Redline and toyota's
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What is a "toyota/Mobil1 combo"?
Redline is fine but dang expensive unless you will be going over 10K+ OCI.
Redline is fine but dang expensive unless you will be going over 10K+ OCI.
You know Pablo, kind of like a "toyota/Amsoil combo".
Originally Posted By: Johnny
You know Pablo, kind of like a "toyota/Amsoil combo".
You want fries with that?
You know Pablo, kind of like a "toyota/Amsoil combo".
You want fries with that?
Originally Posted By: toyota62
Hi Guys. Redline in toyota's better than toyota/Mobil1 combo?
From an old post by Barkerman. What ever happened to Barkerman?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post1082506
"Red Line is a good daily driver oil and it just might make your engine last longer. We have several 300k+ cars around here that use nothing but Red Line and it's not that they are over 300k but that they are over 300k with no internal mechanical work and to a boroscope look like new inside. I know a few examples don't prove a point but they are a good indicator. One fellow delivers some kind of radio-active isotopes with his 78 Toyota pickup and has 510k miles on Red Line with nothing more than regular maintenance and about 4 water pumps. He also uses Frantz oil and fuel filters and a spin-on coolant filter with an anode. He is on the original camshaft and valves. I've done a compression check and it's withing 5% of new specs and the spread from high to low is 8psi. You can still see the hone marks at the bottom of the cylinders and there is only a cosmetic ridge at the top of the cylinders. Granted this series of Toyota 4 bangers is considered to be a good engine I think that Red Line is performing well. He started with Castrol 10w-30 with the new truck and a few years later after hanging around our shop switched to Red Line 10-30 and has graduated up to 20w-50 a couple of years ago. His oil consumption is 1 quart in 5k miles. Granted he is a careful driver because of his cargo and LA has no weather but I think he is doing well. He recently dropped a bundle in rebuilding the suspension front and back, complete brake job and replaced all the flexible brake lines, master cylinder, rear wheel cylinders and new calipers, including his second tranny rebuild for bearings and seals, no other hard parts also using Red Line MTL. He also had the seals replaced in the rear end and uses Red Line gear lube and uses that red colored Red Line CV2 grease in the grease fittings (yes it has fittings you grease with a hand gun). All this was his answer to the question of buying a new pickup or keeping the old one. I think it can be said that he likes the old one. The company he works for footed the bill for a complete repaint and upholstery job. We talked Yokohama into making him a screaming deal on some new Avid TRZ's. His only problem is that we can expect a letter from Congress about his disregard for the economy by not just junking his pickup and buying a new one. He is hoping that the new sound system including a CD player for his books on CD will be useful in his defense. But to those that think Red Line is only good for racing we think it performs well for commuting but is an expensive choice. Sorry for running on I just though this is an unusual case and you might be interested. "
Hi Guys. Redline in toyota's better than toyota/Mobil1 combo?
From an old post by Barkerman. What ever happened to Barkerman?
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...rue#Post1082506
"Red Line is a good daily driver oil and it just might make your engine last longer. We have several 300k+ cars around here that use nothing but Red Line and it's not that they are over 300k but that they are over 300k with no internal mechanical work and to a boroscope look like new inside. I know a few examples don't prove a point but they are a good indicator. One fellow delivers some kind of radio-active isotopes with his 78 Toyota pickup and has 510k miles on Red Line with nothing more than regular maintenance and about 4 water pumps. He also uses Frantz oil and fuel filters and a spin-on coolant filter with an anode. He is on the original camshaft and valves. I've done a compression check and it's withing 5% of new specs and the spread from high to low is 8psi. You can still see the hone marks at the bottom of the cylinders and there is only a cosmetic ridge at the top of the cylinders. Granted this series of Toyota 4 bangers is considered to be a good engine I think that Red Line is performing well. He started with Castrol 10w-30 with the new truck and a few years later after hanging around our shop switched to Red Line 10-30 and has graduated up to 20w-50 a couple of years ago. His oil consumption is 1 quart in 5k miles. Granted he is a careful driver because of his cargo and LA has no weather but I think he is doing well. He recently dropped a bundle in rebuilding the suspension front and back, complete brake job and replaced all the flexible brake lines, master cylinder, rear wheel cylinders and new calipers, including his second tranny rebuild for bearings and seals, no other hard parts also using Red Line MTL. He also had the seals replaced in the rear end and uses Red Line gear lube and uses that red colored Red Line CV2 grease in the grease fittings (yes it has fittings you grease with a hand gun). All this was his answer to the question of buying a new pickup or keeping the old one. I think it can be said that he likes the old one. The company he works for footed the bill for a complete repaint and upholstery job. We talked Yokohama into making him a screaming deal on some new Avid TRZ's. His only problem is that we can expect a letter from Congress about his disregard for the economy by not just junking his pickup and buying a new one. He is hoping that the new sound system including a CD player for his books on CD will be useful in his defense. But to those that think Red Line is only good for racing we think it performs well for commuting but is an expensive choice. Sorry for running on I just though this is an unusual case and you might be interested. "
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Originally Posted By: buster
No. 95% of most engines, especially Toyota/Honda don't even need synthetic. Redline is a great oil though.
