Redline 75w85 for BMW

[Titan]

Besides the differentials, Mini's 4WD uses a Haldex clutch which uses a
thin (~6 cSt) Haldex oil. I'd recommend changing it every 25 - 30 kmls.

View attachment 99057
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Mine is a 2019 JCW Countryman, and takes a slightly different part number on the differential fluid. It comes in a 500 mL container. 8322241352 is the part number. I was only able to get 375 mL out, so, I put 375 back in. I specifically did not fill it until fluid dripped out, as I was informed this is filled to a specific volume, not until it drips.

 

[BMW Dom]

informed this is filled to a specific volume, not until it drips.

That’s weird. doesn’t seem right

 

[Titan]

That’s weird. doesn’t seem right

Yeah. I checked at the dealership as well as several sites. They were very specific in the instructions. When taking out the fill plug, it was obvious the fluid level was lower than the bottom edge...significantly lower...and, no signs of any leaks anywhere. Gotta go with what they told me!

 

[930.engineering]

.
The Haldex unit isn't a differential. It's a (variable wet multiplate) clutch.
.

 

[Titan]

.
The Haldex unit isn't a differential. It's a (variable wet multiplate) clutch.
.

I'm not even sure this is a Haldex. It's described as a "Hang On Clutch" system, if that makes any difference.

 

[Titan]

I'm not even sure this is a Haldex. It's described as a "Hang On Clutch" system, if that makes any difference.

Something I just found: "While Haldex and other systems use hydraulic wet clutches with a pump to engage them, MINI’s All4 drive system uses a GKN-developed electromagnetic clutch. The result is said to be more efficient, lighter, and more compact in terms of design. The control unit is also fully integrated into the ABS and stability management systems, which is said to provide a quicker response. "

 

[CleanSump]

Titan, do the transfer case!
Shop around for a good price at FCP, ECS, etc. Some places have the BMW and Shell fluids at much less than the dealer. I put Ravenol from Blauparts in my X3 a couple of weeks ago. Great stuff at much less $ than the dealer. Didn't do any adaptation and it works great.

 

[Titan]

Titan, do the transfer case!
Shop around for a good price at FCP, ECS, etc. Some places have the BMW and Shell fluids at much less than the dealer. I put Ravenol from Blauparts in my X3 a couple of weeks ago. Great stuff at much less $ than the dealer. Didn't do any adaptation and it works great.

I'm having trouble finding transfer case fluid and instructions that are consistent. I think it's because mine is still fairly new, and apparently, things have changed with these cars lately. Here's one explanation:

https://blog.fcpeuro.com/hs-fs/hubfs/Images/Blog/active/20200807_GUIDE_AWD-SYSTEMS-EXPLAINED/12_MINI%20ALL4%20power%20diagram.jpg?width=1920&name=12_MINI%20ALL4%20power%20diagram.jpg

 

[E365]

I'm having trouble finding transfer case fluid and instructions that are consistent. I think it's because mine is still fairly new, and apparently, things have changed with these cars lately. Here's one explanation:

My two cents: I have a 2017 Clubman ALL4 with the same system as a Countryman ALL4 and have serviced all the driveline fluids.

Front “transfer box”/PTO and rear differential gear units are pretty simple “fill until overflowing” things. Front has a drain plug, but the rear only has a fill plug so you have to suck it out.

I use AMSOIL Severe Gear 75w-90 in the front transfer box/PTO and Mopar synthetic 70w-80 GL-5 in place of the insanely expensive BMW “G3” 70w-80 GL-5 for the rear differential.

But…. The official BMW TIS procedure for changing the “Haldex” (genericized) / HOC fluid is crazy.

You’re supposed to remove the exhaust, unbolt the driveshaft from the rear drive unit, attach ratchet straps to the inner CV axle bodies and loop over the rear subframe. Then unbolt the entire rear drive unit and rotate the forward end of the rear drive unit 90 degrees.

Then unbolt the Haldex unit (4 bolts) and remove. Drain Haldex unit and rotate/tumble the unit 360 degrees by-hand to get the fluid out of all the chambers inside. Reinstall Haldex unit and leave pointing downward.

Then refill unit with 520ml (+/- 50ml) of proper Haldex/HOC fluid at least at “room temperature” / 18C or warmer. It’s correct to say DO NOT fill until fluid runs out the fill hole.

“The oil filler plug on the reservoir cap is not a fill level control screw!” - BMW TIS

The final step says:
“Perform hang-on clutch oil bleeding routine.

Service function -> Drivetrain -> Longitudinal torque distribution -> Bleed

60 seconds waiting period

Repeat service function “bleeding routine”
———————

Or what I did was carefully suck fluid out the fill hole and get a good measurement on it. My notes say I got about 250ml doing that. Then refill with the exact same amount. I used Ravenol “AWD-H” Haldex-specific fluid. Done two winters in a very high snow/ice area and my AWD still works perfectly. About to do it again soon.

The VW guys say they’re supposed to do a bleeding routine too on their very-similar system. Sounds like most people just cycle the key a bunch of times and the pump will run/bleed itself through its normal startup cycles

I’m kicking myself for not checking the fluid level vs. the fill plug when I first did this. I’m kinda wondering if the “correct” fluid volume is so close to the fill plug that it wouldn’t even matter if you filled until it overflowed. That’s what the VW cars do

 

[Titan]

Exactly the info I was looking for! I don't have access to the TIS, so, thank you for those thorough instructions.

I also agree with your aspiration-measure-then-refill technique. In fact, I did that with the rear differential and I used a new fill plug as directed. But, the instructions I found said NOT to fill to overflowing the fill plug. Hmm. I did use the very expensive BMW "G3" 70w80 GL5 fluid...thankfully, it was only one container at nearly 80.00 per 500 mL! Best I recall I aspirated and replaced 350 mL.

If I tackle the rear GKN electronic-Haldex-Hang-On-Clutch unit, it's going to be drain-measure-replace technique. I'm just not interested enough to go through a Yoga-class for drivetrain parts procedure to get some fresh fluid in there!

I may do the transfer box up front, but, I'm also considering not keeping this car for it's entire useable lifespan, and selling it before it hits 100,000 miles. I only have 31,000 on it now. Plus, I'm really not hard on it. I run through a few curves quickly, but, I'm not abusing it or racing. The Original fluids would certainly survive the running conditions it sees as long as I'll own it, I simply like taking a bit of extra care with my vehicles. I've talked with many BMW club owners that have over 200,000 on their Original drivetrain fluids, and they are MUCH harder on their vehicles, and they report them to be running fine. If I were to decide to run mine more than 100,000 miles, I'd certainly change all these fluids!.

Thanks again for your time and effort!

 

[pgk83]

I don't believe in conspiracy plots and I don't think anyone is misleading or lying.

On BITOG we attempt to educate people so they can make educated choices.

Once one is provided the information concerning the SAE gear Grades, the actual viscosity needed, and the proper DI signature, then one can pick the gear lube(s) needed for his/her vehicle.

For example, here is but one of the many sources of information that can be found on BITOG by doing a Search.

Hi Guys,
I'm looking for transmission fluid for my 2014 Fiat 500L manual 6spd C635 type 110K miles. I know (C Series Transmission Fluid - Mopar (68092630AB))
fit but i bought PENNZOIL SYNCHROMESH MANUAL TRANSMISSION FLUID but i can't find Fiat 9.55550-MZ6 specification on the can. Or i need to bring it back and buy this LIQUI MOLY Top Tec MTF 5100 SAE 75W . And it's true i need to change 30-60K or after 2years?

Thank you