I have spent more hours than I care to admit reading about oils. This site is very helpful, but have some questions still. To give a little background on where I'm coming from. I have a car with 100k miles on it. It has consumed oil from day 1. I have followed the minder and changed oil at around 9-10k using PAO oil (Royal Purple). Recently I noticed the oil consumption had increased and it could be due to oil rings clogged as has been documented in other cars. Oil consumption is a known issue with this engine (2.4L Honda). Short of doing an engine flush, I found that ester based oils actually clean a dirty engine whereas PAO may not. So, read alot and decided to get the Red Line oil. I should have stopped there. Read some more and now I found out that ester based oils have compatibility issues with some plastics and elastomers like RTV, Honda bond, etc. My car has RVT used in some areas (from the factory). So, as they say the "road to hell is lined with good intentions". My good intention was to use an oil that can clean my engine and piston rings hoping it would help with the oil burning. Now I have another "problem" to worry about.
Is RL 100% ester or a mix, like Amsoil which blends PAO/ester. If blend, do we know how much is ester?
I would think the street car version of RL oils would have to be compatible with materials commonly used in engines or am I expecting too much from the manufacture? I don't want to deal with seals leaking due to incompatibility....a $20 rear seal will set be back a ton at the dealer due to labor involved.
Any thoughts on this? I'm not looking to poke a hornets nest or anything. I have seen some threads on this site go down the drain pretty fast.
Finally, if you have been using RL in late (2013+) accords or any other car I guess, please let me know how it has worked for.
Thanks
Is RL 100% ester or a mix, like Amsoil which blends PAO/ester. If blend, do we know how much is ester?
I would think the street car version of RL oils would have to be compatible with materials commonly used in engines or am I expecting too much from the manufacture? I don't want to deal with seals leaking due to incompatibility....a $20 rear seal will set be back a ton at the dealer due to labor involved.
Any thoughts on this? I'm not looking to poke a hornets nest or anything. I have seen some threads on this site go down the drain pretty fast.
Finally, if you have been using RL in late (2013+) accords or any other car I guess, please let me know how it has worked for.
Thanks
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