Real synthetic oil?

I have used true synthetics in demanding applications with good results . It depends on how much you enjoy hot stuck rings and their concomitant power loss and damage vs. proper cylinder balance. The real bad actor had been the VM load in severe multigrades like 5W30. The VM chemistry have improved over the past could decade where they are not as problematic.
Still I have recollection of stunning and consistent running engine with a well formulated true synthetic.
I haven't experienced stuck rings since API SH.
This sentence negates the whole paragraph.
I have had the same experience with non "true" synthetics.
Like I said, improvements in oil testing and specifications have cured a lot of ailments. Not the base oil.
 
Toyota hybrids call for 0W-16, and it is pretty common these days at the local Autozone and Walmart.
Some Toyota NON-hybrids spec 0w-16 at least since 2018. My Camry is an example. I recall so many saying this engine would surely grenade in no time. Referred to it as "disposable". I've only about 50,000 miles, but, it can be over-filled by about 1/3 of an inch and still not lose a discernable amount in 5000 miles (the interval I've chosen to use). And, this engine can get over 50 mpg with three adults on a highway trip staying within the speed limit (from 55 up to 70, mostly 60-65, although hilly).
 
I'd be less worried about what the base stock is then what the oil is approved for. If you want the best performing oils, the simplest way to get that performance is to go with euro flavors or ones that meet ACEA A3/B4, ACEA A5/B5, Porsche A40, and the various MB/VW approvals.

Comparing API SP to any of the above mentioned makes it look like bottom barrel trash. It should be said however that if your car only requires API or ILSAC specs it will likely be fine. Most of the major brands exceed those specifications, but if you want the extra protection a Euro oil is the cheapest and easiest way to get it.
 
Some Toyota NON-hybrids spec 0w-16 at least since 2018. My Camry is an example. I recall so many saying this engine would surely grenade in no time. Referred to it as "disposable". I've only about 50,000 miles, but, it can be over-filled by about 1/3 of an inch and still not lose a discernable amount in 5000 miles (the interval I've chosen to use). And, this engine can get over 50 mpg with three adults on a highway trip staying within the speed limit (from 55 up to 70, mostly 60-65, although hilly).
Report back when it has 150,000 miles. 50k is barely broken in for a modern car and even the worst engines would survive 60k if the OCI was completely ignored.
 
I'd be less worried about what the base stock is then what the oil is approved for. If you want the best performing oils, the simplest way to get that performance is to go with euro flavors or ones that meet ACEA A3/B4, ACEA A5/B5, Porsche A40, and the various MB/VW approvals.

Comparing API SP to any of the above mentioned makes it look like bottom barrel trash. It should be said however that if your car only requires API or ILSAC specs it will likely be fine. Most of the major brands exceed those specifications, but if you want the extra protection a Euro oil is the cheapest and easiest way to get it.
Sort of like this motor oil which is both A3/B4 and API SP. Bottom of the barrel trash? Go back and do your homework.

D44D2590-9D04-4783-903F-F20D1E5C95FF.jpg
 
Forget the NASCAR reference...

The area where PAO shines is cold starts and extreme high temperature. A daily commuter cruising down the highway at 220*F will never know the difference between PAO and G-III. If you get no benefit from really expensive PAO, why would you run it? Just to say you're running it? Because it's a "real" synthetic?


I would rather just get rid of "conventional" and "synthetic" terminology, as well as the oil grades, and just start classifying oils by CCS-HTHS. Find what fits, what works, and don't lose sleep over whether it's a "real" synthetic or not.
 
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If you get better wear numbers from group III than IV, why would you use IV?

Any evidence for the claim barely hidden in that question?

I'm certain we both have seen thousands of UOAs and read dozens of articles and books.
At least I didn't come across a single evidence for Group III oils providing less wear compared
to a blend of Group IV and V.
That being said, I don't remember a single series of UOAs proving that one oil gives clearly less
wear over another oil, given both are same viscosity and intended for the same application.
As I said before, "additive response" isn't a valid argument as there's no such thing as a 'pure
PAO oil' out there. In real world there are plenty of blends of Group III, IV and V, many of them
being excellent. One example I mentioned before is M1 ESP 5W-30. I'm sure it's blended this
way for performance AND cost.
 
I haven't experienced stuck rings since API SH.
Well, I have over dozens of cars, over dozens of years so I would chance a guess that you have too.

Often lumpy running is blamed on "dirty fuel injectors" or "worn spark plugs" or "valve lash is too tight"
or " I have really BAD gas tonight - cant race!"

I agree, the Oil Co's should dispense with the Synthetic moniker. They broke it, they should fix it.
But its has been a caste system forming product tiers for so long, I don't think they can let go.

I used to somewhat enjoy arguing with the Subaru Service advisor about their demand that "Synthetic" oil is required.
I said what specification is that? He said It's got to be Synthetic. And I said that is no performance spec,
They Meet or exceed the same requirement. API Starburst plus ILSAC GF-4 or 5.

Then I pointed to this text buried in the O.M:



sub_conventional oil2011.JPG
 
The definition of synthetic engine oil has changed from "what is the actual content of the oil" to "how well does the oil perform." In other words, if an oil performs as well as a true synthetic oil made in a laboratory, it can be called full synthetic. I have mixed feelings about this... I think the rest of the world is (again) laughing at Americans because the rest of the world still goes by the definition of synthetic oil based on actual content of the oil, which is (in my opinion) technically more accurate. Although I do enjoy getting the performance of real synthetic oil but paying much less for fake synthetic.
 
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