Pulling an engine from a Pull & Pay

[RooflessVW]

nobody swaps the v10 into anything

you sell short blocks to people who managed to destroy their old engine. not common but it does happen

Untrue. V10 swaps happen.

It’s OK, that engine won’t run in anything except the identical Audi anyhow. After you get the engine home you disconnect the cut wires at the engine’s connectors. You don’t waste time carefully disconnecting them at the junkyard. You’d be there all day. Or worse, you’d come back the next day and witness some bubba pulling the engine you prepped for removal.

It can run semi-easily in almost any VAG car of the same generation.

 

[The Critic]

Insanity.

That engine and transmission is worthless without everything to run it. It only has value as a complete swap.

If you remove it from the car like some of the barbarians here are suggesting, all you'll be able to do with the engine is make your coffee table.

Agreed. And a proper engine swap for one of these cars is a 5-figure job...not exactly a DIYer friendly car to work on.

How many of those cars are left on the road today, and are owned by customers who are willing to invest that kind of money?

If you ask me, this is a pointless exercise.

 

[dareo]

V10 audi sand rail would be cool.

 

[Snagglefoot]

But getting back to the original posting, it’s cool to see a unique engine just sitting there ready for picking. I once saw a Ford SHO engine sitting at Pick and Pull. I believe at the time they actually were assembled by Mercury Marine.

I’ve known guys to pull a low mileage engine and or transmission for their current ride and tuck it away in the corner of their garage for future use.

 

[RooflessVW]

SHO V6 was Yamaha

 

[Snagglefoot]

SHO V6 was Yamaha

That’s right. My bad. Mercury Marine built the LT-5 V-8 engine for the C4 Corvette ZR-1.

 

[RooflessVW]

That’s right. My bad. Mercury Marine built the LT-5 V-8 engine for the C4 Corvette ZR-1.

I think the SHO did end up in some outboards.

That original ZR-1 was a beast.

 

[eljefino]

Every u-pull engine is different. It helps to think about how they assembled them at the factory, then do that backwards.

For many FWD platforms, engine, transmission, subframe, struts, maybe the radiator and AC stuff all come up in from below. Remember they get about 60 seconds on the assembly line to do this the first time!

When I swapped an OHV engine for an ecotec in a cavalier, I didn't hack any wires because I needed them all! The computer and fusebox were at the other end of the short harness. There was pretty much one obvious bulkhead connector.

 

[Wolf359]

Those Audi V-10 engines are famous for intake valve deposits every 30k miles) and intake runner flapper valve issues (50k to 75k) that are very expensive to replace. You have to replace the entire intake manifold if they have problems, because the individual parts are not sold by Audi.

If I owned one of those cars, I would buy a second engine, and then rotate the engines when its valve cleaning time.
Then the engine that is on the service table can be serviced on my own time frame without any downtime of the car itself.

Wow, that's an expensive intake. FCPeuro sells it, but it's about $3332, they have 5-10% off sales once in a while and they have a lifetime warranty so if they go that quick, maybe you can get another free one later. Mercedes had the same problem with the M272/M273 engines, but their intake starts at about $650, tends to go in the 80k-140k range if you don't replace the oil separator. No one seems to rebuild them either, you can get a rebuilt Mercedes intake in the $350 range.

Audi Intake Manifold - Genuine Audi 07L133185M

Audi Intake Manifold - Genuine Audi 07L133185M

www.fcpeuro.com

 

[2EHA]

Wow, that's an expensive intake. FCPeuro sells it, but it's about $3332, they have 5-10% off sales once in a while and they have a lifetime warranty so if they go that quick, maybe you can get another free one later.

Audi Intake Manifold - Genuine Audi 07L133185M

Audi Intake Manifold - Genuine Audi 07L133185M

www.fcpeuro.com

no demand. these determined enthusiasts have found ways to deal with it by removing the flaps killing all torque or locking them in the max torque position

Intake Manifold flap lock in long position thread

I have the flaps removed, and the idle is as good as it can get. Even passed the coin test. Also, on low load it seems that the flaps is in the short position anyway(?). It’s just a matter of taste. I get why you would prefer long position but I also understand why some, as myself, prefer...

forums.audirevolution.net