PYB 5W-20 7521 miles Kia Sorento 3.5L V-6

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Good morning everyone,

Just got the results back from a UOA I did on my 2011 Kia Sorento. I used ALS Tribology for a change. It's available through NAPA auto for $14.99 here in Tucson, including TBN, so quite a bit less expensive than Blackstone.

On to the actual numbers. I'm a little concerned with Al 16 and Silicon 33. It may just be from the engine still breaking in. We'll see. I still have the original air filter in (undisturbed). I plan on putting in a filterminder to minimize changing/messing with the air filter. I will check the duct work for leaks, but I am skeptical I will find any on a new vehicle.

I am constantly impressed with PYB. No real change in the KV100 viscosity (8.4 to 8.3) with a 3.4 TBN, although I added approximately 3/4 quart over the OCI.

I switched to Mobil 1 0W-20 AFE when I changed the oil. I am not sure I need it with the TBN retention of PYB over the 7500 mile OCI which is the maximum interval I can use while under warranty.

I know that PYB would last for at least 2K more miles. I am thinking about trying Motorcraft SN 5W-20 syn-blend since I have read that it is now 60% Group 3 (Korean Super-S) or the Mobil Super 5000 which may very well last close to 7500 miles here in a warm climate.

Or I may just go back to PYB as it appears to be the gold standard in conventional oils. In spite of the Mobil 1 being 0W-20 I honestly believe the PYB 5W-20 Group II+ conventional with the high moly content actually is smoother and delivers comparable mileage even in ~30 degree mornings we've had here lately.

Anyway, any comments or suggestions are always appreciated.

P.S. I think QSUD, PP, or even PU 5W-20 would be fantastic in this engine if I decided to throw caution to the wind regarding the warranty and extend the OCI 50% to 11250 miles to start. I am on the fence about whether to stay with a premium conventional for 7500 miles or go this route. Time will tell. ;))

P.P.S. Or should I switch back to a good conventional oil and run a shorter interval (3-5K miles) one time and "flush" the engine and see if I can reduce that Al level before going to 7500+ mile OCIs?

Thanks,
Gary

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This is great however the Zinc # seems more than allowed re SN but the other numbers should be break in. Silicon might be like the Calicium and Zinc # not accurate. Hey if it works why change it unless you have extra money to spend in 2012.
 
I would think the engine is close to or done with breakin. The numbers concerning zinc are also considerably higher then other reports.

I would do another OCI with PYB and go 5K miles and have it retested...

Good to see that you can go 7500 miles and the oil still has a high tbn. If the report is accurate, these engine must be easy on motor oil...
 
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Boss302fan,

The engine in the Kia is a port fuel injected version, but other than that I'm not sure it is any easier on oil that any other modern non-DI engine. In fact, it's been my experience that the four cylinder engines, with their higher individual cylinder loads, warm up quicker and deliver higher TBN over the life of the oil that the bigger engines, as well as better wear figures. I just didn't think the four cylinder was enough engine for the Sorento particularly when we travel north to the White Mountains and top 9K feet elevation.

I make sure there is very little idling after cold starts (50 freeway and highway.

And I think, as I have mentioned before, that a warm & dry climate really minimizes the water production and time the engine oil temperature is below the threshold, thereby reducing acid formation and TBN reduction.

Having said that I believe most on this site, being fanatics with their cars, and particularly their oils, prematurely drain them, DI-engine owners exempted (what a mess, that Hyundai Sonata I-4 engine with 5.0% fuel dilution, ugh!!). I think we're the opposite to the general public, who historically leave their oils in forever, well almost.

I really believe that as long as there is some mixed highway/city driving in an engine specified for conventional oil, then a premium SN conventional, such as Motorcraft Syn-Blend, QSGB (QSAD), or of course, the king --PYB will easily last 7500 miles, and more.

