QS UD 10w30, 2992 Miles, 95 Jeep Wrangler

[OhioYJ]

QS UD 10w30, 2992 Miles, 95 Jeep So recently had to put a "new" motor in my 95 Wrangler, 4.0. I went the first 500 miles on conventional Mobil Clean 5000, Rislone Oil Supplement, with Zinc, WIX filter. The next ~3000 miles were on Quaker State Synthetic, UD 10w30, Rislone Zinc treatment again, and WIX filter. (So 3492 miles total on this engine) I used the $14 Napa kit for the oil analysis. The mileage is wrong on this report: Full PDF of the results here. I'm very new to this, but I believe using silicone gasket maker in several spots on the motor during assembly could be the cause of the high silicone content? I will be changing the air filter though to be safe. Is that iron number high or typical on new motors? I'm now on Mobil 1 10w30, still using the Rislone treatment for the zinc, which is what I plan on staying with. I planned on riding this one out for 5000 miles if you all think that would be ok?` Anyone else see anything I should be concerned with? (Yes I know use of images is discouraged, I'll work on a code block and update the post)

 

[440Magnum]

Silicon can come from new gasket sealer, iron is a typical break-in metal. I personally don't see anything scary. The Rislone sure shows up in the P/Zn numbers! Good to see that its actually doing something other than draining your wallet! My advice for 4.0 owners is always the same, though: switch to Rotella T6 5w40 (or your favorite synthetic or semi-syn heavy duty/diesel engine oil) after break in and add no supplements to it.

 

[OhioYJ]

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum

My advice for 4.0 owners is always the same, though: switch to Rotella T6 5w40 (or your favorite synthetic or semi-syn heavy duty/diesel engine oil) after break in and add no supplements to it.

Thank you, that gives me some peace of mind, I've read the articles on here, but it was still my first analysis. My Amsoil guy was yelling at my about using the additive too. I've only been using the additive because one of the big 4.0 engine makers recommends always running the zinc additive? I was running diesel oil on the old motor, but it seemed like several manufactures pulled the zinc out of the diesel oils? Forgive my ignorance, but why switch to the synthetic diesel oil, over the Mobil 1 I'm currently running? Will the Silicone taper off as time passes, or will it always be high while the sealer is there? I take it contamination from the silicone gasket maker is not harmful?

 

[Oub]

Hi Ohio please remove your name and adress from pdf file

 

[OhioYJ]

Originally Posted By: Oub

Hi Ohio please remove your name and adress from pdf file

Thanks, Good call on that one. I've temporarily deleted the report from my web server, until I get home and can uploaded a modified version!

 

[Brons2]

I agree with the Rotella syn recommendation as well, or Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck. As for the pulling out zinc, not so much, diesel oils are still over PCMO limits on ZDDP.

 

[Xstang]

Originally Posted By: OhioYJ

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum

My advice for 4.0 owners is always the same, though: switch to Rotella T6 5w40 (or your favorite synthetic or semi-syn heavy duty/diesel engine oil) after break in and add no supplements to it.

Thank you, that gives me some peace of mind, I've read the articles on here, but it was still my first analysis. My Amsoil guy was yelling at my about using the additive too. I've only been using the additive because one of the big 4.0 engine makers recommends always running the zinc additive? I was running diesel oil on the old motor, but it seemed like several manufactures pulled the zinc out of the diesel oils? Forgive my ignorance, but why switch to the synthetic diesel oil, over the Mobil 1 I'm currently running? Will the Silicone taper off as time passes, or will it always be high while the sealer is there? I take it contamination from the silicone gasket maker is not harmful?

Most any "diesel" oil has plenty of zinc already in the bottle, without having to pay for some magic fix in a bottle. I don't think it harmed your engine or anything-just your wallet lol. For example, Rotella T6 has about 1250 ppm zinc. Most other 40wt oils are pretty high as well. From what I've gotten from a few 4.0 owners out there is that a thicker oil runs really well in these engines. I have a friend with a '92 Cherokee with 125k (ex grandma car) that had issues with consumption and smoking/blow-by all the time. Switching to 10w-40 Kendall, that for the most part went away-still some leaking from the rear main seal, but that's another story Silicone? Factory engines will read high as well. IHMO, I would expect Fe/Si levels to be high for a bit, but eventually trend downward until the 20k mark. Silicone is what sand is mostly made up of for example. Could cause extra wear. Might be a good idea to clean out the air intake tract-could be coming from there.

 

[addyguy]

I'm just going to add to the chorus: Use a 5W-40 HDEO like Rotella T6 5W-40, or Delvac 1 5W-40, or M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40. Like others I AM glad to see that the Rislone stuff is the 'real deal', and does actually add Zn/Ph to the oil in noticeable amounts.

 

[Lead Shoes]

Did you add the entire large bottle to the sump to achieve those P/Zn amounts or just follow the directions of how many ounces per quart to add?

