Rear Brake Drums for 09 Kia Rio

Get coated drums.

The only drums listed for your 2009 Rio worth buying are Powerstop and Wagner. They are coated on the inside and out. Most coated drums are only coated on the outside (facing the wheel), but not the inside (facing the hub) so they could still freeze to the hub :sneaky:

Get whatever shoes ship from the same warehouse as the drums. Centric shoes are GG, while all the others seem to be FF
 
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slacktide_bitog said:
Get coated drums.

The only drums listed for your 2009 Rio worth buying are Powerstop and Wagner. They are coated on the inside and out. Most coated drums are only coated on the outside (facing the wheel), but not the inside (facing the hub) so they could still freeze to the hub :sneaky:

Get whatever shoes ship from the same warehouse as the drums. Centric shoes are GG, while all the others seem to be FF
Click to expand...

Wagner Drums
Thank you. Are those drums ok? they are pretty cheap compared to the other options. I am trying to save $ considering the age of the car but i don't want to replace them in 8 months ether to.
 
Sid6.7 said:
Wagner Drums
Thank you. Are those drums ok? they are pretty cheap compared to the other options. I am trying to save $ considering the age of the car but i don't want to replace them in 8 months ether to.
Click to expand...

Yes, Wagner drums are fine :)

Get the Wagner drums, and pair them with whatever shoes ship from the same warehouse. The reason the drums for your car are so cheap is because they are probably small on a car like the Rio.

Also, the shoes don't include the hardware, so you have to buy the hardware kit separately.
 
slacktide_bitog said:
Yes, Wagner drums are fine :)

Get the Wagner drums, and pair them with whatever shoes ship from the same warehouse. The reason the drums for your car are so cheap is because they are probably small on a car like the Rio.

Also, the shoes don't include the hardware, so you have to buy the hardware kit separately.
Click to expand...

Ok thank you, I was just wondering if it was worth spending money on the power stop ones or if the wagners were of cheaper material?

if I end up doing the front end what would you recommend for the front end? I don't mind spending a bit more money on the rotors and pads for the front if it means the car will stop better. I plan on keeping this car until its ready to die so I'd prefer it to be as fun to drive as i can. I am not sure about any of the cross drilled rotors though as I have herd they can increase maintenance and noise.

mainly i just don't want economy parts on the car that have to be replaced in a few months, Id prefer to spend now and not do the job twice.

link to the roto and pad kits
rotor and pad kits
 
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Sid6.7 said:
Ok thank you, I was just wondering if it was worth spending money on the power stop ones or if the wagners were of cheaper material?

if I end up doing the front end what would you recommend for the front end? I don't mind spending a bit more money on the rotors and pads for the front if it means the car will stop better. I plan on keeping this car until its ready to die so I'd prefer it to be as fun to drive as i can. I am not sure about any of the cross drilled rotors though as I have herd they can increase maintenance and noise.

mainly i just don't want economy parts on the car that have to be replaced in a few months, Id prefer to spend now and not do the job twice.

link to the roto and pad kits
rotor and pad kits
Click to expand...

For the front, get either the Powerstop coated rotors (in the gray section) part number JBR1159EVC and Pagid pads (part number 355035841)

or

Powerstop kit CRK4652 (from your link)

Powerstop's rotors are awesome, though their pads aren't the greatest. However, there is a $30 rebate on the Powerstop kit :unsure:
 
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slacktide_bitog said:
For the front, get either the Powerstop coated rotors (in the gray section) part number JBR1159EVC and Pagid pads (part number 355035841)

or

Powerstop kit CRK4652 (from your link)

Powerstop's rotors are awesome, though their pads aren't the greatest. However, there is a $30 rebate on the Powerstop kit :unsure:
Click to expand...

I Was wondering why the kit was so expensive but its has calipers in it to , I might get this kit or the induvial stuff you mentioned.

