Redline D6 -03 Accord w lubeguard black/magnefine

[spiderbypass]

My wife has a 2003 Honda Accord LX with the 2.4 engine with 100 K miles on the car. I recently flushed Redline D4 (there is a used oil analysis of this compared with previous run of Amsoil ATF in transmission analysis section) and exchanged with Redline D6 in her transmission at the Honda Service Center. The Honda Service Department also installed a new Honda inline transmission filter ($23) at my request and stated: "I have never changed one of these in my ten years here." The service department also installed a magnefine filter at my request for no extra charge and stated: "this filter seems well constructed and seems like a good idea because there have been problems with the Accord transmissions." I also had the Amsoil 0w20 oil changed with Amsoil 0w30 SSO. The service center took a sample of the oil and I posted this on here as well.

My wife noticed a difference in shifting characteristics immediately the next day. She is an aggressive left-lane driver and felt the car did not respond as quickly and felt a bit more sluggish than before. SHe felt there was a slight delay in response time with downshifting. I also felt a slight difference in the car. The shifts felt "tighter" and the car felt a heavier and did not rev as quickly with the changed made. My dilemma is that my impulsive nature led me to make so many changes at once.
1. The nonrecommended Redline D-6, although I talked with Dave a few times at Redline and while he recommended Redline D4, he emphasized the viscosity difference as being the main difference between D6 and D4-and did allude to different base stocks. However, he did not indicate different frictional aspects of the fluid.
2). I changed the Honda inline filter and put in the Magnefine filter from the coolant back to the transmission. Honda rechecked this a few times and were satisfied the filter was pointed in the correct direction.
3) I used a higher viscosity oil, which may have influenced revving ability. I did have Amsoil 0w30 TSO in her car about two years ago and felt no difference. The only oil I put in the Honda, which felt sluggish was Castrol GC and that was in my Honda which has a manual transmission.

I decided to add lubeguard Black-HFM a few ounces at a time to see if there would be an improvement in overall shifting feel and performance of the car. I ended up putting in nearly 9 ounces ounces and the car does feel more responsive with shifting. I also did a test of downshifting into second gear to make sure car decelerated and the clutch held, which it did. I have the service manual and the shifting points match up with the one's listed in service manual. The car also holds the gear when accelerating rapidly and displays smooth shifting feel. I wonder if Redline D6 has greater dynamic friction than Redline D4. The car still does not feel quite as quick as it did with other combination of Redline D4 and Amsoil 0w20, and am wondering if motor oil made a difference. I would be interested in any feedback or questions people have as the saying: "a little knowledge is dangerous" applies to my decision making in this.

The good news is my wife is talking with me again as she took my credit card and placed me on a revamped budget that does not include buying more oils or transmission fluids. Luckily-I was able to purchase a case of #204 Schaeffer's ATF before the budget cuts if wanted to change out Redline D6.

 

[EricZoom]

I use Redline D4, and Amsoil 0w20 in my Mazda, and have had great results with both of them. I also put Lubeguard Red in my car, with the combination of D4, and a cooler, and the trans seems to shift and feel great. My ATX (Jatco) is also known for certain heat and shifting issues. As far as oil, I found the SSO 0w30 also made my car feel sluggish. My Mazda Duratec seems to run much smoother and peppier with the thinner oils, with either M1 or ASM 0w20.

 

[spiderbypass]

I saw this post on a Nissan forum by a gentleman named: Texasoil. I found it informative with regards to static and dynamic friction.
Lubeguard red & black


Red is synthetic sperm oil (can't kill whales anymore) and is used to smooth out the final engagement shock (lock-up.) It is a friction modified that lowers the coefficient of static friction relative to the dynamic friction. Dynamic is when the clutch faces are slipping past each other--static is when they are stationary.

Black lubeguard increases static friction and dynamic friction coefficients, raising the locked-up torque handling capacity of the clutch unit (results in 'firmer' feeling shifts)

The Q45 TCU/ECU backs off on torque during the shift to give smooth shifts. For a given tranny condition/temp/oil condition, one can 'tune' the fluid characteristics somewhat. Factory settings are a compromise between smoothness, durability, and performance.

Ideally you would get a continuous flow of driveshaft torque under all throttle and speed conditions, with no noticeable jerk or sag. Hard to achieve in this world.

You want to be careful with harsh shifts--they stress the metal parts and clutch faces (and driveline parts) more than intended. This is not to say they will fail (right away), but incremental wear/damage is unavoidable with hard shifts.

Regarding Lubeguard. (No comment on Nissan D fluid since I am ignorant of the specific characteristics) I AM knowledgeable on DEXRON (all previous and present versions) and the 'type F' fluids.

Q45's through version III for certain were designed for the friction characteristics of DEXRON. This fluid had friction modifiers that shallow the slope of the torque vs slip curve as the clutches approach 'lock-up'. AND these fluids are suitable for those cars that ALLOW continuous slip of the 'lock-up' torque convertor to smooth things out.

Some transmissons are designed for different fluids, ones that have either no drop in torque transfer as slip goes to zero, or even fluids that have HIGHER torque transmission ability as slip drops to zero. This characteristic is called HIGH STATIC FRICTION. Dexron fluids have HIGH DYNAMIC FRICTION.

If youput a 'high static' fluid in a transmission designed for 'high dynamic' fluid, you will significantly increase clutch lock-up shock--even to the point of shearing the metal driving lugs on the clutch plates. You may even feel a 'firmer shift', but that is easily confused and misnamed. You can also get a 'firmer [faster] shift with higher viscosity fluid or increased oil pressure in the transmission operating circuit. 'Firmer shift' and 'clutch lock-up shock' are different processes and not necessarily coincident. You can have 'soft shifts' caused by worn clutches, leaking clutch pack seals, low oil pressure, and STILL have 'lock-up shock.' You can have fast, firm shifts and still have smooth , no jerk clutch lock-up.

I recomend AGAINST adding Lubegard BLACK to Q45 transmissions in an attempt to get 'firmer shifts'. All you are doing is increasing the momentary torque loading( lock-up shock) on the metal parts in the tranny and can brak some real expensive parts. This transmission IS NOT designed for harsh shifts and WILL break.

IF your Q45 tranny has slow, lazy shifts at moderate and more throttle openings, slips on shifting (engine speeds up), then either your throttle position switch is misadjusted, the transmission is worn and leaking internally, the oil filter is plugged, the fluid burned (worn-out), the clutch linings coated with varnish (from infrequent oil changes) or the valve body is malfunctioning for some reason.


Change the fluid. Add one pint of Berrymans Transmission cleaner and seal conditioner--run it easy for a week, re-drain and refill with DEXRON III --not synthetic--most DEXRON III fluids already have as much as 50% 'synthetic' base oil in them to meet the very low temperature viscosity requirements. What you are trying to do is clean off the clutches, clean out the valve body, and renew the friction modifier additive package. IF the shifts are not velvety smooth on lock-up, add one pint of LUBEGUARD RED. Do not confuse 'smooth lock-up' with 'firm shifts'. DO NOT ADD LUBEGUARD BLACK trying to get 'firm shifts'. To get 'firmer shifts' you will need to increase the transmission 'line pressure'. There are after-market spring/parts kits to do this. Use at your own risk. You DO NOT want to create harsh clutch lock-up under any condition--the metal parts will not survive.