quote:I still have a ton of Green GC which I've been using in our two 2005 Subaru Outbacks 2.5i...and I really have enough Green GC that I thought; 'I should use this stuff up before the bottles start leaking or the stuff gets too old'. I must confess that I haven't production-date sorted the GC to use the oldest first...probably should. At 7K OCI's and three cars using GC, I still have nearly 3 years worth of Green GC on the shelf.
Originally posted by OriginHacker21: Yay -- another GC user! Pretty much same experience with me: car was noticably quiet and moving up the RPM band was very smooth. Are you using GC Gold or GC Green?
Put the green goodness in the 325i vert!
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My 2003 330Ci/auto gets 30-33 on the highway at about 70 mph avg.
I have gotten a high of 34.5 averaging just under 65mph using CG gold.
OFF TOPIC:
Whoo hoo now I can tell my friend (2002 330ci) that he should get GC and maybe his MPG will go up like yours ![[Smile]](images/icons/smile.gif)
. Pretty crazy how you BMW folk pay so much for an oil change at the dealer...
On Topic:
My GC gold Stash has dwindled down to a few oil changes. I've purchased a total of 6 GC Green changes via BITOG... Not sure when I'll use those. Time to go GC hunting again!
. Pretty crazy how you BMW folk pay so much for an oil change at the dealer...
On Topic:
My GC gold Stash has dwindled down to a few oil changes. I've purchased a total of 6 GC Green changes via BITOG... Not sure when I'll use those. Time to go GC hunting again! I think the newer 3 series are more fuel efficient, especially the newest ones.
I think the latest version of Syntec 0W-30 at Autozone might be as good as, or nearly as good as the green.
I wouldn't be suprised if Castrol made a better version. And then again, I wouldn't be suprised if Castrol made a new version that was terrible.
You realize, of course, that you are in serious non-compiiance with the owner's manual recommendations. What makes you think that you know more about oil and lubrication than BMW engineers? Simple hubris, I believe, and therein lies the path to destruction. ![[crushedcar]](/forums/graemlins/crushedcar.gif)
Since I have owned my 95 525i BMW, it has never been to the dealer for an oil change.
BTW, I am currently using castrol 5w50. May do a brew next of 3 qts of castrol 0w30 and 3 qts of castrol 5w50. Not sure what viscosity etc, I would get? Anyone know?
quote:BMW recommends all grades for the M50 motor but it seems a 40 weight is ideal in most normal conditions. Also the Vanos unit is much quieter with a 0w/5w. In our `93 325is with ~143k on the clock I run Lubro Moly 5w40. I could use GC 0w30 as I have that in our `02 325iT and `05 F-150 V6 but I felt safe going a bit thicker. The GC 0w30 is robust and near 40 weight so I doubt he will have any issues as these motors will go a long time under the life of Jiffy Lube's choices let alone an oil nut. Also, an auto 325ic is not typically tracked and living at redline where a thicker oil may be helpful. How many miles are on the car btw? Good to hear your getting fresh fluid in the tranny, those GM's aren't known to last forever. A synthetic 75w90 works well in the diff. Also make sure the cooling system (t-stat, waterpump, radiator) is in order as that is a weak point on E36's. If it hasn't yet it's probably time for new bushings all around, rear shock mounts and front control arms w/ ball joints and a possibility of new shocks/springs. Also NGK spark plugs work well with the 24 valve motors. While 89 octane can get by I would highly recommend 91 with that engine's 10.5:1 compression ratio. Don't feel afraid to take it up to redline, I have seen more issues on BMW's that are driven gingerly than ones that are routinely opened up. [ July 19, 2006, 09:23 PM: Message edited by: windnsea00 ]
Originally posted by Ken E.: You realize, of course, that you are in serious non-compiiance with the owner's manual recommendations. What makes you think that you know more about oil and lubrication than BMW engineers? Simple hubris, I believe, and therein lies the path to destruction.
quote:The owners manual does not list the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 as an apporpriate oil...the manual clearly lists heavier oils and I always have always liked heavier oils. BMW now approves one oil and weight for BMW's , the BMW 5W-30 made by Castrol and it is probably closest to the Castrol Softec 5W-30. The dealer I spoke to also said that a 15W-40 like Rotella is also an option if the car has leaky gaskets. Castrol Syntec 0W-30 [including the green GC] is on the BMW approved list and has the BMW LL-01 rating as well as the ACEA A3 rating. So I'm looking at an oil that is just barely thick enough and meets all approvals. I'm using the oil in an engine which has a chain driven variable valve timing system [ VANOS ], and the VANOS system is quieter with a thin oil. I did lots of research, wanting to use GC but biased towards thicker oil like Redline 10W-40 which works extremely well in my other BMW. The GC 0W-30 came out as a valid option, so... I'll give the GC a shot. First impression is that with GC the car and engine feels, sounds, and drives right...and time and UOA's will tell.
