How good is this filter on a scale of 1-10 with 10 being best? And why?
Purolator One Oil Filter
- Thread starter dmatulion
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Define "best". DO you mean best filtering, or best flowing?
They tend not to be the same, you know!
Titan is right..."best" is rather subjective.
You need to define the particular need you are trying to fullfil and we'd have a better shot at helping you.
As for me, I love PureOnes. I run an oversized PL30001 on my wife's Town & Country and (at least in my mind) believe I've got the best of both world's...to wit: The super filtering of the PureOil and the extra large size eases my restriction concerns.
You need to define the particular need you are trying to fullfil and we'd have a better shot at helping you.
As for me, I love PureOnes. I run an oversized PL30001 on my wife's Town & Country and (at least in my mind) believe I've got the best of both world's...to wit: The super filtering of the PureOil and the extra large size eases my restriction concerns.
7.03937007874
Wavinwayne is correct. If it had a better bypass valve, then it would be 8.976201358343.
I've tried several filters on my car. I found Mobil 1 has a horrible anti-drain back valve, while the Napa Gold filter proves to start up fine except for the cold start where there is some rattling for a few seconds.
But the PureOne allows my car to start up perfectly fine in the morning without any knocking. PureOne is the way to go with the silicone adbv, excellent filtering, and very affordable.
But the PureOne allows my car to start up perfectly fine in the morning without any knocking. PureOne is the way to go with the silicone adbv, excellent filtering, and very affordable.
Triple_Se7en
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For spending $5-$7, I usually buy Bosch (Duralast) or Wix (Napa Gold) instead. I'll buy the Pure Ones if I can catch a $4 sale.
It is on the upper end of the scale. As said, depends on what you want from a filter. Pure One has a finer filter media but in turn a slightly lower flow rate. The Premium has a slightly lower filtering ability (94% vs 96% I believe?) and a little better flow.
Cuplable, I just got some 30001 Premium's for my wife's Grand Caravan, I like the bigger size (and almost 1/2 qt extra capacity).
Cuplable, I just got some 30001 Premium's for my wife's Grand Caravan, I like the bigger size (and almost 1/2 qt extra capacity).
MAYBE we should refer to resistance to flow, or, more accurately, Pressure Drop, across the media, rather than Flow Rate?
It still leaves out the variable of bypass valve opening pressure, but, the term Flow Rate is really not very accurate, unless you are experimenting with flows lower than those in engines, because these filters WILL FLOW whatever the oil pump sends to them. Just a thought!
It still leaves out the variable of bypass valve opening pressure, but, the term Flow Rate is really not very accurate, unless you are experimenting with flows lower than those in engines, because these filters WILL FLOW whatever the oil pump sends to them. Just a thought!
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Yep. Even if you discount my findings due to my engine, my engine surely simulates SOME condition in EVERY engine at one point in the operational cycle. Even if my volume is lower ...then I'm simulating a lower speed of an engine with higher volume. If my cold viscosity is not as high as you desire ..it surely matches SOME viscosity of any oil at SOME temperature. If you think that my media wasn't saturated enough ..it still surely matches some state of any media at some point in its life cycle.
That all being qualified ..even with heavy oil in sub-freezing temps ...with a worn in filter ...no PSID was noted that came within bypass spec's on a PureOne ...the SMALLEST PureOne that was available in that size. With 5w-20 oil ..it never saw a differential of more then 4-5 PSID for a very short time. With 15w-40 it saw about 10 PSID upon start up ..and trailed off to nothing in a very short time.
Flow and restriction don't carry the same meanings in this enviroment for the vast majority of the operational conditions. They represent changes in velocity that are evidenced by pressure differentials ..not flow changes. Just like rapids in the river. The flow remains the same ..just the speed at which they pass through restrictions changes.
so should we run a "larger" P1 to reduce the pressure drop and reduce the chances of the bypass opening? or just stick with what the books call for?
I agree with Titan. I cringe everytime someone claims a filter does not allow as much flow as another one. The pressure drop may change, but the flow is the same.
Gary--so as a result of your tests you're basicaly saying that bypass valves likely never open in most cases on most cars?
So maybe engines will survive dome end clickers and the Ecore rubber bypasses?
i know on OEM toyota dealership filters they're a type of Purolator and the bypass is on the dome end! so if toyota engineers aren't skeered of it... i guess we shouldn't be either. One thing I do notice is the bypass valves on a Purolator vs a Wix are higher. 12-17psi on my P1 vs the 8-11psi on the wix.
T-Keith- You're right. on most Gm's you're only filter goal is to filter! I really like P1's... I had a Mobil 1 filter on my runner this last time just to "try" them.... what a rip off. oil turned black very quickly. P1's keep the oil looking new for a very long time.
As far as the can thickness is concerned, it's on the same level as other Purolator products...of which, I haven't read of any failures here at BITOG (though I may have missed one).
As for the color, leave that to picking dresses. The color of an oil filter has nothing to do with it's functionality or performance, unless you want a "sure grip" paint job like on an AA or Fram filter. Seriously, who's going to see it?
As long as a I can see the silicon ADBV, no overspray on the baseplate, and the threads are clean of shavings, it's fine with me. Short of cutting it open, I don't know how you can formulate an "opinion" about a fitler while in the store, beyond those three visual things. Many people here have disected Pure One's and for the most part, they seem well constructed and very good at filtration (flow, well...that might be another matter).
As for the color, leave that to picking dresses. The color of an oil filter has nothing to do with it's functionality or performance, unless you want a "sure grip" paint job like on an AA or Fram filter. Seriously, who's going to see it?
As long as a I can see the silicon ADBV, no overspray on the baseplate, and the threads are clean of shavings, it's fine with me. Short of cutting it open, I don't know how you can formulate an "opinion" about a fitler while in the store, beyond those three visual things. Many people here have disected Pure One's and for the most part, they seem well constructed and very good at filtration (flow, well...that might be another matter).
I was looking at the P-1's at pep boys the other day and they seem absolutely cheap. Very light, thin walled cans and a horible spray can type blue metallic finish that looks like it was done in a backyard. I took one look and put it back on the shelf, first impression was horrible..
I like the Pure One. I use just about all the good priced brands. My cavalier has the regular Purolator 10111, my wife's impala the N Gold 1040, and put a STP s3387a on it for the four months old oil in my mom's 99 buick. The last Fram I had a ph16 on my equally junky 93 tempo back in 1998. Haven't used a Fram since.
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