Questions about new ford 2.3

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Hi All, Just bought a new Ranger with the 2.3. The oil cap and the owner's manual say 5w-20. Problem is my stash is all 5w-30. Owner's manual doesn't state 30 will void warranty, but I want to be careful. Can I use my stash for oil changes, or is it best to start hunting for 5w-20? Also, and I realize this is more mechanical related, is it best practice to do first change @ 1000 miles to get rid of any metal particles? I've also seen two schools of thought on engine break-in which fall under the treat-it-gentle category or the (less common) drive-it-like-you-stole-it category. Any thoughts?? Thanks
 
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Start hunting for 5W-20. Don't 'tempt' warranty troubles with a new vehicle. Hard break-ins 'seem' to make for a 'healthier' engine later on that consumes less oil.
 
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I haven't heard of a single failure in engines that use the 20wt that were spec'd for it. Also, with advanced machining techniques nowadays, you could safely do half a recommended OCI on the FF with no worries. Heck, you could probably do a full OCI w/ FF and be just fine. Break in advice will run the gamit but I usually take it easy for the first 2k miles - try to work in some hills if possible, does wonders for the ring pack.
 
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 Originally Posted By: addyguy
Start hunting for 5W-20. Don't 'tempt' warranty troubles with a new vehicle. Hard break-ins 'seem' to make for a 'healthier' engine later on that consumes less oil.
+1
 
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The best longest running engines I have seen, 400,000 miles and up, were driven by my Father. His "break in" method was an OCI at 1000 miles, then lots of long highway runs. The first NEW car he bought lasted upwards of 400,000 miles. The speedometer and odometer went out and he never fixed them for years, so he thinks it was closer to 450 or 500 thousand miles. It was an 89 chevy Astro Van. The first thing we did was go on a cross country trip. He has been going through used cars, but recently got a Chevy Trailblazer. The first thing he did... drive cross country. I would personally stick with 5w20 for the time being. I know it is blasphomy but I would also talk to the dealership about oil change deals. My father gets an oil change for $20 at the dealership where he bought his chevy. Sure, you can do it yourself, but a fast oil change for $20, and they update the vehicle history, is hard to beat. If you get the deal, just go with Dealership oil and 3-4000 mile OCI's. I know the OLM will only be down to 60%, but hey, warrentys are great.
 
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Both. Don't be afraid to use the current stash and start buying up 5w-20. As to breakin, you'll hear success from both camps. I'm sure you'll be fine either way. Just don't stay at constant RPM (like use cruise control).
 
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I would be more worried about the transmission. The setup on the 4 cylinder rangers is weak in the trans. If it is a automatic I would change the ATF every 15k.
 
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I surely hope that you do not have the problem that I had with my 2001 ranger 2.3 5speed auto. It overheated constantly for the 3 years that I owned it. I had the thermostat replaced 3 times at the dealer and it did not help 1 bit. If I drove at highway speeds and came to a stop light...it would boil over and out of the clear holding tank. THEN the 2nd stage of the thermostat would open and the temp would drop all the way to the cold mark on the temp gauge. This was the pattern for 3 years until I traded it on a ranger with the vulcan v6 with a conventional thermostat.
 

jhMalibu

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Wow, that doesn't sound good (ATF changes @ 15K). I think I'll go the dealer route for changes so that I establish a service record. Thanks everyone.
 
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Unfortunately the dealership is the worst place to go. They will say it is not necessary then when you have a problem out of warranty they will not stand behind it.
 
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Use the 5w-20. I've got a Ranger with the same engine and now have 40k miles of PERFECT relibility and smooth function using a 5w-20 oil. My advice would be to use a Motorcraft filter (superior drain-back valve and just seems to work very well with Fords) and at least the Motorcraft Blend oil. I've always used synthetic oil in mine. As long as you do regular oil changes and other fluids, per the OEM schedule, you'll be fine. The Ranger is a great little truck and I've never heard of any mechanical issues with the latest models (last 5 years).
 
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Also, and I realize this is more mechanical related, is it best practice to do first change @ 1000 miles to get rid of any metal particles? I've also seen two schools of thought on engine break-in which fall under the treat-it-gentle category or the (less common) drive-it-like-you-stole-it category. Any thoughts?? I forgot to comment on this subject... I would change out the factory fill at either 500 or 1,000 miles and then change it out again at 2 to 3k. After that follow a regular OCI. From all that I've read Ford does not use any special additives nor do they advise leaving the factory fill in any special length of time (like Honda does). As for driving the first 500 miles...I would vary the driving during that time and never do the 'drove it like you stole it' thing. That's just about the worst thing you can do. Certainly don't lug the engine, and be sure to drive up and down lots of hills....but don't floor it just yet. After 500 miles (and perhaps an oil change) I would do 3/4 throttle burts from about 40mph to 65mph on the open highway. Just do that about three or four times a day during your commute. After 1k miles drive the truck normally. Just my opinions.
 
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andrewg said: I would change out the factory fill at either 500 or 1,000 miles and then change it out again at 2 to 3k. After that follow a regular OCI.....That made me think that the second oil change above he is not running FF /factory fill formula. We are assuming the FF is a special break in oil. Then I remembered that Royal Purple now sells 'break in oil'. I guess that means for new engines or for new overhauled engines. I can try to dig up a link if you are interested. Jim
 
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I just changed my factory fill on my 2009 F-150 w/5.4 @ 2k and it was dark.I used a Filtermag on the filter and it was full of break in metal when I cut it open. I poured in Schaeffer 7000 series 5w20 and used a Amsoil EA filter on it and put the Filtermag back on. My engine was very quiet after that.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Jim Spahr
andrewg said: I would change out the factory fill at either 500 or 1,000 miles and then change it out again at 2 to 3k. After that follow a regular OCI.....That made me think that the second oil change above he is not running FF /factory fill formula. We are assuming the FF is a special break in oil. Then I remembered that Royal Purple now sells 'break in oil'. I guess that means for new engines or for new overhauled engines. I can try to dig up a link if you are interested. Jim
Well, I have no assumption that the factory fill in a Ford Ranger has any special additives or chemicals added. From what I understand most Ford's come from the factory with Motorcraft blend in the sump...nothing more. While some may subscribe to the idea that the metal abrasives themselves in a new engine may have something to do with breaking in an engine, I've seen nothing definitive about this. Lubes, sealants, and other foreign matter as well as the break-in wear metals should be removed in my humble opinion at 500 to 1k miles....unless the manufacturer states otherwise. If I recall correctly Honda does not recommend that you change out the FF in their cars until at least 5k miles. An analysis did show some high levels of moly in Honda's FF so I can only assume that they have a valid reason for this. Ford has not stated anything similar.
 
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