Quaker State Full Synthetic

[crashz]

Well I'm at a good mileage to do a UOA with the QS, so I think I will and post the results.

I have to confess though, I was picking up a couple of motorcraft filters for the truck and found M1 10w-30 in the 5 quart jugs for $14.88. Obviously I couldn't pass it up, so I picked up two of them. I was actually thinking of using it in my girlfriends 98 beetle (which has some major sludge issues) to clean it out a bit. Instead I may keep it for my truck and give her car an AutoRx treatment.

The 0w-40 looked tempting, but I read here that it slips out of grade quickly and loses TBN fast. Somebody posted that UOAs proved that the life of it was only about 5000 miles. Of course for my drain intervals, that would be fine.

What about D1 5w-40? Does anyone think that would be a bad choice in a truck that specs 5w-20? The 40wt in the M1 and D1 scare me a little.

 

[Mystic]

If your truck runs good on Royal Purple, one way you can get that oil is through JC Whitney. They have been advertising RP oil recently. Some people at this site have said that RP is great, but UOAs on the oil have not looked very encouraging.

Mobil 1 10W30 might be a good choice. You might want to try Amsoil and Schaeffer's also.

 

[Patman]

If anyone in Canada wants to try out this oil it's on sale at Canadian Tire starting on Saturday (Aug 2) for $6.29 per liter.

 

[Al]

If you want to thicken the Mobil 1 up a bit, just put a quart or two of the 15W-50 in with the 10W-30 stuff. A 25% solution of the 15W will get you in the upper range of 30 wt. A 50/50 will probably put you close or in the 40 wt range.

The two wts are totally compatible. I use a 25% solution on my 22RE engine. Even the Mobil tech reps won't give any negative static and tell you it can be mixed. Of course they won't endorse the concept for liability reasons.

 

[Ken2]

Mixing oils of different viscosities does not yield an oil with the arithmetic average viscosity. Here's the chart for mixing straight weight oils (page 9): http://www.ethyl.com/products/la/handbook/Viscosity.pdf

I don't think that there is a chart for the results of mixing multi-viscosity oils.

Why not use Schaeffer #703 10W-30? It's better quality than the QS and higher vis than the Mobil1, while lower cost. Or, just add Schaeffer #132 Moly E.P. Oil Treatment to your choice of top quality conventional oil...the price is right and it works very well. The only advantage I've seen to most synthetics is better low temperature operation.


Ken

 

[crashz]

Hi - I've been reading this forum for almost a year and all I can say is that you guys are an incredible source of information. I've learned more about lubrication here than I have in my 6 years of college (Civil Engineer).

Well to start out - I own a 2001 F150 V6 4x4 with about 66,000 easy highway miles. The truck does no towing or hauling and has a 30 mile round trip commute everyday. I've done some pretty stupid things to it (**** Prolong commercials are so convincing) Aka - I have treated it with Duralube and Prolong (long before I found this site). But have also fed it a healthy diet of Mobil 1 5w-30, Royal Purple 5w-30 or QS full syn.5w-30.

Now here is my issue: Mobil 1 is a great oil, just to thin in my truck. My truck makes more noise and vibrations with it. RP seems to run great in this, very smooth and quiet, but it hard to obtain. QS is to be somewhere in the middle. I have tried the Castrol Syntec 5w-30, but it seems to thick, it actually felt like it thinned out after 1000 miles or so.

My ulimate goal is to find an easily obtainable, highly regarded, full synthetic that with protect my truck (I want to get to 300K with this truck)and run smooth. I have been useing 5k intervals because I keep switching the 3 brands, but would consider longer drains, if I can find the right oil. Could anyone shed some light on the QS and RP? Is RP worth buying in bulk? I don't see to much on this oil.


Leo

 

[MikeW]

M1 0W40?

 

[csandste]

First I heard that QS was group 4, then group 3, then group 4 again. There seems to be remarkably little attention paid to QS on this board despite the fact that it's the #2 brand in America (dino). Why don't you do a UOA and see how it works?

 

[Spector]

With your warranty having expired how about an M1 higher viscocity, 10W30 or 15W50? That should run smooth. The Mobil 1 10W30 appears to be getting good UOA results on this board.

 

[crashz]

Well - again I'm looking for a over the counter synthetic, so Mobil seems to be the best compromise. I can't really store any oil in my apartment, so ordering my oil in bulk would be difficult at best.

The M1 10w-30 runs very smooth in my engine, which surprises me because its shouldn't run any different than 5w-30 as the 100C viscosity is virtually the same.

The Shaeffers 132 looks interesting but I have no idea what it is and where to buy it. (?)

 

[williar]

If you do 3K oil changes, I'd stick with a conventional 10w30, such as Chevron or Pennzoil. You'll get excellent results at a good price. That's what I do in my C2500. If you really want synthetic, then try the M1 10w30.

 

[Patman]

quote:

---

Originally posted by crashz:
Well - again I'm looking for a over the counter synthetic, so Mobil seems to be the best compromise. I can't really store any oil in my apartment, so ordering my oil in bulk would be difficult at best.

The M1 10w-30 runs very smooth in my engine, which surprises me because its shouldn't run any different than 5w-30 as the 100C viscosity is virtually the same.

The Shaeffers 132 looks interesting but I have no idea what it is and where to buy it. (?)

---

If you scroll up to the very top of this topic, look in the left hand corner, and you'll see the ad for Mill's Outdoor Power Equipment. Give Tim a call there to order any Schaeffer products you need, including the 132.