Why not stick a carb and distributor in it while on the stand and fire it up before installing? Would hate to have to take it back out if there was even a minor issue that only can be addressed with the engine out.Firing it up for the first time was an event rivaling the first manned flight.
As I got older and had more money I tuned everything on a dyno.Why not stick a carb and distributor in it while on the stand and fire it up before installing? Would hate to have to take it back out if there was even a minor issue that only can be addressed with the engine out.
Ring gear is part of the torque converter on these Mopars. So the transmission has to be installed. Once the tranny is on you have to fill it with fluid and run the cooler lines and adjust the rooster comb and parking pawl lock. Easier to just install. Wish I had a dyno. I have rotated it through by hand several times and felt each plug hole for suck and blow. I have done some rough measurements of valve opening at the rocker. I am confident that mechanically the engine is ok.Why not stick a carb and distributor in it while on the stand and fire it up before installing? Would hate to have to take it back out if there was even a minor issue that only can be addressed with the engine out.
Can't you bolt a flywheel to the crank? Or turn it over at the crank pulley or however they start a dragster?Ring gear is part of the torque converter on these Mopars. So the transmission has to be installed.
In the mid year and early shark Corvette years, the overspray is mandatory in restorations.Yeah, overspray, drips, bare spots...the worlds worst engine paint jobs from the factory in the 1960's. The paint on the body wasn't much better. This car is a 1964 Plymouth Fury that started life with a 318 poly and pushbutton transmission. It is now a 440 and will have the cable shift console transmission and a delete plate where the pushbutton's used to reside.
Starter uses the transmission bellhousing for one of the two bolts. Believe me when I tell you I would much rather start it before install but there are no easy paths for this. I used HPL break in oil, that combined with all the high ZDDP assembly lube should be enough I'm thinking. The neighbors are going to be pis sed with the noise and smoke from the initial ywenty minute1500-2000 rpm break in run. No mufflers, open manifold.Can't you bolt a flywheel to the crank? Or turn it over at the crank pulley or however they start a dragster?
Pure heaven. I kinda like open headers as well...The neighbors are going to be pis sed with the noise and smoke from the initial ywenty minute1500-2000 rpm break in run. No mufflers, open manifold.