Real Syn?

Messages
3
Location
AZ, USA
I used to run Mobil 1 in an air-cooled engine. It would vapor lock like crazy before using the syn oil. I also got a 10% boost im gas milage. But that was when Mobil 1 was real synthetic. So, I'm interested in the milage angle again. I am a very unsophisticiated oil guy and need to know which oils are "real" syn now? Thanks in advance, Dan in ABQ
 
Messages
4,036
Location
Chicago, IL
Mobil 1 Extended Performance is a true synthetic. you can validate it by reading on the back of the bottle that its good for 15k miles. Most Amsoil is real, except for their "XL" line. The new Castrol Edge is real, (although Syntec is fake) MOST of the bag name synthetics are "fake". Royal Purple, Redline are real. that being said, even the "fake" synthetics are pretty good oil; although for just a little more cost.....
 
Messages
1,335
Location
Arizona
I agree it should get interesting. By "real" group IV and V come to mind. Two products that are definately not group III/hydrocracked would be Amsoil and Redline. There are others out there like Motul and Neo which arent as widely available in the states. Is this going to be for your air-cooled engine? What type of use?
 
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11,184
Location
Bad Axe, MI
Brother the myths never end rest assure Mobil 1 is a real synthetic one of the finest out there,what application are you using this in what for??
 
Messages
1,335
Location
Arizona
I am going to assume he is (maybe without realizing it)asking what oils do not contain components that once were petroleum and have been chemically changed to be "synthetic". So group III vs IV/V.
 
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Messages
143
Location
Virginia
Has more to do with the base oils. Group III vs. Group IV. I keep reading on these forums that the M1 5W30, 10W30, etc. are really Group III (mineral) based while the M1 0W40 (European Formula) is a Group IV (PAO based true synthetic). I'm no expert and cannot confirm this... perhaps someone can. BTW, Back in the mid '70s when I had my Yamaha 500 M/C, it used to run very hot on summer days in stop/go traffic. The Yamaha oils would oxidize under the heat and the engine would practically sieze up. I'd have to let the engine cool before I could even crank it over. I switched to M1 5W30 and it withstood the heat so well, I never had another problem. I was sold on M1 oils and used them exclusively in all my cars since then... until I bought my BMW. Now, being a bit more educated, I'm using the BMW or German Castrol synthetics - primarily because of the PAO base and they meet manufacturer specs. The M1 5W30 does NOT meet BMW specs.
 
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oilymoily

Thread starter
Messages
3
Location
AZ, USA
Thanks for the responses. First, I understand that when Mobil1 first came out, it was called "plastic oil" then (70's) and what I guess is now group IV (or V) oil. Castrol then produced a "Synthetic" petro based oil that was rated for the 15k OCI (but was class III?). Mobil took Castrol to court. The court decided that "Synthetic" is a rating and not an actual ingredient. 15K OCI vs. "Plastic or Petro". I could be brain damaged of course and massively misinformed so feel free to correct me. I just change my own oil and drive the car. This is for a 2006 Honda MT6 Accord (3.0L engine w/ 6-speed manual: Whee!) and a 2007 Honda Civic Hybrid (1.3L with CVT auto: Wife's). I’m trying to squeeze a few extra MPGs out of the tanks. My experience with the old plastic M1 was that the air-cooled engine (72 Porche) ran much cooler on the original M1 and got 33-34 mpg as opposed to 28-30 running petro oil. I’m using M1 0-20 in both Monfsd now but not seeing any increase in gas mileage. I’m trying to decide if going with a true, plastic synthetic oil is going to do the job. For my quick education, briefly, what is the difference between class III, IV and V oils? Thanks for all of your wonderful responses to a question that could take me a couple of weeks of reading this site to answer. Dan in ABQ
 
Messages
651
Location
Iowa
Oilymoily, I have an 04 accord with the 3.0 liter v6. In all honesty, I have not seen any measurable difference in fuel efficiency comparing 0W20 to 5W30. I kept fuel logs for about 20,000 miles. The summer highway average was always around 29.2. (about 27-31) In fact, the best single tank average I ever had was with 5W30. Of course one tank is just a single data point and is really meaningless. I noticed a bigger difference by just slowing down 5mph. IMO you are not going to see much of a difference. Edit, I see you have been lurking here for months and just now posted.
 
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