Race oil vs. Street Oil

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What are the main differences between a syn race and a syn street oil? what re the advantages and disadvantages of both? i am contemplating running race oil in my little sleeper car, but dont want to spend the extra money for nothing.
 
What little sleeper are we talking about? Do you race it, drive hard on a daily basis?

I can tell you that I have a 2.0 turbo that is faster then a new STi and I run supertech syn and I do 3K oil changes.

No matter what you drive, if it is a street car, Mobil 1, Amsoil, or Redline should be able to cover any needs your car might have.
 
How much horsepower does your eclipse have??? Faster than an STi? You must be running major boost. If all this is true you should be running Redline IMO
 
Redline, on their website, does not recommend their Racing oil for street use as it does not have the ad pack needed for an oil that stays in the engine.
Racing oil is usually changed out after a race.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Gilitar:
How much horsepower does your eclipse have??? Faster than an STi? You must be running major boost. If all this is true you should be running Redline IMO

Acually, no more then 18psi, but I have ODB1 and 1 high flow cat, and my intake and IC upgrades are better then a stock STi. My car is tunned pretty decent and the power curve on it is just different. I bought a big 16G ported and clipped off of a friend that was used for one month on his car when he killed his trans and he sold it to me and that thing just keeps pulling and pulling to redline. At the time it was a $850 turbo, but I paid $650 for it. The cost of turbo's have gone down now, but at the time, they were still a little costly. I'd prolly choose the EVO III turbo if I needed a new one today. The closer it gets to redline, the faster the thing goes. It's sort of a strange feeling. I don't know what size the stock exhaust on a STi is, but I have a turbo back 2.5 and I don't have a turbo pre-cat, followed by two other cats. I got to drive the STi too and it's a fun car and acually has more instant torque then I do, but 1st, 2nd, and 3rd gear is really short, so you gotta work the gears pretty quickly. I don't know what 4th runs out too, but I wouldn't be too surprized if it reved out to 120+MPH.

I have no ideal how much HP my car has and I don't know of any instate AWD dyno. It's acually just a street car and I just happen to know someone with a STi. Stock they are not that fast compared to built up DSMs. I have gotten my *** handed to me by modded ones. I think they can get a 80HP gain from exhaust work and a ECU reflash. I ran in to a real nasty one in Chicago that probably ran 11s 1/4s at least.

For DSMs getting them in to the 12s is nothing anymore. It can even be done without biggy back systems now. You can have ECU chips talored to different intake mafs, injectors, ect. All you pretty much "need" is a new ECU chip and a AFPR. As long as you have a strong engine to deal with, all it takes it bolt ons and at this point in the game, a strong cluch and probably a rebuilt trans so you can shift quickly.

Anyway, running 18psi on the turbo I have is nothing. It's not overworking it at all. If it was a stock turbo, I'd expect a short life, but I've had this turbo for many years now, and it still runs really strong.

I havn't changed the stock rev limiter, my turbo doesn't get too hot because 18psi is not overworking it, so buying the most exspenstive oil on the market is not needed. My engine is acually stock, but I am going to star building a stronger engine later this year. We are buying a house with a work shop, so if I build up a 450-500HP and invest a lot of money in a new engine, then I might consitor different oil, but so far, what I'm using is working. The 4g63t has lots of needs, but as long as you take care of it, it will take care of you and it is a VERY stout engine.
 
It was said earlier, racing oils don't include the additives that regular street oils do. When the engine's doing a race, the only thing the oil has to do is keep the moving parts apart. Additives displace oil and compromise this function. It's the oil, not the additives that provide lubrication.

In a street engine, stresses are not such that the degradation of the lubricating function makes a significant lubrication difference. The additives, OTOH, protect the engine from metal eating corrosion during the long periods of time between oil changes.

Regards, Gary in Sandy Eggo
 
Which additives are missing from Race oil?

I would assume that the dispersants are missing.
Thus, sludge could become a problem if using Race oil for long OCI. What else is missing from race oil?
 
Watch the blanket statements. Royal Purple, Amsoil, Valvoline, and Mobil, among others, have racing oils that are fully formulated and suitable for street use.

Ed
 
quote:

Originally posted by simple_gifts:

quote:


Which additives are missing from Race oil?

detergents?


That is missing from redline racing oils. You can read it on redlines web page.

What I want to know is what the original poster is running and why he is so interested in racing oil in a street car.

I think for most everyone on the street, Mobil 1 is going to be enough. Porsche, BMW, Dodge Viper, and even the Mitsu EVO run with Mobil 1. Now, these car manufactures have a 36K 3 year warranty to uphold and some of them might offer a longer powertrain warranty. They have a lot of money in stake and you gotta ask yourself, if Mobil 1 is good enough for high end performance cars, isn't it good enough for your car?

I know that redline, royal purple and others are players in high end oil too, but where do you draw the line? Seeing you can get 5qt jugs at Wally World for pretty cheap (even 15w50) I think you gotta be running something with a lot of money involved to need more protection then what M1 can give you.

If you are interested in going the longest without a oil change, then look in to Amsoil. If you just need protection from extreme heat, then M1 should have you covered.
 
I think Ed is right here. The concept of "racing" oil has become a little fuzzy, and you need to know both the oil and your specific needs.

A bona fide racing oil will have no detergents and is only for getting a custom built and clearanced race engine (not just some bolt on mods to a production block) through an event day with maximum crank output. But many other "racing" oils are nearer in composition to normal street grades, are marketed to the weekend tracker driving a production built engine, have some detergency, and can be left in the crankcase for when you drive it to work the rest of the week.

My guess is that you have the latter situation, and will do just fine with one of the top OTC full synthetics already mentioned. Redline's multivis oils are good choices. I would not run a true racing oil in a street engine or application.
 
Several of the teams that were running at Sebring this year, running Red Line oil were using the street version. I was envolved in a program to develop a windage tray for the oil pan and we always used the street version of Red Line. It's pretty good oil, as is.
 
Quote:


Several of the teams that were running at Sebring this year, running Red Line oil were using the street version. I was envolved in a program to develop a windage tray for the oil pan and we always used the street version of Red Line. It's pretty good oil, as is.





I was watching a great show on Discovery HD on the Vette. They showed a guy putting RL in the crankcase.
 
redline racing oils the only difference is the low tbn of 2 and has all the additives in it but low detergents..i mix one qt 30w in my street oil...dave at redline should be just fine
 
From a paper entitle, "Oils : What motor oil is best for my Porche (or air cooled engine)?", by Charles Navarro (http://www.Inengineering.com/oil.html), It has this to say...

"For those who don't know why a racing oil would have less detergents, it has been suggested in various SAE journals that detergents can interact with anti-wear additives and prevent the AW from forming."

"...we discovered that too aggressive of a detergent package can literally 'clean' the AW films off parts as they are formed. For that reason alone, many racing oils have less detergency than street oils or even omit detergents all together."

He also goes to say that one can use racing oils, but recommends that the oil change interval must be reduced according.

Take care.
 
Mobil1 stated as much (little or no detergent additive) on their website when they sold their 0W-30 racing oil...

I don't think it's recommended for a daily driver or "sleeper."

You'd be better off with a nice SL/SM synthetic like GC 0W-30, AMSOIL Series 2000, or M1 0W-40 in that engine...
 
Itt is probable that the addition of either LOB or HOB calcium sulfonate of ZDDP will result in a decrease in antiwear effectiveness of the additives.
This is why detergents are not used in racing formulas.
 
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