Radiator with EOC question (2019

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I'll be replacing the radiator on my 03 suburban.

RA's website has a Denso for a reasonable price, but it includes the EOC. My rig is not EOC equipped. EOC- Engine OIL Cooler

Mine specs the 1" thick core, 34" wide. Though the actual measurements on the 1" radiators core range from 7/8" to 1".

However the ones spec'd with the EOC are over 1' thick. The Denso comes in at 1.3".

I like the thicker radiator with a schmekel more capacity.

Is it ok to use a radiator with EOC fittings that aren't being used? I can cap the EOC ports.

It also has the trans cooler which I will be using.

Thanks
 
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Oh, on a related note. Vehicle has 157k miles. I purchased last year, so last flush/drain & fill are unknown.

I think I should flush before installing the new radiator? I don't want what's in there now to contaminate the new radiator.

I figure I'd flush with water, 3x, then on the last drain, replace the radiator and water pump.

Thoughts on this method?
 
Yes you just wouldn't hook up the oil cooler (no one calls it an "EOC") section. You don't need to cap the ports but that would be useful to keep dirt out if you ever wanted to use it.
 
Originally Posted by mk378
Yes you just wouldn't hook up the oil cooler (no one calls it an "EOC") section. You don't need to cap the ports but that would be useful to keep dirt out if you ever wanted to use it.

Our books call it an eoc. And a toc is the trans cooler
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. You are correct. No reason to plug the oil cooler other than to keep it clean for future use. A thicker core does not mean it cools better. It may have less fpi. That's Fins Per Inch.
 
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Originally Posted by Cmobile

Is it ok to use a radiator with EOC fittings that aren't being used? I can cap the EOC ports.


Sure, why not?

People use auto trans radiators in manual trans cars all the time.

Personally,. I would cap them so you can use them later, if needed.
 
The fan clutch is starting to go,, always on, sounds like a jet engine. So it's good practice to change water pump at the same time.

We're gonna be traveling quite a bit this summer, Arizona, Mojave Desert, So Cal. So It is peace of mind for me to add the radiator as part of the package.

Currently, the only real problem is the fan clutch.
There is some tell tale signs of cooling pump seepage, but ever so slight.
 
Definitely throw the big radiator in, if you can. The unused cooler will be fine, and the extra core thickness it a bonus.
 
Rock Auto carries the actual OE radiator for your Suburban. That is what I would use since you can actually get an OEM radiator at a fair price
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It is probably OK to just cap off the EOC ports. After all, many radiators are the same for automatic and manual transmissions, and contain a connection to a transmission cooler that only automatics have. People with manuals just cap off the connection to the transmission cooler
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Thanks for the advice and confirmation!.

Slacktide:
I initially thought I'd go with the OE AC Delco. The reason I'm leaning towards the Denso, it has a core thickness of 1.338" (rounded to 1.34") vs. OE of 1.07". (Slightly more capacity)

That, and (at least I think) has good quality comparable to OE. Is there a fallacy in my reasoning here?

Thanks,
~C
 
I'm just angry that all the aftermarket Denso radiators are made in China now, even in applications where Denso is the OE supplier
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I got one of the last Taiwan-made Densos for my car a couple years ago, shortly before they switched to China.

It is also a lot easier to get an OE radiator for GM and Ford than it is to get an OE radiator for a Japanese car! And when you can get a Japanese OEM radiator, they're often $300-500
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FWIW, Rock Auto does have an ACDelco GM OE thick core radiator listed for the 2500 Suburban with the 8.1L V8, but it's over $300. The core on that one is 1-3/8" or 1.375"

It looks like Denso is consolidating the 1500 and 2500 radiators. One thing to know is that Denso doesn't include a cap with their radiators, so you will have to purchase one separately. Rock Auto carries an OEM cap.

Does your car still have the original radiator? Or has it been replaced before?

Rock Auto also has a Liland radiator that is all-aluminum. Core is 1.26 in
 
No cap. It has the cap on the plastic surge tank.

Wow, I just looked at the 8.1l for the 2500's. It's taller and wider too! I wonder if it would fit without modifications.

Gonna research that. But like you said, the price jumped!.... a lot
 
I don't know how obsessed you want to get with cooling, but if you do decide to go with the 8.1 radiator and shroud, I can tell you which fan clutch to use to mount up a Duramax fan.

Friend of mine has an 01 Suburban 8.1. I dug through the Hayden fan clutch specs catalog and found out how to mount up the Duramax fan. When he pulls away from his driveway it clears his drive of leaves.

The Duramax fan was a perfect fit. Better even than the metal paddle blade that came from the factory.
 
Hahahaha. Now I want the DMax fan!
I want to clear the leaves in my driveway. That would be Awesome!

I'll keep that in mind. If I get a newer truck in a few years, I'll convert the suburban into a B.O.V.
and definitely put in the DMax fan, 4l80E, lift kit

Glad to know that is an option.
Thanks,
 
My friend also moves a lot of heavy boats and was always wondering why his truck seemed to be hovering around 210°F when he has a 180°F thermostat.

That concern has been banished forever.
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