Radiator for '94 Grand Am GT

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The plastic tank on my radiator is cracked and leaking. Is it possible to reliably fix the plastic or is buying a new one typically the best bet? It's the original radiator. I just replaced the water pump, coolant, and hoses a short while ago. Good thing I ordered an extra gallon of the AMSOIL a/f.

What is "book" time for replacing a radiator on a GM 3.1L V6?

Any advice on where to (not) buy/particular brands, etc.? Are they all pretty much the same? Made in USA, or at least not China, by any chance?
 
I wouldn't repair a plastic tank radiator on a 14 year old car myself. You can get a non Asian radiator but be prepared to pay thru the nose for the difference.
 
It's not worth it to change the tank. A new tank costs me $60 and I will charge you an hour labor to change it $85.

85+60=$145 before my markup on the tank plus no warranty. I can sell you a SPI, Visteon or Valeo rad for about $160 and it has a 2yr warranty.

The import rads are about $20 cheaper.

Ok so lets say I install the new tank..........3 weeks later the other tank cracks...Another $145 so now your into the rad $290...............Could have bought 2 new rads.

FWIW most tanks last 100K. I know some go longer and others shorter but I'd say 90% of the cars I get in the shop are at 100K.
 
I will probably get a new complete radiator from Napa for $136 with lifetime warranty and made in Mexico (same as ReadyRad). It looks just like the ReadyRad (Proliance) that AAP & O'Reilly had for $170 and Carquest for $144 but only 1-year warranty. AutoZone had a Transpro for $158 with lifetime warranty. They also had a SPI with lifetime warranty and a Visteon with a 3-year warranty, $190 each but special order. Any reason I should go with one of these two more expensive brands over the NAPA? They all have the TOC (transmission oil cooler) adapters included.
 
It may be made in Mexico, but the lifetime warranty is the most important attribute. I say go with the NAPA and save your receipt.
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It comes with new TOC adapters that thread into the new tank & the existing oil lines thread into the new TOC adapters. What kind of tightening force is needed on each? Anything need to be applied to any of the threads?
 
I'd say about 20 foot pounds or less. Just hook a regular length wrench on there and give them a good sinching using your wrist power. They should come to an abrupt stop before they're all the way tight. If you have a flare nut wrench, which tend to be shorter in length, as much as you can muster with that tends to be good.

A couple of wraps with Teflon tape should be good. Pull the tape tight as you're wrapping it.
 
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