Pros and cons of Electronic Parking Brakes?

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Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
Then many use "mini drums" in the rotor hat that likely would disintegrate if used as a real E-brake.

But the younger generation don't understand that cars had only ONE brake circuit on the master cylinder in the 60's and prior.

I think the dual- diagonals came in the late 60's?


The last I had used the regular rear pads, but at the same time I don't know if any rear disk FoMoCo product uses drum in disk. I don't pretend to know their full line up by any means, but even my current car with a manual brake activates the same rear pads used for braking.

I know MGs went to dual circuit for the '68 m/y(US market only). If that wasn't the year it was required in the US, it was within a year or two of that-British Leyland wouldn't have redesigned the brake system unless forced to do so!
 
Originally Posted by Eddie
If it is a ON or OFF device as stated then there should be a lockout, so it can't be activated when driving! Ed


On my last car with it, you weren't putting it on while moving without trying.

Just in design, the switch was like a giant, oversized push-up, pull down window switch. It was on the center console behind the gear selector, and was recessed just a bit. The location and amount it had to be lifted pretty well guaranteed that you weren't going to activate just by brushing up against it or snagging something on it.

It's been better than two years since I've driven the car, but I also remember that it wouldn't readily engage even if you DID pull up on it with the car in drive. I THINK that your foot had to be on the foot brake with the car in drive(or at least with the car moving). If it was engaged while in motion, you'd also get all manner of beeps and messages on the instrument panel to make sure you knew that you had it on.

Of course, with the car in park, it would engage with a simple lift up on the switch-I was in the habit of moving the shifter to park then moving my hand back a few inches and lifting the lever up before shutting the car off ever time I parked. It would also auto-release when any gear was engaged.
 
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Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
... But the younger generation don't understand that cars had only ONE brake circuit on the master cylinder in the 60's and prior.
I think the dual- diagonals came in the late 60's? ...
A little earlier for AMC and Cadillac. I think they were split front-rear, not diagonally. (?)
 
Originally Posted by madRiver
Did not realize electronic parking brake turns off when vehicle put into gear till yesterday 2018 VW Tiguan. A benefit.


I agree, I love the fact that I can just put the car in gear and go, but I also like the hill hold so that probably makes me a wimp or a bad driver in some eyes
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted by madRiver
Did not realize electronic parking brake turns off when vehicle put into gear till yesterday 2018 VW Tiguan. A benefit.

Yeah, my new jetta lease does this with the MT.

It releases when you engage the clutch.


I dont think it will engage when you are moving though I havent tried.

You have to apply the service brake for the eE-brake to egage ion my vehicle

I have to look up this mechanism. My car will be on the lift today getting new rear coil springs, Maybe Ill poke around and ask the tech.

I do intend to visually inspect the spring install B4 and after.

My safety is at risk here.
 
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Originally Posted by CR94
Originally Posted by ARCOgraphite
... But the younger generation don't understand that cars had only ONE brake circuit on the master cylinder in the 60's and prior.
I think the dual- diagonals came in the late 60's? ...
A little earlier for AMC and Cadillac. I think they were split front-rear, not diagonally. (?)


I know MGs/BL products from that era better than anything American, but the 68 and later dual circuit is front and rear also.

Given that the bias on an MGB is ~80/20 front/rear even if everything is perfect, losing the front brakes puts you in the same situation as if you had to stop with the handbrake-or in other words not that good of shape. You might be MARGINALLY better if it's been a few years since someone stuck a grease gun on the nipple on the hand brake cable, or snugged up the slack in the cable(the latter is easier said than done given that the adjuster is often seized).

Of course, through the end of production(1980), the rear brakes still required manual adjustment. I got fancy and bought a purpose-made wrench for it, but the process is still fundamentally the same-remove the wheel, turn the adjuster one "click"(quarter turn) at a time until you can't turn the drum by hand, and then back off 1 or 2 clicks, making sure the drum rotates freely. I found out the hard way about doing it with the wheels still on-I ended up with one set just a bit too tight, and the fact that it was dragging was really noticeable a few miles later when I had an unrelated breakdown and had to push it off the road. Also, if they haven't been touched in a few years, you can only hope that the adjuster isn't seized-every time I adjust mine I run it in and out over its full travel to make sure it doesn't get that way.
 
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