redline and easy driven cars

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quote:

Originally posted by sxg6:

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And its biggest liability is the polyolester base stock if the vehicle is driven little and sits for long periods.

what happens if not driven or sits long?


Esters are not as good with water as PAO's. But with dispersants and what not in the base oil..no one has proven it isn't any good in this area. Ane with the higher irons found with Mobil 1, its hard to trash RedLine here.

Rught now I have a 50/50 mix of Redline 5W-20 and 10W-30. My previous oils were Mobil 1, Schaeffer's Moly Pure Syn, Schaeffer's Blend and now Redline. Car is a bit quieter on startup and mpg appears up at least .5 mpg after 2500 miles. I intend to go 7500 miles at least on this charge.
 
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Ane with the higher irons found with Mobil 1, its hard to trash RedLine here.

Yeah, but with RL it's higher everything. With Mobil 1, it could be the Boron. And how do we know it's wear? I don't know why that excuse is only given to Redline. Plus, M1 holds it's TBN better and is 1/2 the cost. It's hard to knock Mobil 1 IMO.
 
In this application I would try to find a good CI-4 rated 10W30 like Delo 10W30. I would not even consider a yearly oil change in a vechile that is not driven regularly. The best way to deal with condensation in a car or truck that is seldom driven is to change to oil 3-4 times a year. If you need a 40wt then look at Delvac 15W40,Delo 15W40 youcan get them for $5-$6 a gallon at walmart and will work nicely in this engine.
 
quote:

Al:

quote:

Originally posted by sxg6:


Esters are not as good with water as PAO's. But with dispersants and what not in the base oil..no one has proven it isn't any good in this area.


In general polyolesters, and diesters to a certain extent, tend to break down in the presence of water. Polyolesters also don't exhibit good anti-rust properties. The manufacturers of polyolester base stocks say that, including Mobil which makes both poyolesters and polyalphaolefins. It's how the tail is on the cat.

In a jet engine, or a race engine, or a hard-driven street engine these aren't really issues. But low mileage drivers that build up a lot of condensation in the engines won't get any benefit from the unique properties of polyolester. They will get more corrosion than they will with mineral oil or polyalpholefin-based lubricants.


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quote:

Originally posted by Marty:

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Al:

quote:

Originally posted by sxg6:
[qb]
In a jet engine, or a race engine, or a hard-driven street engine these aren't really issues. But low mileage drivers that build up a lot of condensation in the engines won't get any benefit from the unique properties of polyolester. They will get more corrosion than they will with mineral oil or polyalpholefin-based lubricants.

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Well I'll be comparing it with Mobil 1. So we shall see. Perhaps I was one of the biggest bashers of RedLine here. And I certainly have no loyalities. But Mobil 1 other than the Shear Stability has generally (IMHO) been inferior to Amsoil.
 
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But Mobil 1 other than the Shear Stability has generally (IMHO) been inferior to Amsoil.

Al, why not sign up as a PC and use Amsoil then?
smile.gif
Other then Fe, which is higher with Mobil 1, I see nothing else about Amsoil to claim it's any better. In fact that has been the opinion of most on here so far.

Marty I completely agree with you. RL's street oils are built more for racing. It just doesn't seem to be a decent street oil IMO. Unless you have a Subaru or VW engine.

[ August 01, 2004, 06:02 PM: Message edited by: buster ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Marty:

In a jet engine, or a race engine, or a hard-driven street engine these aren't really issues. But low mileage drivers that build up a lot of condensation in the engines won't get any benefit from the unique properties of polyolester. They will get more corrosion than they will with mineral oil or polyalpholefin-based lubricants.


What about a car that is driven 4 days out of the week on average, but when it is driven, it's driven hard? I put on about 4000 miles in 4 months so far. Would you consider this a "low mileage driver"?
 
I haven't had any corrosion, and I've used Red Line in a street/strip vehicle.
pat.gif


PS-corrosion isn't a problem if you get your car up to running temp. at least once every two weeks.

[ August 02, 2004, 10:04 PM: Message edited by: mf150 ]
 
What about street driven vehicles in stop and go or highway, but are one of those high revving 4 cyl.?
I noticed these days some of the Japanese makes have cars that rev to 8 or 9k rpm in ways to squeeze out as much HP as they can from a 4 banger.
 
quote:

Originally posted by JohnBrowning:
In this application I would try to find a good CI-4 rated 10W30 like Delo 10W30. I would not even consider a yearly oil change in a vechile that is not driven regularly. The best way to deal with condensation in a car or truck that is seldom driven is to change to oil 3-4 times a year. If you need a 40wt then look at Delvac 15W40,Delo 15W40 youcan get them for $5-$6 a gallon at walmart and will work nicely in this engine.

