Redline Oil 5w30 -- 5,005 miles -- 07 Civic Si
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OVERKILL
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That's what I was asking. So you are doing a compression bump, serious head work and a pile of other stuff to get there. Makes a bit more sense then
OVERKILL
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I hear ya. I went from stock (~170RWHP) to 270RWHP over the course of a weekend when I did a mild H/C/I on my Mustang. That was a big jump.
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: Artem
Nice bump in power. I wish i could increase the power 100hp with a few simple mods. I'd need a supercharger or turbo for that. Haha
I just discovered my M5 can make 370 to the tires with a freakin' set of headers and a tune. I almost had a stroke.
Regarding the 100HP:
The 5.0L had pretty awful factory heads. And a pretty sucktacular factory intake. That's how you end up with a 302ci engine making 225HP. So swapping out those components for some better ones.... Yeah, big gains.
Nice bump in power. I wish i could increase the power 100hp with a few simple mods. I'd need a supercharger or turbo for that. Haha
I just discovered my M5 can make 370 to the tires with a freakin' set of headers and a tune. I almost had a stroke.
Regarding the 100HP:
The 5.0L had pretty awful factory heads. And a pretty sucktacular factory intake. That's how you end up with a 302ci engine making 225HP. So swapping out those components for some better ones.... Yeah, big gains.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted By: Artem
Well yea, they had to detune that beast to prevent it from having TOO MUCH power.
LOL!
So are you going aftermarket cams and stuff or is there a different trim level vehicle that you "borrow" the cams from that work better for the modified app?
Well yea, they had to detune that beast to prevent it from having TOO MUCH power.
LOL!
So are you going aftermarket cams and stuff or is there a different trim level vehicle that you "borrow" the cams from that work better for the modified app?
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: Artem
No i'm definitely going with some REAL power cams. Stage 2 most likely. OEM cams are only good for warranty.
What is a "stage 2" camshaft? I've heard this terminology before and I know there are a few (not many) who use this terminology in the domestic realm but I always thought it was too vague.
For example Trick Flow made three "stages" of camshafts for the 302. TFS1, TFS2, TFS3. All three are "wilder" than stock, with progressively more aggressive profiles the higher you move up.
However, there are thousands of different combinations of lobe profiles, ramp rates, duration, lift....etc that will yield vastly different results depending on the combination. A boosted application often benefits from negative overlap and exhaust bias for example (in many applications).
So while companies like Trickflow "dumb it down" by offering three "stages" of cams for the 302, you are almost universally better served by going to with a cam from Comp if you want something OTS, or getting one spec'd by a cam grinder for your specific application.
The cam I had ground for my 302 had negative overlap, relatively high lift for a street motor (550+) but was rather tame on the duration front.
Does somebody make a specific set of cams for the group of parts you are putting together by chance?
No i'm definitely going with some REAL power cams. Stage 2 most likely. OEM cams are only good for warranty.
What is a "stage 2" camshaft? I've heard this terminology before and I know there are a few (not many) who use this terminology in the domestic realm but I always thought it was too vague.
For example Trick Flow made three "stages" of camshafts for the 302. TFS1, TFS2, TFS3. All three are "wilder" than stock, with progressively more aggressive profiles the higher you move up.
However, there are thousands of different combinations of lobe profiles, ramp rates, duration, lift....etc that will yield vastly different results depending on the combination. A boosted application often benefits from negative overlap and exhaust bias for example (in many applications).
So while companies like Trickflow "dumb it down" by offering three "stages" of cams for the 302, you are almost universally better served by going to with a cam from Comp if you want something OTS, or getting one spec'd by a cam grinder for your specific application.
The cam I had ground for my 302 had negative overlap, relatively high lift for a street motor (550+) but was rather tame on the duration front.
Does somebody make a specific set of cams for the group of parts you are putting together by chance?
Originally Posted By: addyguy
It will be interesting to see how the Amsoil Euro 5W-30 does in this engine - you going to go 5k on that one, or your usual 3k?
I will sample @ 3k for comparison purposes and see if i can go up to 5k for further comparison vs Redline Oil.
The relatively low starting TBN of the Euro formula has me a bit concerned. I'm sure the oil won't be good for much further use after the Si is done with it but it should be good while in the Si... i think.
