PUP burner

Joined
Jun 25, 2020
Messages
51
Location
Texas
Ran PUP in my 2012 Mazdaspeed 3 since new (146k miles). Since the SN+ and SP reform I’ve noticed my burn rate went from virtually nothing to upwards of 1.5 to nearly 2 quarts every 3500 miles. Did a compression and leakdown, numbers came back stout. No sign of rings or valve seals. I just switched to Kirkland 5w-30 on a larf and after about 1500 miles my burn rate is zero. What gives?
 
Seems to be the norm for a lot of members using or switching to PUP. Some advise running it for two to three OCIs to see if it improves. In all honestly if I ran it twice and I was using oil at that rate, my engine test results were "stout" as you mentioned, and I was certain I had a good working OE PCV valve, and no leaks, I would switch brands of oil. If that resolved the issue, I wouldn't look back. I was a PU loyalist for quite a few years, IMO they dropped the ball with the product. My new favorite oil is ESP, if Mobil doesn't mess it up I'll stick with it, if they mess around with it, and worsen it I'll make another change.
 
Yes, very interesting.

Or it could be that your PCV just clogged, nothing to do with the oil.. either or.

I am about to choose a top-off oil and my first thought was to give M1 EP a shot as top-off. Every time you walk in to Walmart, you see Mobil 1, Pennzoil and Castrol all pretty much at the same time. This helps fuel an impulse buy. I decided Castrol Edge at last second.

Now I have too much oil in my crankcase. Going to adjust that by changing filter...

Thought about selecting Pennzoil as always wanting to try, now I am wondering if I should see if it oil burns or just get an M1 product, if I need to add any oil at all. ?
 
No leaks, new PCV about 10k ago, same results. The early DISI engines had bad turbo seals but this one doesn’t smoke at all.
 
Of course This is just anecdotal and my own experience, but I too had the same issue with PUP in my Outbacks 3.6 (EZ36D) motor. No issues with the oil at all other than it seemed to burn pretty easily which is kinda a hard thing to do on a dinosaur of a motor that isn’t exactly hard on oil at all. Typically I only ever burn significant amounts of oil on long highway road trips that go down in altitude and on the one way (don’t ask why because I still don’t know why lol), but otherwise no brand/line burns much oil over a 5k -6k OCI.....expect PUP. PU even Is fine though too thin for my preference, but the ultra for whatever reason burns about 1/4 quart every 2,500 miles or so.

if you’re experiencing the same I would just switch as you may never really find the real culprit and it’s not worth losing sleep over. 😇
 
Some oils form a better piston/ring seal. Oils that do tend to resist fuel dilution better. This was discussed years ago with RLI. I'm not sure why as that question is for a chemist/formulator.

I don't think a few cSt would cause that much of a difference. I also don't think it's the Noack either. Hard to say......
 
Yea I think I’m off the Pennzoil train. Was a great oil, always had great things to say about it but at this point in time I’ll probably look for some HM stuff, maybe M1 or Valvoline. TBH the Costco stuff works pretty well but nearing 150k I would like to use something with more seal conditioners etc.
 
Used to swear by PUP 5w30, now burning 1 quart every 3k miles. Never again. I'm going M1, likely ESP or 0w40.
Plus I am not liking the thin for grade the PUP (5w30) is. It's a borderline 5w20! (100c CSt of 9.7 by VOA).
 
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I'm now split between PUP and M1 as a top-off oil.

I used to both like and want to like PUP.. M1 seems to have much more enthusiasm and better formulation though.

I do not know why this is such a hard choice.
 
Used to swear by PUP 5w30, now burning 1 quart every 3k miles. Never again. I'm going M1, likely ESP or 0w40.
Plus I am not liking the thin for grade the PUP (5w30) is. It's a borderline 5w20! (100c CSt of 9.7 by VOA).
I'd go with ESP and not look back. FTR they also make a 0W40 ESP. Win win if you're looking to use a 40 grade oil.
 
Of course This is just anecdotal and my own experience, but I too had the same issue with PUP in my Outbacks 3.6 (EZ36D) motor.
...
if you’re experiencing the same I would just switch as you may never really find the real culprit and it’s not worth losing sleep over. 😇

Same here on a FB25 in a Forester around 2016. Though it wasn't PUP it was just PP. Switched back to whatever we ran the previous OC and the engine returned back to normal consumption - which was about a 1.5 litres per OCI.
The consumption may have something to do with the way the second rings respond or ?? Maybe certain VM help with oil usage, but I couldn't guess the mechanism for that; and that suggestion goes contrary to my thought that "keeping ring lands/ grooves clean and free of varnish" is the second most important thing and oil does; the first being its ability maintain its intended temp-viscosity curve.

-Ken
 
This is strange because i have the same issue with the Shell Helix Ultra 5w30 i use as well as the 5w40 version in a car i service. Looks like SOPUS did something to their formulations. I am torn between going back to either a thick 5w40 or another 5w30 like Total Quartz Ineo or Mobil 1 ESP.
 
I have photo evidence of a PUP burner ...
burned  frankfurters.jpg
 
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