Originally posted by Ken E.: You realize, of course, that you are in serious non-compiiance with the owner's manual recommendations. What makes you think that you know more about oil and lubrication than BMW engineers? Simple hubris, I believe, and therein lies the path to destruction.
quote:Nearly 153K on the car. I did all the filters and fluids, Redline 75W-90 in the diff, ATE Super Blue, Castrol Dexron III / Mercon (h). I did the T-Stat, switched to the metal T-Stat housing, new composite water pump, new belts and tensioners. Radiator was in good shape, but I did get a new expansion tank cap. I used the original spec Bosch plug with fresh boots. I also did new Bilstein Sports F&R and all new upper mounts and reinforcements, Front LCA M3 offset bushings, Rear Trailing Arm polyurethane bushings, and new rear lower control arms and bushings. And lots of other work to freshen up the car...it was money well spent! The car looks great and is fun to drive. Since this is a vert, I'm trying to make it a go cart. If I was tracking it, or driving it hard I still think I'd go Redline 5W-40 or 10W-40. I redline the engine frequently, and it sounds great...but that's not the same as driving at the track. [ July 19, 2006, 11:38 PM: Message edited by: Thatwouldbegreat ]
Originally posted by windnsea00: How many miles are on the car btw? Good to hear your getting fresh fluid in the tranny, those GM's aren't known to last forever. A synthetic 75w90 works well in the diff. Also make sure the cooling system (t-stat, waterpump, radiator) is in order as that is a weak point on E36's. If it hasn't yet it's probably time for new bushings all around, rear shock mounts and front control arms w/ ball joints and a possibility of new shocks/springs. Also NGK spark plugs work well with the 24 valve motors. While 89 octane can get by I would highly recommend 91 with that engine's 10.5:1 compression ratio. Don't feel afraid to take it up to redline, I have seen more issues on BMW's that are driven gingerly than ones that are routinely opened up. [/QB]
After many posts and much debate I finally felt the GC 0W-30 was OK for the 1995 BMW 325i convertible.
Car also received the normal dose of LC-20 and FP-60.
So my stash of Redline 10W-40 goes in the 1986 BMW 325es and the M50 motor in the newer car gets the green 'made by elves' oil. I'll run a UOA at 7K.
So far so good, engine starts up super quiet and accelerates smoothly.
The car has come a long way in 7 weeks and 4000 miles since I bought it. The ARX clean and rinse is finished and the engine runs great. ARX really works!
I can't really tell much about the mpg benefits since I don't have the ownership experience... but my guess is that fuel economy improved by at least 1 mpg or more.
As I rack up the miles I can compare notes with other BMW 325i owners who typically post 19-22 mpg city and 25-27 mpg hwy. I'm at 22-23 city / 26-28 hwy.
I also ARX'ed the automatic trans and did the filter and multiple drain and fills wth Castrol Dexron III/ Mercon (h)and after 2000 miles of driving the transmission is running just right.
So here's a big thanks to everyone at BITOG for all the good advice and product reccomendations! The ARX, LC-20, FP-60 and GC do everything that people said they would.
Car also received the normal dose of LC-20 and FP-60.
So my stash of Redline 10W-40 goes in the 1986 BMW 325es and the M50 motor in the newer car gets the green 'made by elves' oil. I'll run a UOA at 7K.
So far so good, engine starts up super quiet and accelerates smoothly.
The car has come a long way in 7 weeks and 4000 miles since I bought it. The ARX clean and rinse is finished and the engine runs great. ARX really works!
I can't really tell much about the mpg benefits since I don't have the ownership experience... but my guess is that fuel economy improved by at least 1 mpg or more.
As I rack up the miles I can compare notes with other BMW 325i owners who typically post 19-22 mpg city and 25-27 mpg hwy. I'm at 22-23 city / 26-28 hwy.
I also ARX'ed the automatic trans and did the filter and multiple drain and fills wth Castrol Dexron III/ Mercon (h)and after 2000 miles of driving the transmission is running just right.
So here's a big thanks to everyone at BITOG for all the good advice and product reccomendations! The ARX, LC-20, FP-60 and GC do everything that people said they would.Yay - - another GC user! Pretty much same experience with me: car was noticably quiet and moving up the RPM band was very smooth.
Are you using GC Gold or GC Green?
- another GC user! Pretty much same experience with me: car was noticably quiet and moving up the RPM band was very smooth.
Are you using GC Gold or GC Green?quote:I don't really have the right info so this is fudged a bit... but it seems like you'd get a thick 5W-40 but the experts say don't mix the 0W-30 with other oil. Using the Shell calculator I get: new viscosity 76.5 viscosity at 40°C 76.5 viscosity at 100°C 14.5 viscosity index 199 http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp_internet/castrol/castrol_usa/STAGING/local_assets/downloads/p,q/pds_syntec_usa.pdf
Originally posted by Russell: Since I have owned my 95 525i BMW, it has never been to the dealer for an oil change. BTW, I am currently using castrol 5w50. May do a brew next of 3 qts of castrol 0w30 and 3 qts of castrol 5w50. Not sure what viscosity etc, I would get? Anyone know?
