Problems with brake job and defective rotors pics
- Thread starter Chris B.
- Start date
- Status
I put the house brand rotors from a major US auto parts chain that I work at on my Suburban. 400 miles later they are already bad. With pads, it doesn't really matter what you put on all that much. If your brakes are squeaking whoever installed them did something wrong.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I'm not sure why everyone is focusing on the chunk missing from the rotor.
Possibly because, like me, they don't think there should be chunks missing from a new brake disk.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
It has absolutely nothing to do with OPs brake problems.
Didn't say it did. Don't think anyone else did either.
Or possibly it's easier to look at pretty pictures than read the post.
A heavy pull during braking is a very serious issue, by addressing the missing chunk on the disk as first response, he might get a wrong impression of where his priorities should lie in regards to his brake problem.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
I'm not sure why everyone is focusing on the chunk missing from the rotor.
Possibly because, like me, they don't think there should be chunks missing from a new brake disk.
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
It has absolutely nothing to do with OPs brake problems.
Didn't say it did. Don't think anyone else did either.
Or possibly it's easier to look at pretty pictures than read the post.
A heavy pull during braking is a very serious issue, by addressing the missing chunk on the disk as first response, he might get a wrong impression of where his priorities should lie in regards to his brake problem.
Last edited:
Thank you gentlemen! So I have a few questions as I work through this. First, if my calipers are bad, what is the best brand for a replacement? OEM or another aftermarket brand? Also what brand of caliper hoses are best or do the new calipers come with those.
Originally Posted By: dogememe
I put the house brand rotors from a major US auto parts chain that I work at on my Suburban. 400 miles later they are already bad. With pads, it doesn't really matter what you put on all that much. If your brakes are squeaking whoever installed them did something wrong.
some pads just make noise, that why most reputable brake suppliers adjust brake material to mitigate unwanted harmonics as much as possible.
I put the house brand rotors from a major US auto parts chain that I work at on my Suburban. 400 miles later they are already bad. With pads, it doesn't really matter what you put on all that much. If your brakes are squeaking whoever installed them did something wrong.
some pads just make noise, that why most reputable brake suppliers adjust brake material to mitigate unwanted harmonics as much as possible.
It could also be your rubber hose that runs from the caliper to your brake line. If replacing calipers, may as well spend another 12 bucks (each) and get new hoses. Also, bleed the brakes every time you do a brake job. For most people, that's the only time they get bled. Personally, I wouldn't even care about the chip on the rotor if it's already on the truck.
A mistake I made a long time ago was I dropped the caliper while it was off and the hose is what stopped it. I ruined the hose doing that as the car pulled to the opposite side once I put it back together. Now I bungee or coat hanger the caliper to make sure this never happens again.
Originally Posted By: Silverado12
It could also be your rubber hose that runs from the caliper to your brake line. If replacing calipers, may as well spend another 12 bucks (each) and get new hoses. Also, bleed the brakes every time you do a brake job. For most people, that's the only time they get bled. Personally, I wouldn't even care about the chip on the rotor if it's already on the truck.
Should not be much trouble to swap out , if NAPA warranties it . And I probably would .
Otherwise , I would not loose much sleep over it .
It could also be your rubber hose that runs from the caliper to your brake line. If replacing calipers, may as well spend another 12 bucks (each) and get new hoses. Also, bleed the brakes every time you do a brake job. For most people, that's the only time they get bled. Personally, I wouldn't even care about the chip on the rotor if it's already on the truck.
Should not be much trouble to swap out , if NAPA warranties it . And I probably would .
Otherwise , I would not loose much sleep over it .
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Or possibly it's easier to look at pretty pictures than read the post.
Sure is. Here's some nasty pictures and a bit of argy-bargy to further illustrate that point.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4072698/2
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4188412/3
If a car pulls to one side when braking, its likely one side isn't working, which couild be due to a sticky piston, sticky sliders,and/ or blocked hydraulics.
If a car pulls to one side when not braking, its likely one side is working all the time, which couild be due to a sticky piston, sticky sliders, and/or blocked hydraulics.
However, there doesn't seem to be a lot of point in going into detail with the OP since he isn't going to do the work himself.
He's a consumer, so all he needs is consumer advice.
My consumer advice, which is mine, goes:-
(a) Get that disk replaced.
(b) Get your brakes fixed.
But I didn't bother with (b) since it seemed a bit, like, obvious.
OK?
Or possibly it's easier to look at pretty pictures than read the post.
Sure is. Here's some nasty pictures and a bit of argy-bargy to further illustrate that point.
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4072698/2
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4188412/3
If a car pulls to one side when braking, its likely one side isn't working, which couild be due to a sticky piston, sticky sliders,and/ or blocked hydraulics.
If a car pulls to one side when not braking, its likely one side is working all the time, which couild be due to a sticky piston, sticky sliders, and/or blocked hydraulics.
However, there doesn't seem to be a lot of point in going into detail with the OP since he isn't going to do the work himself.
He's a consumer, so all he needs is consumer advice.
My consumer advice, which is mine, goes:-
(a) Get that disk replaced.
(b) Get your brakes fixed.
But I didn't bother with (b) since it seemed a bit, like, obvious.
OK?
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Chris B.
Thank you gentlemen! So I have a few questions as I work through this. First, if my calipers are bad, what is the best brand for a replacement? OEM or another aftermarket brand? Also what brand of caliper hoses are best or do the new calipers come with those.
Remans are hit or miss. On a friend's 98 K1500 Tahoe, I had get two Cardones for the passenger side, while the driver's side caliper bolted on fine out of the box.
I would get new ACDelco OE if I were you.
For caliper hoses, all the aftermarket stuff is Chinese these days made by Sunsong and those work OK. If you can find OEM even better.
Thank you gentlemen! So I have a few questions as I work through this. First, if my calipers are bad, what is the best brand for a replacement? OEM or another aftermarket brand? Also what brand of caliper hoses are best or do the new calipers come with those.
Remans are hit or miss. On a friend's 98 K1500 Tahoe, I had get two Cardones for the passenger side, while the driver's side caliper bolted on fine out of the box.
I would get new ACDelco OE if I were you.
For caliper hoses, all the aftermarket stuff is Chinese these days made by Sunsong and those work OK. If you can find OEM even better.
- Status
Similar threads
