Prolonging the life of an engine with a rod knock.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Well, the oil is free but I think your theory would only make some sense if I was dumping the oil in my gas tank.


Where is the oil going if not into the combustion chamber? Is it leaking out onto the ground?
 
When you look at it either way you lose. Drive it and you will limp along and then get socked with a big tow bill because when you toss that rod it will stop right there. No limping home. You are far better off just finding another car on Craigs list than going through all the aggravation of dealing with all the headaches of it dying on the road. Sorry, there is just no way to cheat with this one.
 
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
You don't have a clue. Oil and gasoline are not equivalent producers of power. Not even close. You factoring them together as equals makes absolutely no sense. Maybe I should get a humidity reading every time I drive and factor the water I'm burning too...

I might not stay out of traffic, but feel free to keep your inane commentary out of my thread.


The energy density of oil is higher than gasoline. It depends on the number and type of C-H bonds but overall it is higher. Same reason diesel fuel has a higher energy density. But either way you look at it they are "close".

And water does not burn no matter what unless fluorine is the oxidizer. Hard to get combustion energy out of an oxide.
 
Nothing nice about leaving a puddle of oil for any 2 wheel vehicles to drive through/fall down.
 
You don't put gear oil in an engine crankcase - that will finish your bearings off!


Sulphur and phosphorous compounds maxed out in gear oil !
Not engine compatible.

You next short drive should be to the Junkyard.

Don't you have emissions laws?
 
Your polluting the air by burning the oil. Time for the boneyard.

Having the car die at an inappropriate time could be a PIA. You must have another vehicle or you need to get one. I
 
New bearings, re-ring and thick oil.

That said it's going to be a safety hazard when you put a rod through the block and dump the oil on the highway and hurt someone. Fix or park.

35.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Gasbuggy
Originally Posted By: Astro14
You're not buringing one gallon in 29 miles, you're actually burning 1.1 gallons per 29 miles. 1 gallon of gas, and .1 gallons of oil. It's burning the oil. Lots of oil.

So - 26 MPG...whether or not some of that fuel is free.

But either way, that engine is not long for this world.

Please avoid highways, rush hour, bridges, and tunnels.



You're very wrong. The oil introduced has no impact on the amount of fuel the OBDI computer tells the injectors to introduce. Oil burning or no oil burning, the mileage would be about the same. Do you really think the oil is turning into additional power? If anything it is hurting performance and economy.
Burning fuel outside of the OBD loop means you don't have to push the throttle down as far.
 
Originally Posted By: CharlieJ
Try some of the super think oil additives that they sell at autoparts stores. It would be interesting to see if any of them lessened the rod knock.


Lucas might work. It was a trick a sales manager of mine did when he took a clunker on a trade because he had no clue how to check cars out when he took them on trade or bought them wholesale. He'd have the shop toss Lucas Oil Stabilizer and then try and wholesale them and stick someone else with them.
 
Originally Posted By: Donald
Your polluting the air by burning the oil. Time for the boneyard.

Having the car die at an inappropriate time could be a PIA. You must have another vehicle or you need to get one. I

According to his signature - he has 4 other cars. OP - if you have to keep it running for fun - obviously thicker oil helps, but also keep the RPM in the sweet spot where you're not lugging the engine in a higher gear and you're not over reving it in a lower gear. High RPM will kill it fast. Likely best range is 2500-3000 rpm - keep it there and it may last a little while. Even I would just call a company that picks up cars for cash - a junkyard might buy it for parts - the glass and many other small parts still have value to the right guy.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
He was a good one at least he wholesaled them.


He tried. He'd bundle the losers with a few nice cars, then average the price of the bundle of cars so the GM and owner thought he made a little money on the wholesale pieces. Little did the owner know that nice retail pieces were being wholesaled to drive the average of the losing wholesale cars up, making him look like a rock star instead of a moron.
wink.gif
 
Absolutely no point in putting gear oil in an engine. If your goal is to have a really thick oil, well, the 20w-50 you poured in is probably thicker than the 85w-140 gear oil, so what's the point of the gear oil? Gear oil uses a different grading scale than motor oil, so even though the radically bigger viscosity numbers make it seem way thicker, it's really not. A 90 weight gear oil is roughly the same thickness as a 30 weight motor oil. The reason for the different grading scale is so people don't accidentally pour "10w-30 gear oil" into their engine, mistaking it for motor oil. If someone sees 80w-90 or 85w-140 on the bottle, they instantly know it isn't motor oil.
 
"Rislone" or "Restore," something designed to fill cracks under pressure, would be my suggestion. "Restore" made a difference on the worst-of-the-worst in my experience.

-m
 
The car has the most value with a running engine that isn't yet grenaded. Run it to a junkyard or parts car buyer before you can't. I'd rather do that then get caught on a Sunday and have to pay for a double time emergency tow.

Fwiw I was running my 1979 Caddy DeVille in the early 1990's when it developed a rod knock from fuel pump diaphragm failure. After replacing the fuel pump and a couple quick oil changes to flush out the old fuel it still had a slight knock, similar to yours. I drove it for several hundred miles close to home. But since it was also rusty underneath, ended up selling it. A year later I saw it running around the next town over. When that fuel pump failed, I could see the gas gauge literally moving down as I was cruising on the highway at 65 mph. Crazy design.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: CharlieJ
Try some of the super think oil additives that they sell at autoparts stores. It would be interesting to see if any of them lessened the rod knock.


Lucas might work. It was a trick a sales manager of mine did when he took a clunker on a trade because he had no clue how to check cars out when he took them on trade or bought them wholesale. He'd have the shop toss Lucas Oil Stabilizer and then try and wholesale them and stick someone else with them.


I find that the OP's situation is the only situation where I would use Lucas oil additive.

I was buying some of their gasoline additive (Which is great stuff no matter what condition your car is in) and the guy at the counter told me how much the oil additive helped with his dying Ford Crown Vic.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top