And when I get my high (for me) Al and Si readings figured out, I will find out just how long PYB can go. ;-)

Take care,
Gary
 
volk06,

I drained the FF at 764 miles, which I now regret doing so. Changed the oil after that @ 6463, 14196 and finally 21727 miles, so I'm doubtful the high levels are due to the FF.

I've decided to run two short 3750 mile OCIs (7500 miles will only be about four months driving) with PYB, resampling after each, before I decide on whether to change the air filter.

Take care,
Gary
 
Oregoonian,

I believe the KIA OEM cartridge oil filter is Mahle. The air filter is the original KIA as well. I haven't broke apart the box to look at it. I may do that today, to inspect whether dirt is getting by it.

We drive about 30%/70% city and highway, being 3.5 miles from the freeway and living at the edge of town, we utilize the freeway for our into town trips (~20 miles).
 
Originally Posted By: Tucson Five-O
volk06,

I drained the FF at 764 miles, which I now regret doing so. Changed the oil after that @ 6463, 14196 and finally 21727 miles, so I'm doubtful the high levels are due to the FF.

I've decided to run two short 3750 mile OCIs (7500 miles will only be about four months driving) with PYB, resampling after each, before I decide on whether to change the air filter.

Take care,
Gary


whoops, your correct. I read the wrong thing. Thanks for the clarification!
 
Guys,

I just broke the air intake box apart and inspected it. It's clean as a whistle in the duct work with no traces of dust noted. I'm going to leave the original factory air filter element in and get a FilterMinder device to maximize the life and minimize the amount of "fiddling" with the air box and seal.

Next time I'll send a sample to both ALS Tribology and to Blackstone and compare the results. Maybe the high Si was an aberation.

Although the price is right I don't like that ALS doesn't give you flashpoint, fuel content and insolubles. Maybe you do get what you pay for. Additionally, they were much slower returning results. I guess Blackstone has spoiled me. ;))

Gary
 
Years ago I would drain the FF at around 1K, now I let it go until at least 3K... I know more then a handful of engine builders and they all have told me to let the FF go at least 3K-5K miles... A lot of additives that are in the FF and from engine assembly help with breaking in the engine. The oil filters today catch any particles that could effect long term usage. No real reason to really drain it early.

On the Hyundai forum there is a discussion someplace about FF's and a few owners that drained the FF's early have had issues with startup knock. My wife has a 2011 Santa Fe V6 and her engine is quiet and smooth at startup... The FF stayed in until 3K miles and now uses Mobil 1 0W20. I have never had her oil tested though. Now the vehicle has around 10K miles total.
 
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Did you save the photo to an account you have with imageshack or just upload one on their website's default page? If so, it will expire eventually.
 
I've updated your UOA in the OP.

Imageshack is getting less and less friendly. I've noticed that they do the "forbidden image" quite a bit if you don't sign up and even then their service is becoming more and more a problem.

Guess you do get what you pay for here...
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Bill
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On a brand-new vehicle, I wouldn't worry about the numbers. Break-in makes UOA's look wonky a lot of the time.
 
addyguy,

I'm a little more concerned with the high Si than the Al. We drove through many dust storms on I-10 between Tucson and Phoenix last summer.

I'm going to sample the current fill (but not change it) @ 3750 miles with both ALS Tribology and Blackstone and based on the results decide on whether the air filter will be changed.

If a new air filter lowers the Si, maybe that will help with the Al as well, if not I probably will switch up in viscosity to 5W-30.

I should have it figured out within 7500 miles.

Gary
 
Thanks for the report. See my sig. I have the same oil in the same engine. Runs fine now at 38000 km (23K miles). I drained the FF at 5K miles but it was an easy 2 1/2 month summer OCI with a 3000 mile trip to Florida.

I checked my air filter once last summer before an OC and will replace it at the next OC come spring.

BTW, Hyundai Canada sticks to 6000 km/6 months OCI's although I have done 2 this year above 10000 Km (6500 miles).

Makes me wonder how PP would fare better than this if PYB can last 10K miles easy in this application?
 
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