Several Toyota engines in the past have been highly sludge prone, so I don't agree with your statement.
I would recommend a synthetic for both Honda and Toyota engines, but nothing exotic, just any synthetic that is API and manufacturer certified (and is a API energy saving formula).
No. 95% of most engines, especially Toyota/Honda don't even need synthetic. Redline is a great oil though.
Several Toyota engines in the past have been highly sludge prone, so I don't agree with your statement.
I would recommend a synthetic for both Honda and Toyota engines, but nothing exotic, just any synthetic that is API and manufacturer certified (and is a API energy saving formula).
Originally Posted By: sxg6
Why would you recommend synthetic for Honda engines? That's probably the one brand I would say is least likely to need synthetic.
many Honda engines (although not all) tend to get more HP per liter of displacement than most other engines.
I just don't get this obsession about how synthetic oil is a waste of money. Synthetic is a very, very small amount of money for most people, especially if one to use synthetics like Walmart SuperTech. For a 5-quart jug, we are talking about a difference that is less than the cost of one meal at McDonald's.
Now, I will admit, that for people who are barely making it at the moment (I was a poor student during one period in my life), or one has an older car, or one that uses a lot of oil, then maybe synthetic is not worth it. But for most people who own late model cars and intend to keep them past a 2-3 lease period, I just think it a very cheap insurance against a variety of potential engine problems. I was not a believer until my last car, which I kept for 11 years and used synthetic oil since the first oil change. Engine ran perfectly when I sold the car this January.
Why would you recommend synthetic for Honda engines? That's probably the one brand I would say is least likely to need synthetic.
many Honda engines (although not all) tend to get more HP per liter of displacement than most other engines.
I just don't get this obsession about how synthetic oil is a waste of money. Synthetic is a very, very small amount of money for most people, especially if one to use synthetics like Walmart SuperTech. For a 5-quart jug, we are talking about a difference that is less than the cost of one meal at McDonald's.
Now, I will admit, that for people who are barely making it at the moment (I was a poor student during one period in my life), or one has an older car, or one that uses a lot of oil, then maybe synthetic is not worth it. But for most people who own late model cars and intend to keep them past a 2-3 lease period, I just think it a very cheap insurance against a variety of potential engine problems. I was not a believer until my last car, which I kept for 11 years and used synthetic oil since the first oil change. Engine ran perfectly when I sold the car this January.
I had very good results using Redline in my 06 Tacoma 4.0 . I am still using it and plan on 8K OCIs, maybe 10K if the UOA's continue to stay looking good. Before running it in my toyota I had been using it in many GM vehicles for the last 15 years. Several tear downs convinced me the extra cost involved was well worth it.
In my opinion mobil 1 and Redline arent even in the same category. Redline is a much higher quality product. Is it needed for most daily drivers? No. RL is capable of extended drains contrary to some individuals here on BITOG. And its not "racing only oil". It comes down to this, are you willing to pay $9 per qaurt and have the product shipped or are you more likely to travel down to the closest wally world and pay $6-7 dollars for a product like Mobil 1 which is a great product but not quite RL? For me it was an easy decision and I am very happy with my decision to stay with redline.
On a side note I use many other oils including amsoil and by no means think RL is the end all of motor oils. However I do believe that they produce some of the best ATF's available and have had great luck with them in both of my Toyotas(D4 and D6).
In my opinion mobil 1 and Redline arent even in the same category. Redline is a much higher quality product. Is it needed for most daily drivers? No. RL is capable of extended drains contrary to some individuals here on BITOG. And its not "racing only oil". It comes down to this, are you willing to pay $9 per qaurt and have the product shipped or are you more likely to travel down to the closest wally world and pay $6-7 dollars for a product like Mobil 1 which is a great product but not quite RL? For me it was an easy decision and I am very happy with my decision to stay with redline.
On a side note I use many other oils including amsoil and by no means think RL is the end all of motor oils. However I do believe that they produce some of the best ATF's available and have had great luck with them in both of my Toyotas(D4 and D6).
I ran my 3.4L with Redline...great oil just like anything else out there.
Originally Posted By: Mark888
Originally Posted By: sxg6
Why would you recommend synthetic for Honda engines? That's probably the one brand I would say is least likely to need synthetic.
many Honda engines (although not all) tend to get more HP per liter of displacement than most other engines.
This is true, but that doesn't warrant the use of synthetic. UOA's have shown Honda engines to be fairly easy on oil.
Originally Posted By: sxg6
Why would you recommend synthetic for Honda engines? That's probably the one brand I would say is least likely to need synthetic.
many Honda engines (although not all) tend to get more HP per liter of displacement than most other engines.
This is true, but that doesn't warrant the use of synthetic. UOA's have shown Honda engines to be fairly easy on oil.
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