Rear Axle Seal - Problems- Not Factory Bearings Or Seals

[Fitz98]

I have a rear axle seal leak on my 98 Expedition 5.4. I purchase new seals, thinking I would pop the old seal out and replace with a new seal. Turns out I have repair bearings. I cannot identify them. What is my best course of action here? Remove repair bearing and replace with new factory bearing and race and use factory seal? I don't understand the purpose of the repair bearing to begin with. Or replace with another repair bearing kit? Here are pictures of the bearing and also the axle shaft for reference

 

[Chris142]

Repair bearings are used when the area on the axle where the bearing sits is damaged. You need new axles,factory style bearings and seals.

 

[Fitz98]

I am not sure that the axle shaft is damaged though. I don't see or feel any ridges where the bearing would ride. What would I be looking for on the axle shaft to see if it is worn or damaged. I don't see anything glaringly obvious

 

[mk378]

They grind down the axle until it is smooth but undersized, then install an undersized bearing and seal to match it. If you can't find a seal that matches consider swapping the whole rear axle from a parts truck. Doesn't make sense to spend a lot of money on this one.

 

[Fitz98]

Another thought. In this repair bearing setup, the bearing itself is greased and the oil seal is between the differential oil and the greased bearing. The reason I diagnosed a bad oil seal to begin with, was black sludge on my emergency brakes and inside the rotor where the e brakes seat. That was before I found out it is a repair bearing. I am wondering if perhaps the issue is more about the grease slinging out of the bearing and perhaps re-greasing with a quality grease might solve the problem? Otherwise, the oil seal may not be working and oil is getting to the bearing grease and diluting the grease. There is not much of a seal between the bearing and the hub, just a press fit single lip [img]http://[/img]

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted by Fitz98

I am not sure that the axle shaft is damaged though. I don't see or feel any ridges where the bearing would ride. What would I be looking for on the axle shaft to see if it is worn or damaged. I don't see anything glaringly obvious

Somebody used that repair bearing for a reason.

 

[Fitz98]

It's possible, I took to a mechanic 3 years ago for an axle seal leak. This is the result.

 

[MNgopher]

A repair bearing is typically used when the axle shaft (functioning as the inner race) is worn, damaged, chipped, etc... usually after a bearing had an issue. They can also be used when the axle seal is not sealing properly anymore due to the surface wearing. Your options are: Put it back together with the correct rear bearing and seal. The danger here is you may quickly find out why the repair bearing was used. Put it back together with a repair bearing/seal. It does not have to be the same one you took off. The last option is to source a new or used axle shaft, and go with the proper new bearing and seal. Honestly, the number of things I remember you replacing on this vehicle, I'd have shot it and put it out to pasture a while ago...

 

[Fitz98]

Originally Posted by MNgopher

Put it back together with a repair bearing/seal. It does not have to be the same one you took off.

I was thinking about this. Do you have a recommendation for a good one? The one I have on now looks kind of cheap with the plastic carrier, although the bearing itself has held up well for 3 years now, just started to leak. Also, any advice how to pull this one out? SKF SKF Repair Bearing I saw this Timken, which looks likea nice double lip oil seal is on the outside, so the bearing would be lubed by the gear oil Timken Regarding putting it out of my misery, I have thought that on many occasions, including now. I thought this was going to be a simple seal replacement to solve the problem.

 

[clinebarger]

Repair bearings are garbage, New axles aren't that much. I buy mine from Standard Transmission here in Ft. Worth TX, They might have good used shafts for your truck? http://www.standardtransmission.com/differential.html Use Koyo/Torrington bearings only, A lot of the Timken, Dana/Spicer & SKF bearings are reboxed Koyo's.

 

[Fitz98]

Locktite red or blue on the threaded locking pin? I may need to remove it again in the future.

 

[clinebarger]

Blue, Just a dab.

 

[Fitz98]

Do you think any wear or damage on the shaft that would prevent me from going back to a factory bearing and seal would be noticeable? The shaft feels smooth and even. There are no wear ridges, grooves or pits. Visually I see no reason to have changed to repair bearing and seal, other than it had 220k miles on it when I asked for the bearings and seal to be replaced.

 

[clinebarger]

I don't see any evident damage to that axle....Other than it looks "Too Polished". Try a new OE style bearing & seal, They should both fit well the entire distance/length of the machined surface. Don't jamb the lip seal into the radius of the axle. Some well meaning mechanics just don't know, They may think a repair bearing is better even though NEW axles got sold?

 

[Fitz98]

I am going to try this, dealer said bearing is Koyo stamped USA. I have the dealer seals already. I am debating if I should do the driver's side at the same time, or just wait until it does leak. It is not leaking or making any noise.

 

[Fitz98]

So I rented a bearing puller from Advanced to remove the repair bearing. Turns out all the attachments do not fit with my axle. I ended up using jaw pullers with the slide hammer. Not sure what I would use when and if I had to remove factory bearings I bought today. The biggest bearing puller attachment fits the bearing opening well and the bearing, but it will not fit into the main axle opening that the back of the bearing seats against When I tried that attachment behind the bearing I was pulling out, it was just digging into the axle tube and not pulling the bearing. I Think part of this damage was from someone else as well, since I could feel the burrs with my finger before pulling the bearing out. I will clean this up with a dremmel. It is the right size to catch the bearing carrier The next puller side down fits in the tube, but does not catch the bearing carrier for pulling In order for this kit to work, The bearing would have to be far enough away from the lip of the tube to allow the puller to flip up in the milled bearing opening without hitting the tube. What have others done to pull these bearings?

 

[01rangerxl]

When I replaced the factory original bearings in my 02 Ranger's 7.5, the O'Reilly's loaner puller kit worked fine. Maybe the repair bearing had something to do with none of the adapters working quite right. My axles looked worse than yours and I opted to use standard replacement bearings and seals. No issues 20k miles later. I think the repair bearings might be useful in extreme cases, but not every time the axle shows a little wear.

 

[Fitz98]

When installing the new bearing, should the front of the bearing be installed flush with the front ridge, or the back of the bearing bottoming out against the rear ridge..or does it even matter? Bearing is 1.203 wide, front ridge to back ridge is 1.309 Bearing has a rolled edge, so not sure if the rolled edge would even hit the rear ridge until it was in further than the ridge. I can see and feel when the front of the bearing would be flush with the front edge

 

[01rangerxl]

The most important thing is getting it as straight as possible. Depth is when it feels good and seated at or behind the front lip. There's a loaner tool kit for installing the bearings and seals, I found it helpful.

 

[clinebarger]

You bottom them....But not beat them to death & distort the race.