Redline D6 vs Valvoline Maxlife ATF in Hyundai 6spd, Valvoline is better.

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I've used both for about equal amounts of miles, and I have to say, Valvoline holds up better in shift quality, and results in much less (trace amounts) metal swarf on the magnet. Both were done as drain and fills (three total for redline) every 20k, Valvoline Maxlife was always bright cherry red after 20k, Redline started darkening significantly and always left quite a bit of fuzz on the magnet. Maxlife never really seemed to degrade much as it aged, D6 started getting really choppy and rough about 15k miles in.

Sticking with Maxlife from here on out, still can't believe $18 fluid significantly outperforms $60 fluid, whatever magic juice they're putting in it just works wonderfully.
 
I changed over to Maxlife at 45,000 miles in my wife's Hyundai Santa Fe XL w/the 6 speed. Shifts are a tad softer but no ill effects. I do think any thing less than 40,000 miles is a BITOG "money flush" which your comment describing visually how the Maxlife looks after 20,000 miles seems to confirm.
 
still can't believe $18 fluid significantly outperforms $60 fluid
Rarely will people pay for what they believe has to be a "better" fluid and then admit they were wrong. I'm sure Redline is a fine fluid and works great for many people too. They are definitely pricing their fluid for the boutique market plus they're so much smaller than Valvoline so they'll never compete on price anyway.
 
Was the Redline done before or after the Maxlife?
After but I basically replaced it via running 12 quarts through the system. I just yesterday dumped 5 quarts of the RL and refilled with Maxlife and it shifts smooth as butter again.

Honestly I think Maxlife is even better than the OE fluid, but myself and other Hyundai owners have said the same thing.
I changed over to Maxlife at 45,000 miles in my wife's Hyundai Santa Fe XL w/the 6 speed. Shifts are a tad softer but no ill effects. I do think any thing less than 40,000 miles is a BITOG "money flush" which your comment describing visually how the Maxlife looks after 20,000 miles seems to confirm.
Yes it is softer, but I think based on the metal debris on the plug on ML vs the firmer OEM and RL says it's a good thing.
 
I agree with everything you said about maxlife. It shifts better in every way after I dumped the factory fluid at 30k. I did two d&f. It shifts smoother but the down shifts aren't harsh and engagement is quick. The TSB reflash also helped alot with the 2-1 downshift harshness when slowing. There is still some flare when stone cold but it goes away after a couple of gear shift cycles so I go easy.
 
I agree with everything you said about maxlife. It shifts better in every way after I dumped the factory fluid at 30k. I did two d&f. It shifts smoother but the down shifts aren't harsh and engagement is quick. The TSB reflash also helped alot with the 2-1 downshift harshness when slowing. There is still some flare when stone cold but it goes away after a couple of gear shift cycles so I go easy.
Have you checked the level?
 
I'm yet to see an application where Maxlife was at fault for bad shifting in a reasonable application. This is across hyundai/kia, ford, gm, zf8, toyota and nissan autos.
 
Well, I will say I used Idemitsu TLS-LV on my gf's 2018 camry 2.5 but not because I was afraid Maxlife wouldnt work. I only did so because it's a relatively newer transmission and I hadn't seen many experiences with Maxlife (compared to the H/K 6 speed that have been around a while) . Also, since apparently max life went up in price at walmart and with 20% off at napa, the gap was only about $1 a quart. Russian oil analysis shows TLS-LV as being very, very identical to WS, and I was not paying 12.80 a quart at the toyota dealer knowing this. I also want to be "left alone" with regards to this car because this is her daily and she puts alot of miles. That being said, I'm glad I did the fluid change. Very surprising that the AISIN toyota transmission last so long on factory fluid, but I've read they use some computer logic to compensate for the wear particles gunking up the fluid.
 
Yes, multiple times but it did the same exact thing with the factory fluid. Even used a scan tool to get temps and everything
Well, the odd thunk when decelerating downshifting is just a Hyundai transmission thing. New fluid seems to reduce the occurrence, but I have no clue what causes it. Most of the time I experience it is when driving in stop and go traffic where I accelerate, get up to 4th or 5th gear, and then have to abruptly slow back down. My theory is abrupt partial TC lock being disengaged when the TCM wasn't anticipating it. Predictable acceleration and deceleration almost never causes it.

If you watch your tachometer, you'll notice that sometimes the TCC isn't engaged during varying non-highway speeds (the RPM will drop to 1000-1500 if you let off the gas) but once you reach a steady cruising speed between 25-45mph it will lock partially and letting off the gas only results in an 80 or so rpm drop. Above 45mph it fully locks.
 
Well, the odd thunk when decelerating downshifting is just a Hyundai transmission thing. New fluid seems to reduce the occurrence, but I have no clue what causes it. Most of the time I experience it is when driving in stop and go traffic where I accelerate, get up to 4th or 5th gear, and then have to abruptly slow back down. My theory is abrupt partial TC lock being disengaged when the TCM wasn't anticipating it. Predictable acceleration and deceleration almost never causes it.

If you watch your tachometer, you'll notice that sometimes the TCC isn't engaged during varying non-highway speeds (the RPM will drop to 1000-1500 if you let off the gas) but once you reach a steady cruising speed between 25-45mph it will lock partially and letting off the gas only results in an 80 or so rpm drop. Above 45mph it fully locks.
Hm, I've never had that issue 🤷‍♂️ The TSB fixed 2-1 hard downshift below 5mph. It felt like a downshift in a manual trans when you don't rev match, as if the gear was being forced in. TCU flash fixes that completely. Otherwise it's a great car.
 
Rarely will people pay for what they believe has to be a "better" fluid and then admit they were wrong
ah yes the first rule in the thirst for truth with automotive fluids ...they are all bad for you
 
Don't bother with either one, you are wasting your time and money. Just get Hyundai OEM SP4-M. It may cost more but it works correctly. In fact the difference is astounding - and I've tried absolutely everything including Maxlife and Redline, also Eneos, Liqui-Moly, Idemitsu and several others.
 
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