Thatwouldbe... Thanks for the info
Why not mix castrol 0w30 with another castrol synthetic product? Just asking as I have no idea.
Anyway, my concern is that older BMWs(127,000 miles) seem to like thicker oil so I am a bit worried over even "heavy" 30 weight like 0w30. should I be?
quote:Short answer : the 0W-30 GC [Green Castrol Syntec 0W-30] which is a full synthetic is supposed to be quite different from the other Castrol Syntec oil which is made from cheaper group III hydrocracked conventional oil. I think older BMW's like either: -thicker dino oil like 10W-40, 15W-40, or 20W-50 and 10W-30 during the winter or, -medium thickness synthetic or hydrocracked oil that meets ACEA A3 and have a HTHS of 3.5 or higher... some oils that should be ok are: BMW 5W-30, Castrol Syntec 0W-30, Mobil 1 0W-40, 15W-50 Lubro Moly 5W-40, Castrol Syntec European 5W-40, and maybe 5W-50, Redline 5W-40 and 10W-40 probably Valvoline Synpower 5W-40 There is a BMW approved oil list somewhere on the web. What works best is probably an individual thing, but I'd lean towards a thicker oil. I think the Castrol GC 0W-30 will work on this 1995 325ic M50 motor...but I've had my doubts. High ambient temps, increased oil consumption, a poor UOA, or a change to a much more demanding driving style will make me switch to Redline 10W-40... at the moment, I think the GC will work in the M50. When I get a newer BMW, my choices will probably be 0W-30, 5W-30, or 0W-40. [ July 20, 2006, 11:43 AM: Message edited by: Thatwouldbegreat ]
Originally posted by Russell: Thatwouldbe... Thanks for the info Why not mix castrol 0w30 with another castrol synthetic product? Just asking as I have no idea. Anyway, my concern is that older BMWs(127,000 miles) seem to like thicker oil so I am a bit worried over even "heavy" 30 weight like 0w30. should I be?
quote:Nearly 153K on the car. I did all the filters and fluids, Redline 75W-90 in the diff, ATE Super Blue, Castrol Dexron III / Mercon (h). I did the T-Stat, switched to the metal T-Stat housing, new composite water pump, new belts and tensioners. Radiator was in good shape, but I did get a new expansion tank cap. I used the original spec Bosch plug with fresh boots. I also did new Bilstein Sports F&R and all new upper mounts and reinforcements, Front LCA M3 offset bushings, Rear Trailing Arm polyurethane bushings, and new rear lower control arms and bushings. And lots of other work to freshen up the car...it was money well spent! The car looks great and is fun to drive. Since this is a vert, I'm trying to make it a go cart. If I was tracking it, or driving it hard I still think I'd go Redline 5W-40 or 10W-40. I redline the engine frequently, and it sounds great...but that's not the same as driving at the track. [/QB]
Originally posted by Thatwouldbegreat:quote:
Originally posted by windnsea00: How many miles are on the car btw? Good to hear your getting fresh fluid in the tranny, those GM's aren't known to last forever. A synthetic 75w90 works well in the diff. Also make sure the cooling system (t-stat, waterpump, radiator) is in order as that is a weak point on E36's. If it hasn't yet it's probably time for new bushings all around, rear shock mounts and front control arms w/ ball joints and a possibility of new shocks/springs. Also NGK spark plugs work well with the 24 valve motors. While 89 octane can get by I would highly recommend 91 with that engine's 10.5:1 compression ratio. Don't feel afraid to take it up to redline, I have seen more issues on BMW's that are driven gingerly than ones that are routinely opened up.
Ah good to hear! Though bilstein sport's are designed to go with lowering springs and/or sport springs unless your car has that. I'm planning on re-doing the suspension on the `97 318ti sport we have pretty soon. Going with custom springs at 600/700 and more than likely bilstein sports revalved at 1/3 stiffer. It won't be soft
quote:I anticipate a sport/ lowering spring upgrade in the future...though it drives ok now. The E30 is set up in go kart mode [ for the street ] so I don't need to punish the vert unibody!
Ah good to hear! Though bilstein sport's are designed to go with lowering springs and/or sport springs unless your car has that. I'm planning on re-doing the suspension on the `97 318ti sport we have pretty soon. Going with custom springs at 600/700 and more than likely bilstein sports revalved at 1/3 stiffer. It won't be soft
OK, the 325ic made its first round trip to Denver and posted improved mpg, and it is running great!
I will be very happy if GC works out in this car, if it does I'll run a 7K OCI.
Early impressions are very encouraging!
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