Recommendation for '99 Volvo S70

[GregPR]

Last fall I purchased a 1999 Volvo S70 with 143K miles. It's AWD, 2.5 liter straight-5 with a low pressure turbo. The owners manual specifies engine oil should "meet API specification SG, SG/CD, SH or Engergy Conserving (EC) II". Recommended weights are 5W/30 for temps up to 86 deg F, 5W/40 for temps up to 104 degrees, and 10W/30 from -4 up to 104.

The car is in possession of my college-age son who is at school in Iowa City, roughly 180 miles away.

The car was low on oil when I bought it. There were no obvious leaks so I assumed it was burning -- but I did not know at what rate it did so. I brought it home and did an oil & filter change with Valvoline Synpower 5W/20 (not specified in the manual, but figured it would work with impending winter weather) and a Pure1 cartridge filter (my first experience with a cartridge -- but I use Pure1 spin-on filters usually on my other cars).

Last weekend I did another oil change when my son was home. I checked the oil (he's not real good about this), and it was quite low, barely on the dipstick. He's driven just under 4,000 miles. This time I went with Mobil1 5W/30 High Mileage and a Fram Ultra cartridge from WalMart (which, by the way was crazy expensive - but it didn't hit me until much later because of the other stuff I bought). I put in an entire 5 qt jug of M1 after getting about 3 extremely dirty quarts out. This filled it to the middle of the range on the dipstick.

I sent the boy back to school with two additional quarts in hand after extracting an oath to do a better job checking it. The used oil has already been disposed, so it's too late for a UOA on that batch... but I could put it on the list for next time.

So with all that out of the way, I'd appreciate some guidance on going forward from here. I have a neglected high-mileage engine that still runs surprisingly well. What options on brands & weights should I consider for the next go-round? Additives (I've never really been a believer)? Likewise, what should I consider when choosing a cartridge filter?

Thanks for any input.

 

[drolds]

If this car is consuming oil, the likely culprit is the flame-trap, better known as the PCV valve system. If you have not worked on these, ask a shop that knows these cars. This item "should have" been serviced or replaced at about 100,000 miles. Many oil consumption issues on these cars are solved with a new flame-trap which you can order from Volvo specialty houses.
The oil I have found to work extremely well on these cars is Amsoil AFL 5W-40 Mid-SAPS.This stuff has very low volatility and has a pour point below -40 so its fine for the IA winters.
Fix the flame-trap first, then run a can of engine flush(clean turbo feed lines)for a few minutes and drain the old oil.

Dr. Olds

 

[drolds]

I forgot your filter question. I like the OEM Mann filter and keep my customers to about 12,000 to 15,000 mi OCI as 25k miles is a bit high for a turbo engine even with a PAO based synthetic.

Dr. Olds

 

[Bandito440]

I agree with the Mann filter. Get a tune-up kit and PCV from IPD. They're good people.

Oils: I like Rotella T6 5w-40 in turbos. The Subaru crowd swears by the stuff and have many UOAs to show its effectiveness. You'll also get recommendations for Mobil 1 0w-40 and Castrol 0w-30/40. Those are all fine choices. 5w-20 is definitely not appropriate for this turbo motor. If you still see consumption after replacing the PCV, Mobil 1 10w-40 HM may help.

In this high mileage vehicle with unknown maintenance history, run it 5,000 miles and get a UOA.

 

[HTSS_TR]

The 3 popular cartridge oil filter brands for Volvo are Mann, Bosch and Mahle-Knecht. You can buy either one of these 3 at Rockauto for around $6/ea or less. Buying around 6-8 filters reduces shipping cost per filter to less than $2.

Dr Olds is correct about Volvo infamous "Flame-Trap", it's needed to replace every 80-100k miles to reduce/eliminate the oil consumption. It's labor intensive because it it's behind the intake manifold, you should expect around $200-300 parts and labor.

 

[Kira]

Hello,
PERSONAL INVOLVEMENT: A 1999 V70 (station wagon version of your car) was my previous car.
LEARNED: Many things. IPD, Eeuroparts and FCPeuroparts (fcpgroton's old name) are indeed good people all.
RECOMMENDATION: Brickboard.com and volvoforums.org.uk are 2 great sites
SUGGESTIONS: Buy 6 of the aluminum crush washers for the drain plugs from any of the above vendors. They're cheap.
The oil drain and transmission take the same 18mm crush washer.
I'd only use a "0W" in a turbo. An A3,B3 oil is needed. Castrol 0W-30 or Mobil1 0W-40.

REJOICE: That your car has the 4 speed. If a rebuild is ever necessary, it'll be vastly cheaper than the 5 speed.
Do drain and fills to the transmission fluid to get it/keep it clean.
Use any gallon jug Dex-Merc product. ALTERNATIVELY you can disconnect the top transmission cooling line at the radiator and pump it out super easily.

ABSOLUTELY inspect the handbrake hardware ASAP. The rear rotors must be removed to do this. The friction material commonly breaks off the shoes and causes expensive, unnecessary damage.

Also, if your kid fails to keep track of his oil, beat him with a broom handle. Remove the bristles first. It'll swing better. Kira

 

[901Memphis]

Mobil 1 0W40 European Formula or Rotella T6 5w40. The Mobil 1 HM 5w30 is a fine choice too.

The Fram Ultra cartridge filters can probably be used two intervals easily making it worth the money.

 

[sleddriver]

For years I used a heavier oil (20W-50 or 10w-40) in my car due to the Tx heat and (very) mild Winter. Then went thin and noticed more oil consumption. I'm currently using M1 10w-30 High mileage. If you wish, you can search under my name for my oil topic.

I've used a BG engine flush a few times and it worked well. I always drain the oil cooler when doing an oil change as it holds about a quart.

I discovered my PCV system wasn't functioning too well because of a broken vac hose. Not because it was clogged or 'pressurizing' the crankcase. I pulled the intake manifold and installed all new pcv plumbing. I'd recommend having the car 'smoked' to find any and all vacuum leaks.

I'd also recommend checking the condition of the timing belt, both front & rear camshaft seals, the turbo oil line return seal and the rear main seal. Since you suspect it's burning oil, I'd pull the plugs and have a look.

My 98 doesn't use cartridges, but the old standard types. I use Purolators, Mahles and Manns.

I don't have AWD, so can't advise you there.

Jr. needs to man-up and learn to take care of the vehicles he's provided with AND learn to change his own oil! It's good car stewardship and common sense.

Welcome to BITOG!

 

[GregPR]

Thanks all, for the input!

I think next time around I will go with the M1 0W-40. That's the same stuff I put in my wife's Audi. I have many things rattling around in my head on a daily basis, so minimizing the number of oil grades & types in the garage to service the fleet is nice.

Will definitely look into the flame trap. And I discovered the fine folks at FCPEuro when I needed a set of control arms for the Audi. Great folks! And the other tips on transmission, handbrake, timing belt are appreciated.

Thanks again, for the gra