Reccomended Oil Filter after Flush??

[THORROMIG]

Picked up a can of Lubro Moly Engine Flush part #2037. Want to run this in the old oil for 15 minutes once the motor is already warmed up. What oil filter do I or should I use to catch the debris from the following oil change? I have a BoshDistance Plus here & a Puralator Classic L14476 also. Than its either the Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40 or 5-30 Max life in 91 Toyota Camry 2.0 liter with 219,067 miles. That has some initial smoke at first start of the day after sitting overnite!!

 

[Donald]

I would avoid the flush. If I did want to use a flush I would use Amsoil flush. Any filter will be fine.

Kreen or Auto-Rx or synthetic oil are better at cleaning and safer. If you dislodge a large piece of crud and it clogs an oil galley you will wish you never did a flush.

You most likely have a problem with valve stem seals. Oil seeps past them overnight and burns off in the morning. They are cracked or disintegrated. Nothing will help them except to replace them. The seals are cheap, but the spring for each valve needs to be removed the seal replaced and the spring reinstalled and valve adjusted. If the valve train area is filled with sludge, best to clean that area first or it will be a mess replacing the valve stem seals.

 

[TomYoung]

I too would forget the flush. Run a few shortened OCI's if you want to try to clean the engine's internals using Pennzoil Conventional or the like. Then move to a high mileage oil and see if things improve. The flush is just too risky on a (moderately) high mileage engine.

BTW, if you are trying to resolve initial smoke on startup, you will never get there with an engine flush. In fact that is likely to make it worse.

Best wishes.

 

[hounddog]

Leave well enough alone or use some Flush like Amsoil or others. All they really do is help oil drain better and remove varnish etc. from oil passage way holes. I've put a gallon of engine flu-sh in a heavy sludge engine and let sit 48 hours with minor startups to circulate. No big pieces of any0thing came out. Pulling valve cover before and after you could not see any change.

 

[dubie2003]

ML and the puro. The other would be overkill.

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

I have built and rebuilt a lot of SBC engines.Sometimes,before yanking the engine to build,the engines were noisey (lifters). The person wanted to drive it while I built their engine. I would make a mixture of 1 qt. Kerosene to 4 qts. HD 30 wt oil. It will quiet noisey lifters and clean a non-sludged motor.My guess as to why it works so well is the person would run it 1K-3K miles.

 

[KCJeep]

Typical BITOG you get a bunch of answers to questions not asked.

Run the flush with the existing filter, which it sounds like you planned on doing, and either filter you mentioned would be just fine for after. I'd use the Classic myself since your follow up OCI will likely be on the shorter side and the D+ is way more filter than you need for a shorter OCI.

 

[ChiTDI]

Totally agree on the non-flush choice if possible. Slow and steady is a much better option.
However, if you do flush, think of least restricitve flow for the oil filter. You may even change the filter only during your normal oil run. Basic Purolator Classic would be my choice.

 

[TomYoung]

Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
I have built and rebuilt a lot of SBC engines.Sometimes,before yanking the engine to build,the engines were noisey (lifters). The person wanted to drive it while I built their engine. I would make a mixture of 1 qt. Kerosene to 4 qts. HD 30 wt oil. It will quiet noisey lifters and clean a non-sludged motor.My guess as to why it works so well is the person would run it 1K-3K miles.

Thank you very much for your service, but I must strongly suggest that running a 20% kerosene and straight 30 oil for 3,000 miles (or even 100 miles) is a terrible idea, regardless of how "it works so well." This sounds like the "Grapes of Wrath" car seller putting sawdust in transmissions. Don't do this - kerosene will degrade the oil, damage seals and cause wear on the engine.

I am a little confused, though. Was this a last-ditch throwaway idea before the rebuild???

 

[TomYoung]

Originally Posted By: KCJeep
Typical BITOG you get a bunch of answers to questions not asked.

Run the flush with the existing filter, which it sounds like you planned on doing, and either filter you mentioned would be just fine for after. I'd use the Classic myself since your follow up OCI will likely be on the shorter side and the D+ is way more filter than you need for a shorter OCI.


I think that the original poster got a pretty clear opinion on the flush, which is not a necessary or beneficial procedure in general on cars made recently.

The oil question was not answered, but I suppose I would go with the 5w30 oil, as that is undoubtedly what the mfr specifies. On the filter, flip a coin.

Did I mention that the flush is a bad idea?

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
I have built and rebuilt a lot of SBC engines.Sometimes,before yanking the engine to build,the engines were noisey (lifters). The person wanted to drive it while I built their engine. I would make a mixture of 1 qt. Kerosene to 4 qts. HD 30 wt oil. It will quiet noisey lifters and clean a non-sludged motor.My guess as to why it works so well is the person would run it 1K-3K miles.

Thank you very much for your service, but I must strongly suggest that running a 20% kerosene and straight 30 oil for 3,000 miles (or even 100 miles) is a terrible idea, regardless of how "it works so well." This sounds like the "Grapes of Wrath" car seller putting sawdust in transmissions. Don't do this - kerosene will degrade the oil, damage seals and cause wear on the engine.

I am a little confused, though. Was this a last-ditch throwaway idea before the rebuild???

As I stated,some people wanted to drive their vehicles a bit longer with the noisey engine.Some were very noisey so I used this method to quiet them down until their engine was built.BTW,GUNK engine flush is just Kerosene in a can.
Ever see what Varasol and oil do to the inside of an engine?

 

[HTSS_TR]

Originally Posted By: thorromig
Picked up a can of Lubro Moly Engine Flush part #2037. Want to run this in the old oil for 15 minutes once the motor is already warmed up. What oil filter do I or should I use to catch the debris from the following oil change? I have a Bosh Distance Plus here & a Purolator Classic L14476 also. Than its either the Mobil 1 High Mileage 10w40 or 5-30 Max life in 91 Toyota Camry 2.0 liter with 219,067 miles. That has some initial smoke at first start of the day after sitting overnite!!

I used 1 oz lubegard engine flush for the last 200-300 miles before changed oil instead of the recommend full 15-oz bottle for 15 minutes.

I do oil blot test before, during and on the day I did the oil change, the oil color got darker every 40-50 miles and almost black on the last day.

I think gentle flush (with reduce dosage) is better/safer than quick flush.

 

[steve20]

IMO--no flush--and a high quality syn.
I believe Toyo engines of that era like 10W-XX oil instead of the 5-30 you are thinking of