Pushmower oil temp, 261F, 5HP Kawasaki

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I thought about oil temp, and suddenly realized I could check it easily with my thermocouple. It's calibrated for aviation use, even though it's a cheapie, so it's pretty accurate.

It's 75 degrees out, I had been mowing for about 15 minutes. So, I did a quick check, prior to forgetting about it.

I don't wonder why I've had engine failures with lower viscosity oils. 10W-30 just does not work for me down here.
 
Yup, oil gets really hot in these engines, I think that is why B+S wants straight 30 wt, unless using full synthetic. They always said that it held up to the high heat better. At least that is what they told us at the factory schools.
 
It would be interesting to see what an infared non-contact thermometer reading on the cylinder head would be at that oil temp.

I use left over Red Line engine oil in my Honda mower. It's usually 0w-30 or 5w-30. I turn the bottles upside down in a holder and collect every last drop to save for the mower. I change the oil based on the number of gallons of gasoline I use. It's easier to track than running time.
 
Originally Posted By: Planb
Do you have the filter kit attached for your fc150v?
I just wonder how much cooler it would run...


No oil filter on this one. I've switched much of my equipment to 15W-50 out of necessity.
 
30HD is my choice for my pushmower. I run 15w-40 in my rider. It really looked rough coming out of there this fall though.....may look at other options in the future.
 
I'd be curious to see how this temp reading compares to the temp of the oil as it's churning through the sump with the engine running.

To me, I'd think the initial reaction of the oil once the engine is stopped, would be a temp spike and then steady decline in temp.
 
I use 15w-40 in my garden equip or what ever is left over in the push type mowers.
 
It's a fun hobby isn't it.

5W20 in my Briggs at 4C (40F) was 189F, but I wasn't a fan of the "clack clack" that the bottom end made when starting hot.

Changed to 20W60 (just to test the extremes), same morning, and got 97C (207F), still at 4C.

Dumped the lot, and reinstalled SAE30...will see how it goes at 100F in a week or two.

As an aside, my Caprice, in freezing conditions gets up to 230F tested that way after 20 highway minutes (IR on sump only shows 190F)...260F in the sump if I hold it in "2" (4,000RPM) for 10 mins or so...with HTHS3.2 5W30.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's a fun hobby isn't it.

5W20 in my Briggs at 4C (40F) was 189F, but I wasn't a fan of the "clack clack" that the bottom end made when starting hot.

Changed to 20W60 (just to test the extremes), same morning, and got 97C (207F), still at 4C.

Dumped the lot, and reinstalled SAE30...will see how it goes at 100F in a week or two.


As an aside, my Caprice, in freezing conditions gets up to 230F tested that way after 20 highway minutes (IR on sump only shows 190F)...260F in the sump if I hold it in "2" (4,000RPM) for 10 mins or so...with HTHS3.2 5W30.




It seems what you are indicating is the higher the viscosity the higher your oil temp. Is this is what you are trying to say or what?
 
Originally Posted By: NH73
Originally Posted By: Shannow
It's a fun hobby isn't it.

5W20 in my Briggs at 4C (40F) was 189F, but I wasn't a fan of the "clack clack" that the bottom end made when starting hot.

Changed to 20W60 (just to test the extremes), same morning, and got 97C (207F), still at 4C.

Dumped the lot, and reinstalled SAE30...will see how it goes at 100F in a week or two.


As an aside, my Caprice, in freezing conditions gets up to 230F tested that way after 20 highway minutes (IR on sump only shows 190F)...260F in the sump if I hold it in "2" (4,000RPM) for 10 mins or so...with HTHS3.2 5W30.




It seems what you are indicating is the higher the viscosity the higher your oil temp. Is this is what you are trying to say or what?


That's not unusual "IF" similar oils are compared. Example, when comparing a high quality synthetic gear oil to a conventional gear oil, temps go down with the syn.

I am going to put 5W-40 TDT in the mower for the winter. I'll bet a dollar temps remain in the stratosphere.
 
Originally Posted By: NH73
It seems what you are indicating is the higher the viscosity the higher your oil temp. Is this is what you are trying to say or what?


For the two data points, the second of which I deliberately chose the thickest off the shelf oil I could get (now I've got 600ml and absolutely nothing to do with it).

Think of the oil in the sump of the Briggs, getting "worked against" by the crank/bearings....it's thicker, there will be more viscous friction, and more energy put into the oil...the combustion side is not a biggie typically, if you hook an engine up to an electric motor, it will get to nearly operating temperature without fuel.

The oil then has to be splashed against the crankcase to transfer its heat into the environment...more heat to dissipate, oil has to run hotter to drive the heat away.

More viscosity equals more work against the oil, and greater film thicknesses (more parts separation).

20W60 was, as I said, an extreme to bookend my measurements, not a recommendation, or what I run.
 
My Kawasaki FJ180V runs few hundred kilometers south of Cujet and accommodates oil filter, definitely helps in cooling the oil. It runs 2 to 3 hours every week.

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Seems high to me. You could go with a synthetic if you are worried about engine protection. GC would work great IMO.
 
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