Reconsider use of Mobil1????

Toy4x4 · Feb 28, 2003

I've been using M1 10w30 for several months now (into second interval) in a '93 Toyota 4x4 V6 w/ 120K. It seems to burn oil when on the highway @ 70-75mph (about a qrt per 1K). I've already done Toyota Auto-Rx procedure. Considering the climate I live in (temps to 115*F) and M1 being on the thin side of a 30w (possibly the cause of oil consumption????), any opinions on what synthetic oil to use instead? Amsoil seems to have the thickest 30w but I'm also looking at RP, Redline, and possibly Schaeffers.
Or should I consider for a low 10w40 (I've looked and haven't found anything...???). Then again, 10w40's don't seem to be SL rated...true???
Any help appreciated.

Wow...post 200...I'm getting dizzy!

[ February 28, 2003, 11:24 PM: Message edited by: Toy4x4 ]

LubeRube · Feb 28, 2003

I've used Mobil One in all its iterations since 1980 in all my vehicles and I have never had a consumption problem--and I also live in a ****ably hot climate in the summer. Based on my experience I suggest you rethink your premise.

Pablo · Feb 28, 2003

I would consider a 40W, maybe even a 15W-40. Just food for thought. Why do you need an SL oil?

What does oil analysis tell you?

Malibu · Feb 28, 2003

toy4x4, 1000 miles/quart is definately high consumption for a Toyota with such low mileage. It should be more like 3000 miles per quart. Therefore you have a mechanical problem thats causing the oil consumption. It might be something simple like a gummed up throttle bore and plate or old PCV valve or disconnect PCV ventilation hose or it might be something serious like a burned exhaust valve on cyl #4 or #6 due to overly tight valve clearances. Does the engine idle as smoothly, without shaking, as it did when new? If so then your compression is probably normal. If not, that would suggest uneven compression has developed due to something serious.

All a 40 wt oil can do is decrease the oil consumption by a small amount - like you might get 1300 miles/qt instead of 1000.

So rather than think in terms of lubricant or additive solutions (=treating the symptom) think of treating the root mechanical cause of the oil consumption.

Was the consumption there before the Auto-Rx treatment or only afterwards?

Shannow · Feb 28, 2003

Toy4x4,
my 3VZE 4Runner has 110k miles, and doesn't use a drop.

Thinnest oil I've used so far (given that us Aussies grew up on 20W-50) was Mobil1 0W-40. Sounded like a beer can full of ball bearings.

Currently on Delvac 1, and the way it runs, I'll keep using it (20 litre drum for $40 Oz is another reason).

BTW, the dipstick is now spotless after 2500km of Delvac1.

buster · Feb 28, 2003

Delvac 1 and Amsoil's HD S3000 are two good choices. I'm starting see why Tooslick recommends these oils for gas engines. Take a look in the Deisel analyis of S3000 after 15k miles and you will see why. Delvac is aparently on par with S3000 only it's a 40wt. oil.

G-MAN · Feb 28, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by Toy4x4:
Then again, 10w40's don't seem to be SL rated...true???

Not true. If it's a modern 10w40 and it has the API doughnut, it will carry the SL rating. It won't have the ILSAC GF-3 rating, however.

Al · Feb 28, 2003

Just makeup with 15W-50 and see if it helps. My Tyota 22RE uses oil and I cut consumption by almost 50% using 1 quart 15W-50 and the rest 10W-30. But really using M1 10W-30, a sound engine shouldn't consume any more oil than another brand.

Greg · Mar 1, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by Shannow:

BTW, the dipstick is now spotless after 2500km of Delvac1.

i'd expect it to be cleaning somewhat, i thought it was a high detergency oil...

Quick_lude · Mar 1, 2003

Is your consumption constant from the begging of the interval or does it start later in the interval?

unDummy · Mar 1, 2003

Every engine is different. Your AZ climate(assuming it is hot

) might benefit from one of the 40+wt oils. I myself like 0w40 and also have mixed 1-2 quarts of 15w50 with the 0/5/10w30's for my own pseudo blends when xxW40's weren't available.

Try this: Top off all burnage with 15/20w50's. If oil burnage reduces with each additional quart of XXw50, then you'll be better off with the thicker oils or the mix recommended by Al.

And, swapping brands might be an option. I tend to lean toward the more available synths(like Mobil1) but have had no problems with any(RP, PZ, M1, Ams, RL, QS......).