The advice given by JohnBrowning has my vote.
 
quote:

Quick_lude:

quote:


In a jet engine, or a race engine, or a hard-driven street engine these aren't really issues. But low mileage drivers that build up a lot of condensation in the engines won't get any benefit from the unique properties of polyolester. They will get more corrosion than they will with mineral oil or polyalpholefin-based lubricants.


What about a car that is driven 4 days out of the week on average, but when it is driven, it's driven hard? I put on about 4000 miles in 4 months so far. Would you consider this a "low mileage driver"?


The issues with polyolester base lubricants involve water and seals.

Polyolester does not mix well with oil, does not protect as well as mineral or polyalphaolefin (PAO) oils against corrosion, and is not highly compatible with many types of seal materials.

In a race engine these issues aren't significant. In a jet engine or turbine, which is where most polyolesters are used, they aren't significant. In a car parked in the driveway with moisture in the crankcase they are.

Since I can get a PAO with a good additive package that for all practical purposes does everything Red Line does in a street engine, why should I take chances?

With that said, I do use Red Line. I have an air-cooled engine application where the engine is driven at a constant speed at a high load with a single crank seal that is compatible with polyolester. Moisture isn't a problem and the high film strength and high temperature properties of the polyolester can be utilized in the application.
 
Marty-

PAO is great, but as far as Red Line (polyol esters) not being compat. with seals...BS. The seals are taken into consideration with Red Line's chemistry. I have had no problem with the cars that I have used Red Line in.

Polyol Esters are a better basestock than PAOs, they are attracted to hot metals, which makes them more attractive to the stop-and-go traffic goer.

I would have a problem putting Red Line's Race oil in a street-driven car, but I wouldn't hesitate to put their street oil in my cars and trucks. That's why I do it.

PS- as long as your engine reaches operating temp. ast least once every two weeks, you will have no problem with polyol esters and water.
 
quote:

mf150:
PAO is great, but as far as Red Line (polyol esters) not being compat. with seals...BS. The seals are taken into consideration with Red Line's chemistry. I have had no problem with the cars that I have used Red Line in.

Polyol Esters are a better basestock than PAOs, they are attracted to hot metals, which makes them more attractive to the stop-and-go traffic goer. ....

PS- as long as your engine reaches operating temp. ast least once every two weeks, you will have no problem with polyol esters and water.


As far as seal compatibility goes, what you say is what Red Line says.

The seal manufacturers and the manufacturers of polyolester base stocks say otherwise.

Begin with:

http://www.ultracheminc.com/comp.htm

If you need a dozen or so more, I'll provide them.

Polyolesters are not interchangeable with PAO or mineral oils when it comes to seal materials. That's how the tail is on the cat. There's no magic chemistry available to Red Line that's not available to everyone else.

While polyolesters (and diesters) stick to metal, and hot metal, adding a bit of them to a PAO accomplishes the same thing.

As to esters (both polyolesters and diesters) and water, the single lubrication failure I've experienced in 30+ years using synthetics was a problem with an ester, water, and a clogged oil passage.

All Proof, a pioneer in synthetics, was a polyolester. They experienced a variety of problems with both seals and water.

Amsoil changed from a diester to a PAO for that reason.

Mobil 1, a manufacturer of both PAOs and polyolesters, uses the polyolesters in jet and turbine lubricants, and uses PAO for automobiles.

All that said, plenty of people are using Red Line and I believe they're a reputable company. I use Red Line in applications where it's appropriate.

I don't think a car driven rarely is one of those applications.

I don't think a car under warranty is one of those applications.

You may have another opinion.
 
quote:

Jason Troxell:
...You may have another opinion.

Glad you know that you are posting OPINION because it is certainly NOT fact. [/QB][/QUOTE]

I feel pretty comfortable that I can back up what I believe with documentation from the base stock manufacturers and seal manufacturers.

What constitutes a "fact", then?
 
quote:

Jason Troxell:

quote:

Originally posted by Marty:
...You may have another opinion.

Glad you know that you are posting OPINION because it is certainly NOT fact.


Here are the representations I made and some support for each:

Red Line uses a polyolester base:

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_motoroil.asp

Polyolester (POE) lubricants may hydrolyze in the presence of water:

http://www.arti-21cr.org/research/completed/exec-summaries/50035-es.pdf

http://www.msc.navy.mil/n7/ein/034ein.htm

Polyolester (POE) lubricants may present seal and gasket compatibility issues:

http://www.nyelubricants.com/literature/engineering_pdf/Engineering_Ref_Charts.pdf

Polyolester (POE) lubricants do not provide the anti-rust protection of a PAO:

http://www.arti-21cr.org/research/completed/exec-summaries/50035-es.pdf

http://www.msc.navy.mil/n7/ein/034ein.htm

Red Line is not an API licensee, which may present warranty issues for cars under warranty which require the use of an API SL rated oil:

http://api-ec.api.org/newsplashpage/index.cfm

If my facts are not in order, please let me know.


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