Redline 0w20 vs 5w20

OVERKILL

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Specs: 0w20: Visc 100C: 8.2 Visc 40C: 43 VI: 166 CCS: [email protected] HTHS: 2.7 Pour Point: -60C Flash Point: 216C NOACK: 9 5w20: Visc 100C: 9.1 Visc 40C: 55 VI: 145 CCS: [email protected] HTHS: 3.3 Pour Point: -45C Flash Point: 251C NOACK: 8 On paper, the cold properties of the 0w20 look superior. But the 5w20 looks more robust, especially given the 3.3 HTHS value. Thoughts, experiences with these two grades? I'm looking for winter oil, original plan was M1 0w40, but this Redline stuff has me REALLY intrigued.......
 
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Both are good oils, but the 5W has better numbers all around, except for the cold flow. But -45C is a very respectable cold pour number, for sure. You were planning on running a 40 grade oil in Canada during the winter? What's the cold pour number for this oil?
 
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Decided to step outside the Mobil box huh? (JUST KIDDING) Nothing wrong with M1 or trying something new! I would go with the 5W. It has better numbers all around and considering most people run Dino up here in the winter I think a PP of -45oC is way better than most use in our neck of the woods. On the other hand a HTHS of 2.7 is more than fine in your engines... So I'm kinda liking the 0w20 for the increased cold properties. But then what makes my mind go with the 5W is the comments I made about it plus the fact that you do many miles like me so I'm thinking the 5w would be better as you aren't doing short trips. I see the dilemma though.
 

OVERKILL

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Yeah, the -60C is ridiculous, but appeals to me the 2.7 HTHS is compared to PP 5w20's 2.6 HTHS, but that is for their 5w20. Redline's 5w20 holds a serious advantage here, as their 5w20 HTHS is higher than PP's 5w30! I run AMSOIL in my trike by the way ;\) Just love that M1 TDT. Which also has a -45C pour point. hate2work: M1 0w40: HTHS: 3.7 VI: 186 [email protected]: 78.3 [email protected]: 14 Flash Point: 230C Pour Point: -54C
 
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See I run Amsoil because of it's crazy good PP numbers because my Santa Fe likes to tick the lifters with anything else in our cold February weather. Now you have got me wanting to try the RL stuff again and I just kicked that itch. I had to wear a patch and everything! Maybe we should go halfsies and order some together! ;\)
 

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I'm actually pricing it out tomorrow, I'll let you know how I make out Oh, and the 5w20 is cheaper than the 0w20....
 
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 Originally Posted By: hate2work
Both are good oils, but the 5W has better numbers all around, except for the cold flow. But -45C is a very respectable cold pour number, for sure. You were planning on running a 40 grade oil in Canada during the winter? What's the cold pour number for this oil?
I run a 40wt all year round, UOA's are great...
 

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 Originally Posted By: Saab9-3
 Originally Posted By: hate2work
Both are good oils, but the 5W has better numbers all around, except for the cold flow. But -45C is a very respectable cold pour number, for sure. You were planning on running a 40 grade oil in Canada during the winter? What's the cold pour number for this oil?
I run a 40wt all year round, UOA's are great...
As per the other Redline thread, there are those of us who feel UOA's do not provide a whole lot of useful information about engine "wear". But are great for determining OCI and watching for fuel dilution, coolant leaks and the like.
 
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They are very different oils. The 5W-20 has been around for a while and is the same as RL's 5W-30 but with less VII. The VI is fairly low @ 145. Not a first choice as a Cdn winter oil in fact RL's new 0W-30 is a much better winter oil with a VI of 183. In fact at any temperature below 30C it is lighter. RL's 0W-20 is new and is the lightest member of their 0W range of oils. The base oils used are lighter than the older 5W-20 formulation. VI is 166. It is somewhat more expensive than the 5W-20 and with my RL supplier it is a special order; can take a couple of weeks to get. PP 0W-20 is an interesting oil with an even better VI of 175 but I don't even know if it is available here in Ontario.
 
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I used Redline 5w-20 in my subaru one winter and it was noticeably slower to crank at -20C than the previous winter, when I probably used Quaker State Winter blend 5w30.
 
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The 0w20 looks very tempting. It's only 8.2 cSt @ 100C and has a lower HT/HS for better fuel economy. Pour point is also better. I would use that in Canada.
 
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 Originally Posted By: JAG
If in doubt, mix the two oils in whatever ratio you want.
Better still, blend the 0W-20 and 0W-30 and still retain the "ridiculous" although I'd prefer to say academic -60 PP.
 
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What about the 0W-30? Vis @ 100°C, cSt: 10.9 Vis @ 40°C, cSt: 57 CCS Viscosity, Poise, @°C: 56 @ -35 HTHS Vis, cP @150°C: 3.2 Pour Point, °C: -60 Flash Point, °C: 218 NOACK: 9
 
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 Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I won't bother, you know what my answer will be lol. Which car is this going in?
What about RL 0W-30 with it's HTHS of 3.2 cP? Keep in mind we're talking the Great White North here. Off topic question; if you were restricted to a dino oil only, what vis oil would run in your TL?
 
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 Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
 Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I won't bother, you know what my answer will be lol. Which car is this going in?
What about RL 0W-30 with it's HTHS of 3.2 cP? Keep in mind we're talking the Great White North here. Off topic question; if you were restricted to a dino oil only, what vis oil would run in your TL?
Not a straight 30 like I've been running. I would run a 10w-30 most likely just because my climate is so mild. 32F to 110F. Though I'll admit I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the 20wts if a great flowing synthetic 10w-30 wasn't an option.
 
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 Originally Posted By: BuickGN
 Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
 Originally Posted By: BuickGN
I won't bother, you know what my answer will be lol. Which car is this going in?
What about RL 0W-30 with it's HTHS of 3.2 cP? Keep in mind we're talking the Great White North here. Off topic question; if you were restricted to a dino oil only, what vis oil would run in your TL?
Not a straight 30 like I've been running. I would run a 10w-30 most likely just because my climate is so mild. 32F to 110F. Though I'll admit I wouldn't be so quick to dismiss the 20wts if a great flowing synthetic 10w-30 wasn't an option.
So you would agree a syn 20wt; particularily a high performance PAO/POE syn like RL should provide less wear than a 30wt dino?
 
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