protection of 30 weight oil at higher RPM's rather then cold starts...
Am I wrong about this?

---

Stop pulling your hair out. Youre okay, the oil is fine, the numbers are not too high, yeah lead is on the rise, in a Diesel theys be almost abnormal but gas you still have a ways to go before you's have to be concerned.
Your numbers are good. I have had over a hundred thousand miles on now a 381K engine that have had numbers here and there that are high or very high.

The main thing is that 1. Youre okay. and
2. You are taking steps to fix the problems
But you have to remember that THIS is just A TEST
and you need to see a TREND forming before you have something to be concerned about.

 

[buster]

I would give the 10w-30 a try and maybe mix in a qt of 15w-50. You might need a thicker viscosity or an oil with more ZDDP.

 

[shortyb]

quote:

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Originally posted by Patman:
Even if it's getting down to around 10-15F overnight, the 5w30 will flow better than the 10w30. Sure the 10w30 will still do ok and the engine will still start, it's just that the 5w30 would flow just a little bit better and you'd hear the starter motor turning over easier.

---

Agreed. I thought that the slightly "thinner" 5W would be less desirable than the "thicker" 10W at temp. Splitting hairs, I know

. I think Al's suggestions work best all around for anyone that may be afraid of accelerated wear. As said, get some trending for the UOAs. The Pb is elevated, yes, but nothing to pull the alarms for just yet IMHO.

 

[Patman]

Most 5w30 synthetics are created so well nowadays that they are identical to their 10w30 counterparts at operating temperature though.

Like I've said before, it's almost like 10w30 is becoming obsolete, at least with synthetics. (I'd still recommend 10w30 dino over 5w30 dino in warm weather though)

 

[buster]

quote:

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Most 5w30 synthetics are created so well nowadays that they are identical to their 10w30 counterparts at operating temperature though.

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True, but for some reason it seems Mobil 1 10w-30 does a better job. Not sure why. Mobil's website says its a higher viscosity but in reality it's almost identical.