It will be interesting to see how the Amsoil Euro 5W-30 does in this engine - you going to go 5k on that one, or your usual 3k?
I will sample @ 3k for comparison purposes and see if i can go up to 5k for further comparison vs Redline Oil.
The relatively low starting TBN of the Euro formula has me a bit concerned. I'm sure the oil won't be good for much further use after the Si is done with it but it should be good while in the Si... i think.
There are companies that make Cams to support their own performance modifications for the specific engine platform but for the most part, as much as stage 1 from company A will vary in aggressiveness from stage 1 from company B, they are all a step up from OEM in small stages. That's how i see it.
OVERKILL
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Originally Posted By: Artem
There are companies that make Cams to support their own performance modifications for the specific engine platform but for the most part, as much as stage 1 from company A will vary in aggressiveness from stage 1 from company B, they are all a step up from OEM in small stages. That's how i see it.
Is there anybody that does custom grinds?
I mean, for the amount of money you sound like you are going to be tossing at this engine in mods, I would think it would make sense to get the most out of it possible by way of a set of cams ground specifically for the parts you are putting together.
There are companies that make Cams to support their own performance modifications for the specific engine platform but for the most part, as much as stage 1 from company A will vary in aggressiveness from stage 1 from company B, they are all a step up from OEM in small stages. That's how i see it.
Is there anybody that does custom grinds?
I mean, for the amount of money you sound like you are going to be tossing at this engine in mods, I would think it would make sense to get the most out of it possible by way of a set of cams ground specifically for the parts you are putting together.
There's no need for a custom set. My after market parts are the same as any other brand made for this car, so the cams are pretty much already designed for the I/H/E (intake, header, exhaust) combo of parts.
The cams will also work wonders with a 2.4L bottom end and will work perfectly with the 2.0L stock block.
If you want more aggressive cams, you can move up to the stage 3, etc, etc.
If you turbo or supercharge the engine, there are different Turbo Cams available to make full use of the turbo or supercharger.
The cams will also work wonders with a 2.4L bottom end and will work perfectly with the 2.0L stock block.
If you want more aggressive cams, you can move up to the stage 3, etc, etc.
If you turbo or supercharge the engine, there are different Turbo Cams available to make full use of the turbo or supercharger.
Hey guys, does anyone have any ideas why the TAN has been steadily risings with each new UOA? Seems like the acid contents in my engine is rising for some unknown reason... or am i wrong?
I was planning on recycling this oil into my 98 Camry but even though the TBN is still good, IMO, the high TAN has me uneasy running the oil any longer then maybe an extra 1,000 miles. I have a good 1,500 road trip coming up with the Camry and i'm debating on what to do.
I don't know much about TAN and at which point the oil becomes too acidic.
The only thing i know is the rule that when TAN crosses TBN, it's time to go.
Help...
I was planning on recycling this oil into my 98 Camry but even though the TBN is still good, IMO, the high TAN has me uneasy running the oil any longer then maybe an extra 1,000 miles. I have a good 1,500 road trip coming up with the Camry and i'm debating on what to do.
I don't know much about TAN and at which point the oil becomes too acidic.
The only thing i know is the rule that when TAN crosses TBN, it's time to go.
Help...
There is some great info in this thread that may help you better understand UOA results for ester based oils (like redline).
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1583780
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1583780
I very dislike high levels of Lead and Tin in latest UOA made by topicstarter.
You seem to be doing very short OCI's for some reason and the Amsoil figures for Lead are a lot lower than the Redline ones. The Fe figures are too low to figure out, but the Lead is not good for such a short OCI.
It would make sense to go back to the Amsoil if it is an oil you feel happy with and double the OCI. Redline has far too much Moly to allow room for enough detergents and dispersants, so Amsoil or any of the major brand synthetics will last longer as a result. (700 compared with between 50 and 200ppm for a normal oil)
It would make sense to go back to the Amsoil if it is an oil you feel happy with and double the OCI. Redline has far too much Moly to allow room for enough detergents and dispersants, so Amsoil or any of the major brand synthetics will last longer as a result. (700 compared with between 50 and 200ppm for a normal oil)
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