Ready to do my first brake pad change this weekend

[weebl]

Okay, I'm ready to do my first brake pad change this weekend. I think have almost everything I think I need to do the job, with the three remaining items being brake fluid, caliper grease and 3/16" ID vinyl tubing.

I've made myself a DIY version of the Motive Power Bleeder (just without the pressure gauge installed yet, though in a temporary hook up of a gauge, I have a good feel for where 15 psi to 20 psi is). Had to improvise something for the brake reservoir cap (for a Toyota), made with a Moen silicone toilet flapper of all things, and an old aerosol cap, improvised to put even pressure, and to be held on with duct tape to form a seal while I work. (Hard to describe, but it makes sense if you see it). My original design for holding the cap failed as what I was using wasn't rigid enough. For Toyota (or others with similar reservoir caps), I'll post my final design once I've got it worked out. The improvised version is because I don't have much time to get it done before the weekend.

My goal in this job is to replace the front pads, and bleed the brake fluid. Rears are fine. Front rotors are fine. I'm not asking for help with the specifics of changing out the pads, but do want some advise on the correct procedure in this circumstance.

Here's how I understand what I need to do, so if I'm wrong, please correct me:

1. Jack rear passenger side of vehicle, remove wheel. Hook up power bleeder, then bleed from the rear passenger side. Stop the bleed once clean fluid shows up in the drain tube. Reinstall wheel.

2. Repeat this for rear driver side.

3. Now, jack both front corners, removing wheels and supporting with jack stands.

4. Change front passenger side pads. Bleed front passenger side.

5. Change front driver side pads. Bleed front driver side.

6. With wheels reinstalled, and vehicle on the ground, start the engine, and pump the brake pedal several times until it is firm and no longer sinks to the floor.

Anything I should add, change or be aware of? Vehicle is a 2006 Toyota Sienna.

 

[Audi Junkie]

DIY brakes is my definition of manlyness.

 

[HTSS_TR]

Release pressure of the "DIY Power Bleeder" before steps 4 and 5. You'll need to compress the caliper to install the pads, with pressure on the bleeder you will have a hard time to compress it.

I'll do:

3b. Release pressure of the Bleeder.

4. Change both front pads.

5a. Bleed front passenger side.

5b. Bleed front driver side.

 

[The Critic]

I would replace the front pads before bleeding the brakes. But that's just me.

I would also consult the factory service manual to check for the correct bleed sequence. Not all cars are nearest to furthest.

 

[L_Sludger]

Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
DIY brakes is my definition of manlyness.
Mine is a DIY auto trans rebuild.

 

[Audi Junkie]

Don't get any brake fluid on the pads, it'll crumble them. I'd say to service the calipers, pull them apart, clean lube and check the boots. The brakes will work nice then.

 

[Smoky14]

DO NOT: just push the pistons back in. Open the bleed port before pushing the pistons back in and let the dirt and crud escape the port. This will keep the sludge from working its way back to vital components.

MHO

 

[eljefino]

I would seperate the two jobs. Do pads first and make sure they work. Then bleed.

Any crud you shake loose might go halfway up the lines, but you're going to get that anyway.

As fun as power bleeders are, I'd KISS the first time and do the assistant stomping pedal with you turning bleeders, or you can jam a 2x4 between the pedal and seat cushion, the seat cushion will push it.

Though it's not necessarily the "best" way it'll be simple. If you don't plan on doing many brakes the $1 "catsup packet" of grease at the parts store counter will do.

 

[mechtech2]

Eljefino has good points.
When you do the pads, get new rotors and clean them well, or sand/scuff the old ones.
Lubricating the sliding pins and surfaces is very important [after a cleaning].

 

[Audi Junkie]

I like a gravity bleed.

 

[Rick in PA]

I like to do a half dozen good firm "stops" from about 25 or 30 MPH (not full stops, just to really slow and keep the car moving) to bed the pads in on a brake job.

 

[bcossa2001]

Get a long C clamp to help push the pistons back in and some coathanger wire to suspend the caliper off of the shock while you are working on the pads...

 

[Herz]

caliper grease I use noting but NAPA sil-glyde, inspect the calipers and replace if necessary. You can get a piston push in tool at NAPA, made by danaher for 12 bucks, carries a lifetime warranty and mine was US made.

Good luck, theres a nice feeling of accomplishment after a brake job.

 

[weebl]

Great tips! Thanks, guys!

Any suggestions as to an alternative to brake cleaner that's non toxic in an enclosed space? I'll be in the garage, and being winter, I may not be able to have the door open. If there's no alternative, then I'll freeze instead of inhale toxins.

 

[Vikas]

I suspect most of the brake cleaners these days are the non-chlorinated versions.

Best tip that I can give you is to get a digital camera and a tripod and then you can proudly show your accomplishments forever!
Seriously, if you run in to trouble, at least you can look at the pictures to see how it was before you started taking things apart.

- Vikas

 

[fdcg27]

Originally Posted By: L_Sludger
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
DIY brakes is my definition of manlyness.
Mine is a DIY auto trans rebuild.


Yeah, a DIY auto trans rebuild would rank really high on the manliness scale.
Brakes?
Manly?
Too easy, too simple, too clean, and too little potential for cuts of the kind that make you wonder whether you should go and get stitiches or not.
Still, a very good project for the OP's first effort beyond mere oil changes.

 

[mechtech2]

Simple Green or even dishwashing soap in water are very good.