Redline + Ford Modular 4.6L

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OiledMustangGT

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Mar 26, 2004
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Louisiana
04 Ford Mustang GT 4.6L SOHC 5spd, very hot weather 80-100*F ambient temps., 60/40 city/hwy

Driven slightly "hard" (gotta romp on it a couple times a week
smile.gif
)

Currently I have in M1 5W-30 and a purolator pureone filter which I put in at 500mi.
I was thinking of probably changing it around 5k (OK?). When I change it I was thinking of what to use. I recently noticed my Advanced autoparts started carrying redline engine oil.
I have searched the forums and I have heard redline is superior to M1.

I can get 5W-20 or 5W-30 Redline at my store. Which would be better for my application? and Could I run 10K intervals with Redline and be safe w/ mabey a filter change at 5k intervals? What is a good filter to be used with Redline? I usually use purolator filters.

Thanks, sorry for the long post, but wanted to include all the details
 
Why not M1 0w-20? It is posting some very impressive results in vehicles that call for 5w-20.

Whether Redline, M1, Amsoil, whatever....the only way you should go to 10K would be to sample at 5K and send it in for analysis (for the first 10K interval). If it looks good and the lab or Terry give it the OK then go for it. I wouldn't just jump right to 10K without at least one 5K sample with that oil.
 
...and use a Motorcraft (FL-820S?) filter and save yourself $3 over the price of a Pure 1. Its essentially the same filter for only $2.77 at walmart.
 
stick with the 5w30.

I run that in my mod motor truck and it works great. I run mobil1 5w30 and the motorcraft fl820s filter and all is well.

The mod motor is a tank it will last forever.

My buddy has a luxury livery service and he has a late 90's lincoln with a mod motor with 320k miles on it and the thing still runs good. Burns a little oil but runs.


JH
 
Redline makes good stuff, but there are other excellent synthetics available. As far as redline goes, I would run 5k and do a UOA and have terry read it. Terry is the only one who can properly interpret reports on redline, due to the POE base and the powerful additive package it contains. Where do you reside? (you may want to put it in your profile, as it helps give recommendations). There is no reason not to go with a 5w20. The 20 weights are showing phenomenal results in UOA on vehicles that call for them.
smile.gif
 
since you're considering spending redline level of dough, you sound like a prime candidate for the new Mobil 1 R.

i just bought 5 gallons of synergyn LTS 3w30 for my vette, but it will be a while before i have a UOA from that.

-michael
 
That stuff is 8 bucks a quart. I'd run it longer than 5K, that's for sure. Also, I wonder just how long advanced is going to carry it. When they don't sell lots of it (The Walmart Hypothesis) they may quit carrying it.
 
Use whichever grade, 5w30 or 5w20, that floats your boat. I haven't seen any results that scream 5w20 is no good in the 4.6. If 5w30 makes you more comfortable, run that. Personally, I'm running 5w20 in my '99 F150 with the 4.6, and I am more than happy with the results.

Redline can be a tricky beast to interpret what is going on! I'll ditto using Terry's services to get a good analysis of what is happening if you go the redline route!
 
quote:
Originally posted by Schmoe:
That stuff is 8 bucks a quart. I'd run it longer than 5K, that's for sure. Also, I wonder just how long advanced is going to carry it. When they don't sell lots of it (The Walmart Hypothesis) they may quit carrying it.
Click to expand...
MyOilShop carries it all the time and it's located at all our front doors when the UPS driver rings. Delivered cost is about $7.65/quart and in 2-case lots, $6.95. IMO it's worth every penny.

I run mine about 11,000 miles in contrast to Porsche's 20,000-change recommendations.
 
69 Riv GS, thats one of the best oil filter tests around. Very clever calculating the flow rate AND pore size... Unbelieveable for a backyard job!!

Hmm im starting to reconsider K&N filters now, since they are quite poor in terms of filtration...
 
quote:
Originally posted by Leo:
Hmm im starting to reconsider K&N filters now, since they are quite poor in terms of filtration...
Click to expand...
cool.gif
My UOA's comparing K&N and Mobil 1 filters, both with M1 oil at 5k OCI, were nearly identical.
 
My UOAs show low wear numbers even with a K&N oil filter. I honestly don't think that sub 20 micron filtration extends the life of most hard driven engines. Flow is more critical.
 
I agree with mikep and FL-400S. If your car is an '04, the recommended oil is 5w-20 anyway. The Mobil 1 0w-20 is reported to be an excellent oil, and Motorcraft filters are hard to beat. You could do a UOA at 4-5k miles and, dependant upon the results, may end up saving alot of money over the Redline.

cool.gif
 
quote:
Originally posted by Patman:
My UOAs show low wear numbers even with a K&N oil filter. I honestly don't think that sub 20 micron filtration extends the life of most hard driven engines. Flow is more critical.
Click to expand...
Same thinking here. Splitting hairs over a 10 micron, 15 micron or 20 micron filter means little to nothing to me. Give me the 20 micron filter and good flow vs. restrictive, super filtering media anyday.
 
quote:
Originally posted by OiledMustangGT:
04 Ford Mustang GT 4.6L SOHC 5spd, very hot weather 80-100*F ambient temps., 60/40 city/hwy

Driven slightly "hard" (gotta romp on it a couple times a week
smile.gif
)

Currently I have in M1 5W-30 and a purolator pureone filter which I put in at 500mi.
I was thinking of probably changing it around 5k (OK?). When I change it I was thinking of what to use. I recently noticed my Advanced autoparts started carrying redline engine oil.
I have searched the forums and I have heard redline is superior to M1.

I can get 5W-20 or 5W-30 Redline at my store. Which would be better for my application? and Could I run 10K intervals with Redline and be safe w/ mabey a filter change at 5k intervals? What is a good filter to be used with Redline? I usually use purolator filters.

Thanks, sorry for the long post, but wanted to include all the details
Click to expand...
I've been running RL 5W30 in my slightly modified 2003 Mutstang GT, and aside from all the propaganda regarding the effectivness of the 20 weight oils, I made a conscious decision. The decision is that I would stay with a tried and true oil viscocity and a top notch oil.

We also have a 97 F-150 Lariat w/ over 210,000 miles, and we've been using Mobil 1 10W30. The engine configuration is slightly different; hence the 10W30.

One thing you need to know is that Red Line D4 ATF (Mercon V) is not good for your T-3650 tranny. The synchro rings are carbon fiber, and RL makes these rings brittle. I know it's wierd, but a lot of teh Mustang folks on www.mustangworld.com are using GM Synchromesh manual transmission fluid in their T-3650 trannys. GM Synchromesh takes the characteristic 1-2 shift grind out of the picture completely. Don't use Red Line in the T-3650 tranny.

As far as engine oil change interval, you don't want to mess with extended change intervals while on warranty. Change the Red Line out at 5,000 mile intervals as per manufacturer. After that time, you may go from 10,000-18,000 miles on Red Line w/ no problem.

Make sure you use a Motorcraft FL-820S filter; otherwise, Ford can blame engine failure on the oil filter.

Take my advice at face value, but do some research on your own. Congrats. on the Stang. They are an exceptional vehcile.

-Matt

[ April 30, 2004, 02:03 PM: Message edited by: mf150 ]
 
mf150
cheers.gif


yeah, I have the well known 1-2 grind, dealer said it was "normal".

Where can I pickup that gear lube and filters? the stealership?
 
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