Rebuilt and sort of re-engineered Dirty Hands Splitter

[donbrownzd]

Howdy all, I have a Dirty Hands log splitter. Bought it new a long, long time ago. Engine crapped out, got a new one from Harbor Freight, that crapped out just recently.

As such, we replaced the engine with a 22hp and a 28 gpm pump that we had. We blew up the 22-ton cylinder (4x1.75x24) likely caused by way to much heat in the system and upgraded to a much larger 5x2x24. We scavenged up a 25-gallon tank to deal with any heat issues (I love free stuff) and plumbed it in.

I was planning on running AW32, AW46 or even AW68 here in CT, we only split in the spring, summer and fall. So generally, temperatures are always over 32 F when being used.

Heat and longevity are my concerns. My tank has a strainer filter and a hydraulic oil filter (spin on).

Eventually, I will build a more perfect commercial duty splitter, however, that time isn't now. I would like to understand the answers to the following questions, so I know how to proceed now, and in the future.

My questions are as follows:

1. Is AW32 or AW46 the best all-around option? I was also considering AW68 any thoughts?

2. Is there any real difference between the three in this application is there enough of a difference to make a difference?

3. What oil brand would you recommend -- or again, does it really not matter in this application?

4. My primary concern is heat build-up in the fluid and cylinder-- as this unit was getting very hot when used heavily-- hence we scrounged up a large tank. Which oil would help best with heat build-up?

5. What is the best place to get the best price on 5 gal. pails of whatever oil is recommended?

Thank you for taking the time to review. I was unable to get clear answers from searching in here to these questions.

Don

 

[dnewton3]

Given that you're not operating in winter, I'd say the AW46 is fine.
Often new units come with instructions which say AW fluids or ATF are acceptable.
Brand won't matter; it's a simply hydraulic system.
You're overthinking it. Just pick one and it'll be fine.
If you have a farm supply store near you, that's often a good source for reasonable pricing.

 

[crashz]

Wow are you a commercial operation? That's a lot of wood to split!

I think the larger tank will help slow the heat build-up, but once hot, you may have the same issue. Any chance you could rig a hydraulic cooler to this? Maybe something plumbed back into the return line scavenged from an old excavator or wheel loader?

 

[dnewton3]

I might add that 28gpm is a LOT of flow for a log splitter. There's no need for a splitter ram to have to operate that fast. And so some (most?) of the heat is possibly coming from such a high volume being forced through controls (directional valve) not rated for such flow rates.

You might do well to add in a proportioning valve which dumps off excess flow.

 

[donbrownzd]

Wow are you a commercial operation? That's a lot of wood to split!

I think the larger tank will help slow the heat build-up, but once hot, you may have the same issue. Any chance you could rig a hydraulic cooler to this? Maybe something plumbed back into the return line scavenged from an old excavator or wheel loader?

No, I'm not commercial but I have acres of dead ash trees and logs to split. And the splitter runs pretty much all day and day after until the rounds are done.

I know the large tank will help, the oil will cool much better than the clownishly small 5-7 gallon axle tank. Until I build the new splitter, there will likely not be any practical way to run an oil cooler. (It's also likely to get destroyed/damaged being used in the woods). It's possible, but I'll have to look around at what kinda junk I can scavenge off.

I'm not planning on the new build until at least next year.

Thanks,

Don

 

[donbrownzd]

I might add that 28gpm is a LOT of flow for a log splitter. There's no need for a splitter ram to have to operate that fast. And so some (most?) of the heat is possibly coming from such a high volume being forced through controls (directional valve) not rated for such flow rates.

You might do well to add in a proportioning valve which dumps off excess flow.

That's a great idea; can you show me a link to such a valve?

Thank you,

Don

 

[donbrownzd]

Given that you're not operating in winter, I'd say the AW46 is fine.
Often new units come with instructions which say AW fluids or ATF are acceptable.
Brand won't matter; it's a simply hydraulic system.
You're overthinking it. Just pick one and it'll be fine.
If you have a farm supply store near you, that's often a good source for reasonable pricing.

Thank you, that was the direction I was leaning in.

 

[thastinger]

Seems the majority of the heat is simply from the flow. My full size 1968 John Deere 3020D tractor is 18GPM hydraulic flow and EVERYTHING on it is hydraulic to include the steering and brakes. No way that a log splitter needs 28GPM...so the excess flow just becomes heat.

 

[dnewton3]

I would say the best approach would be to find a local or regional hydraulic shop in your area. Tell them (or show them pics) of what you have and ask for their recommendation for a specific product.

I know this is important because I have a friend who has a very large tree chipper (12" capacity). It has a 3' diameter flywheel with cutting edges, driven by the PTO. But, the infeed motor system is run via the tractor hydraulics. He had to add a proportional valve to bleed off some of the flow; it was over-powering the hydraulic feed motor on the side of the unit and getting HOT. Once we got the flow set right, the temps dropped and all worked fine.

 

[donbrownzd]

Seems the majority of the heat is simply from the flow. My full size 1968 John Deere 3020D tractor is 18GPM hydraulic flow and EVERYTHING on it is hydraulic to include the steering and brakes. No way that a log splitter needs 28GPM...so the excess flow just becomes heat.

The 28 GPM pump on this log splitter is a 2 stage, 28 GPM high flow (low pressure) and 7 GPM low flow (high pressure).

Don

 

[donbrownzd]

I would say the best approach would be to find a local or regional hydraulic shop in your area. Tell them (or show them pics) of what you have and ask for their recommendation for a specific product.

I know this is important because I have a friend who has a very large tree chipper (12" capacity). It has a 3' diameter flywheel with cutting edges, driven by the PTO. But, the infeed motor system is run via the tractor hydraulics. He had to add a proportional valve to bleed off some of the flow; it was over-powering the hydraulic feed motor on the side of the unit and getting HOT. Once we got the flow set right, the temps dropped and all worked fine.

Yeah, like I said if you got a link to a product, I'd be interested to read it. But yeah, I didn't know the controls had a flow rating and I'm going to look into this right now.

Thanks,

Don