Toy4x4 · Mar 1, 2003

Pablo---haven't analysed yet, waiting to accumulate more mileage on this run. Maybe I should do it sooner.
Malibu---will look into these problems first. Don't notice any adverse shaking, just VERY slight. I and the dealer have cleaned the throttle body. I did notice consumption on a road trip last summer before ARX and using dino Valvoline, same amount.
Shannow---FINALLY another 3VZ-E owner

. Good to know not to use M1 0w40. You really like the D1, huh? That oil price sounds like you're getting a really good deal.
buster---Yes that oil (S3000) might be a consideration for a yearly oil change for me. Will keep it in mind.
Quick-lude---It uses more when traveling at highway speeds, not in beginning or end. I haven't gone longer than 3K w/ the M1 since the first change did some more cleaning after the ARX and I'm on the 2nd interval right now. Maybe I should get oil analysed sooner???
unDummy---"Assuming its hot"

...ahhh...sarcasm...gotta love it

. Early Feb. we hit 85*F at some point. Dang cold going to work at 6am when its 40*F!

****************************
Someone gave the analogy of softballs and basketballs to lower and higher oil weights, respectively. Well, if you put the balls (4-1 ratio, respectively) on a floor and put a board on top, the board will only hit the b-balls of course. Isn't this what would happen with the oil in some sense???

Shannow · Mar 1, 2003

Toy4x4,
the 0W-40 was as thin as Mobil would recommend going in Oz. They stated that the 10W-30 wouldn't harm the engine, but it would likely burn some.

Never got to try that experiment, as it sounded rattly in a down under summer on 0W-40.

The Delvac I decided on after reading this board.

The local dealer was having shockers trying to get it in, then one of his guys said that they had a 20 litre drum in the warehouse that wasn't on the comuter.

It was old(ish), being SH.

And $40 (cash) was all it took to make it mine.

Just got to work out whether I really need to go back and get the drum of HD80W-90, and outboard two stroke for $20 each.

sprintman · Mar 2, 2003

Shannow A$40 for 20 litre Delvac 1 is a real bargain (excellent oil too). I have mainly D1 with a little M1 0W40 TS in my turbo currently. Had one go at 10W30 during Auto-Rx clean and ball bearings in a can says it all. 5W40 my viscosity choice in anything now after perusing this great forum.

buster · Mar 2, 2003

Sprintman, you might be able to answer my question from another post i started. Would it be ok to run Delvac 1 in a toyota 4cyl engine? I know I'll probably loose mpg and hp, but what about the engine temperature from running a 40wt. oil? The car calls for a 30wt. Based on this site, Delvac 1 and Amsoil's S3000 are the best oils in there respective lineup.

sprintman · Mar 2, 2003

That engine here would run 40W at least. I've run 25W70 in a 626 GT for many many changes, in U.S that would be 5W30. Too many of you are hung up on viscosity. I went from 10W30 dino this change to D1/M1 0W40 mix and economy same possibly better (I'll know after a few more tankfulls). Sure is quieter. CAFE sets your viscosity, here it's longevity. Everybody needs to get over this thick viscosity phobia.

PontTransAm1978 · Mar 2, 2003

I have a question about Delvac 1, if you dont mind me asking...

My Trans Am has a 6.6L engine, and I believe you guys said to use a 10w-40 in it. Its a Summer Car. Would using Delvac 1, instead of what I planned to use- GTX High Mileage, be ok? Engine has 67k on it. And what does it mean when you say the Clearence is bigger in my engine?
Thanks

sprintman · Mar 2, 2003

Are the clearances bigger than a Caterpillar or Detroit Diesl truck engine or my 120,000 mile Mazda turbo engine? I just don't know. I wouldn't use it in a very dirty engine or one with leaking seals already, without a clean first. I knew nothing about oil (some say I still don't) when I owned multiple 350 Chev and 351 Clevo engined cars similar in type to your 6.6 and 20W50 only as back then that what oil was here. A bit out of touch with using 5W40 in them. Redline, Amsoil, Schaeffers and Pennzoil have 5/15W40 which would be excellent as well I guess?

Shannow · Mar 2, 2003

A guy at work runs Delo400 in every engine he owns (454 HQ, Mazda 323, 1927 dodge, the list continues). Only thing he runs 20W-50 in is his blown big block rail.

Has had very very good engine life (not so good transmission life, but an aussie M20 and 454 aren't necessarily made for each other).

Looks like xW-40 works in just about anything.

Patman · Mar 2, 2003

quote:

Originally posted by sprintman:
That engine here would run 40W at least. I've run 25W70 in a 626 GT for many many changes, in U.S that would be 5W30. Too many of you are hung up on viscosity. I went from 10W30 dino this change to D1/M1 0W40 mix and economy same possibly better (I'll know after a few more tankfulls). Sure is quieter. CAFE sets your viscosity, here it's longevity. Everybody needs to get over this thick viscosity phobia.

How come we never see oil analysis results from you guys though? We have no way of knowing if your thicker oil really does show lower engine wear. And we've seen enough 10w30 and 5w30 reports on here lately with almost zero engine wear that would certainly prove that these "thin viscosities" can protect the engine, at least in these engine designs. I simply don't believe too many engine designs would show lower engine wear with thick 50wt oils.

Reconsider use of Mobil1????

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