Purolator L14610 Cut open

[1foxracing]

Any guess's if it's torn?
Filter came off my 2009 Honda Civic LX with 95,247 miles. OCI was 5,122 miles, oil was Castrol GTX Synblend 5W-20

Tool used for cutting was the Longacre Racing filter cutter tool, highly recomended for these smaller filters.

So far so good.

No rips,tears here.

Still looks good.

Anti drainback was still soft/pliable

Other side.

Pleats a little wavy.

Stamp on the end in case anyone is tracking.

Another view.

All parts.

Better view of filter cutting tool.

Replaced with the Baldwin B1402, after all the scares with the current Purolators didn't want to roll the dice.
My cars lives a pretty easy life with long highway commutes of 114 miles daily and I never beat on it. I bought a 12 pack case of the Baldwins so I guess I will be using them for the next couple years. Castrol oil was replaced with PYB 5W-20, after all the good reviews I thought I would give it a try.

 

[KCJeep]

Looks good! A little waviness doesn't bother me (or your car) at all. I wonder if running 5w20 helped? Should not create as high of pressure spikes as thicker oil. Anyway this one looks fine to me and IIRC it's one of the sizes that have had tearing issues.

As always, thanks for cutting and posting!

 

[HangFire]

Wow I'm running that exact filter right now and considering buying that exact filter cutter.

Thanks for a little peace of mind. I'm now confident enough to finish this OCI, then I'll buy that cutter and see what's up.

 

[HangFire]

My Professional Photographer alarm just rang!

 

[bullwinkle]

I'm still wondering if extremely cold weather + conventional oil is equaling torn pleats on these. The PL30001 off the Jeep I just replaced over the weekend was fine after 5K-but it also had 5W30 ML synthetic in it.

 

[440Magnum]

Pretty typical L-series Purolator. Of all mass market filters out there, I like the Purolator bypass valve spring design the best. True, its a dome-end design, but that die-cut spring is compact and *very* easy to make accurate and consistent in mass production. Probably more so than a coil spring, doesn't involve any plastic like the Fram style does, and certainly easier to do at low cost than a base-end bypass valve.

 

[1foxracing]

Originally Posted By: HangFire
My Professional Photographer alarm just rang!


Sorry about the watermarks, I do shoot MX racing and the program I use to upload photo's add's that automatically and I forgot to disable it.
One of my Eagle photo's did make the local newspaper a week ago.

Back to the oil filter, it's been pretty cold here the past few months and going from memory it was -17 and well below zero a few other times during this O.C.I. If this Purolator would have been torn I have another purchased at the same time and I was going to cut it open to inspect. Since this one was fine I don't plan on cutting it.

I purchased my oil filter cutter from Amazon here.
http://www.amazon.com/Longacre-Oil-Filte...l+filter+cutter
I have a garage full of motorcycles as well and it works great on the smaller cans where many of the other models ( Summit/ Jegs) don't.

 

[wemay]

I'm still a Purolator fan, recent reports not withstanding. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Hyde244]

I thought Purolator shipped their filter pre torn now?

Looking good, I'll continue on with my MC.

 

[Voltmaster]

I'd day its done its job....

 

[ZeeOSix]

I know why the OP's filter didn't tear the media, even though the pleats are spaced quite far apart near the seam. It's because the ends of the pleats were potted in the end cap without much spread between the two halves of the pleat. If you look at the photos of the Purolators that have media tears, you will see the ends of the pleats that tear have a wide spread V between the two halves of the pleat - like the photo below shows.

 

[jmb106]

i think you are on to something. ^

 

[CurtisB]

There is a pretty obvious pattern of wide pleat angles with all the torn filters. The metal crimping piece runs the entire length of the seam, and I have to conclude from this that the media is crimped before it is placed/glued. The lip on the end caps would disallow any machine from crimping that metal piece with the filter assembled. For a machine to tear that adjacent pleat the glue would have to be dry, and if you look closely, there is dry glue on the very bottom of the metal crimp. I threw my hat in with the machine damage theory, and I was incorrect. Good work ZeeOSix.

 

[mr_diy]

I see no reason to run the cheapest filters. The pleats look poor to me. The PL14610's for my Civic run 40% longer look much better.

OP, Maybe you could cut pleats to show spread at the glue.

 

[KCJeep]

Originally Posted By: jmb106
i think you are on to something. ^


I agree I think he's got it!

 

[Merkava_4]

I can't stand those wavy sagging pleats. Excellent photos though.

 

[1foxracing]

Here is some more photo's.

 

[Lubener]

Cheap, wide and wavy pleats. I'll bet that's why they are tearing.

 

[Merkava_4]

The potting compound looks pretty good . . . just junky pleats.

 

[1foxracing]

Video of me cutting the filter, wanted to do this to prove I didn't cut the pleats myself if they would have been torn.