POWER STOP rotor and pad kit
 
I have replaced a few drums on my Foci over the years because the wheel bearings are pressed in, and they fail. I just get canadian tire's upper level house brand and never had a problem with the drum itself. I had a brake cylinder go bad and stick outwards but I think even then there was hardly any wear on the drum itself, just the shoes were gone...
I guess in my experience something better than a white box part, has been good enough? I put some grease between the wheel bearing and the axle stub and they always come off fine?
 
I would stick with OEM drums whenever possible. Drums have always been a ***** for the aftermarket.

When reverse engineering a part, holes get toleranced larger and things that go in holes get toleranced smaller. So...the center hole in a drum will always be bigger than it should be on an aftermarket part.

Also for some reason, every factory we ever dealt with refused to finish machine the center pilot hole and the friction surface in the same fixturing, so we had some concentricity issues.

On a rotor, none of this matters because we can correct concentricity issues with balance for the most part, and a few thou on the pilot hole doesn't matter either.

On a drum, it's fairly important the the friction surface be concentric with the spindle axis. Now, if we throw in an aftermarket rear hub bearing, who's pilot is tolerance smaller than the OEM hub....we've got quite a bit of slop and the resulting concentricity error.

I've never had problems with OEM drums. Very common to see problems with aftermarket drums. If OE is available, I won't even consider aftermarket drums.
 
lbhsbz said:
I would stick with OEM drums whenever possible. Drums have always been a ***** for the aftermarket.

When reverse engineering a part, holes get toleranced larger and things that go in holes get toleranced smaller. So...the center hole in a drum will always be bigger than it should be on an aftermarket part.

Also for some reason, every factory we ever dealt with refused to finish machine the center pilot hole and the friction surface in the same fixturing, so we had some concentricity issues.

On a rotor, none of this matters because we can correct concentricity issues with balance for the most part, and a few thou on the pilot hole doesn't matter either.

On a drum, it's fairly important the the friction surface be concentric with the spindle axis. Now, if we throw in an aftermarket rear hub bearing, who's pilot is tolerance smaller than the OEM hub....we've got quite a bit of slop and the resulting concentricity error.

I've never had problems with OEM drums. Very common to see problems with aftermarket drums. If OE is available, I won't even consider aftermarket drums.
Click to expand...

The OEM drums for the OP's Rio are over $150 each :sneaky:
 
lbhsbz said:
I would stick with OEM drums whenever possible. Drums have always been a ***** for the aftermarket.

When reverse engineering a part, holes get toleranced larger and things that go in holes get toleranced smaller. So...the center hole in a drum will always be bigger than it should be on an aftermarket part.

Also for some reason, every factory we ever dealt with refused to finish machine the center pilot hole and the friction surface in the same fixturing, so we had some concentricity issues.

On a rotor, none of this matters because we can correct concentricity issues with balance for the most part, and a few thou on the pilot hole doesn't matter either.

On a drum, it's fairly important the the friction surface be concentric with the spindle axis. Now, if we throw in an aftermarket rear hub bearing, who's pilot is tolerance smaller than the OEM hub....we've got quite a bit of slop and the resulting concentricity error.

I've never had problems with OEM drums. Very common to see problems with aftermarket drums. If OE is available, I won't even consider aftermarket drums.
Click to expand...
I had a bad run with AC Delco drums on a Nissan Sentra. The machining was uneven and caused the brake shoes to chatter. Found the solution to the chattering in a Ford TSB of all places. The fix was to either turn the drums or pull the handbrake and drive at low speed for a prescribed distance to wear in a new pattern. Worked but it was a pain to sort out. Decided to just go OEM this time.
 
nthach said:
I’ve had luck with DFC drums on a Fit. Aftermarket drums aren’t machined on specific equipment but take it for what it’s worth.
Click to expand...

DFC claims their drums are machined on drum-specific equipment

DFC:
Unlike other manufacturers who machine and balance drums on the same lines as rotors, DFC utilize dedicated vertical turning centers and balancing machines to manufacture our brake drums. This ensures that each brake drum is correctly machined and electronically balanced to further eliminate vibrations and guarantee a true fitment. Lastly, every DFC brake drum passes a 100% inspection station that critical attributes to ensure proper form, fit, and function.
Click to expand...
 
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