 

[KCJeep]

How'd that Napa kit work out for you? There has been a lot of confusion on here about whether or not the $14 is just for the kit and if they charge you again for the analysis.

 

[OhioYJ]

Originally Posted By: Brenden

Did you add the entire large bottle to the sump to achieve those P/Zn amounts or just follow the directions of how many ounces per quart to add?

I added the entire bottle. 5 quarts of 10w30, 1 quart of Rislone.

 

[OhioYJ]

Originally Posted By: KCJeep

How'd that Napa kit work out for you? There has been a lot of confusion on here about whether or not the $14 is just for the kit and if they charge you again for the analysis.

It's just the $14-17 depending on the Napa you get it from. The analysis is included. The only other thing you have to pay for is postage. The bottle has a spot to place two stamps, but I took it into the Post Office and it was ~$2 and change to mail it, so I doubt two stamps would get it there.

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: OhioYJ

Originally Posted By: KCJeep

How'd that Napa kit work out for you? There has been a lot of confusion on here about whether or not the $14 is just for the kit and if they charge you again for the analysis.

It's just the $14-17 depending on the Napa you get it from. The analysis is included. The only other thing you have to pay for is postage. The bottle has a spot to place two stamps, but I took it into the Post Office and it was ~$2 and change to mail it, so I doubt two stamps would get it there.

Thanks I'd been told both ways, good to know, a bargain then I may try one next time around.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: OhioYJ

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum

My advice for 4.0 owners is always the same, though: switch to Rotella T6 5w40 (or your favorite synthetic or semi-syn heavy duty/diesel engine oil) after break in and add no supplements to it.

Thank you, that gives me some peace of mind, I've read the articles on here, but it was still my first analysis. My Amsoil guy was yelling at my about using the additive too. I've only been using the additive because one of the big 4.0 engine makers recommends always running the zinc additive? I was running diesel oil on the old motor, but it seemed like several manufactures pulled the zinc out of the diesel oils? Forgive my ignorance, but why switch to the synthetic diesel oil, over the Mobil 1 I'm currently running? Will the Silicone taper off as time passes, or will it always be high while the sealer is there? I take it contamination from the silicone gasket maker is not harmful?

"Diesel" (heavy duty) engine oils are still allowed higher zinc levels even in SN/CJ-4 API rating than passenger car oils, usually because they do NOT also carry some of the newer and more restrictive ACEA and ILSAC passenger car ratings. T6 and M1 TDT right off the shelf today still have around 1200 PPM of ZDDP, compared with maybe 800 for M1 10w30 passenger car oil. The M1 10w30 is a fine oil, and in all honesty a well broken-in 4.0 would be just fine on it with no additive. But 4.0's don't mind the thicker HD oils (some engines have excessive oil pressure or poorer oil flow with thicker oil) and the extra zinc/phos doesn't can potentially beneefit them, especially a recent rebuild like yours. So there's no real downside to using it. As for the silicon, it will definitely taper over time. It should be down to normal range by 2-3 oil change intervals.

 

[fdcg27]

Since you put new in quotes, I'm curious as to where this engine came from. Is it a fresh rebuild, or a used unit? If it's a fresh rebuild, this report looks really good. The high silicon is just from leaching RTV sealant, and the iron is not a concern. The cost of this UOA was reasonable, especially since it included TBN. Blackstone customers should check this out.

 

[crazyoildude]

use good ol dino 10w30 in that engine with a good filter and it will run well for a long time as long as it was built to specs. just use oil, there is no need to use anything else. when we rebuild engines we tell the customer only to use oil anything else mixed in will void the warranty. what went wrong with the old 4.0 they are pretty good engines except for maybe a few with cracked heads.

 

[dave1251]

Originally Posted By: crazyoildude

use good ol dino 10w30 in that engine with a good filter and it will run well for a long time as long as it was built to specs. just use oil, there is no need to use anything else. when we rebuild engines we tell the customer only to use oil anything else mixed in will void the warranty. what went wrong with the old 4.0 they are pretty good engines except for maybe a few with cracked heads.

This is the best advice I have seen this whole thread.

 

[OhioYJ]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27

Since you put new in quotes, I'm curious as to where this engine came from. Is it a fresh rebuild, or a used unit? If it's a fresh rebuild, this report looks really good. The high silicon is just from leaching RTV sealant, and the iron is not a concern. The cost of this UOA was reasonable, especially since it included TBN. Blackstone customers should check this out.

Yes it was a full rebuild, I started off putting a used engine in it, but too many bad signs with the used motor I bought convinced me to cut my loses, and have everything machined. So it's "new", as in rebuilt.

 

[fdcg27]

Thanks. I figured it was probably a fresh rebuild, and I was curious. What lab do you send samples to with the NAPA UOA kit?

 

[Toto]

Originally Posted By: fdcg27

Thanks. I figured it was probably a fresh rebuild, and I was curious. What lab do you send samples to with the NAPA UOA kit?

ALS Tribology-Laboratory Group [they have multiple US locations your choice which particular location to send the sample to.]