Price is the same; would you pick Motul 0w20 or Eneos 0w20 ?

[imeem]

At my mechanic, I got the option to chose Motul (8100 I believe) 0w20 or Eneos 0w20. (yes i know i should go buy the cheapest one at walmart that meets my spec, etc. etc.).


I've used Motul before, no real complaints apart from the car seems a bit noisy (vs Redline). I've never used Eneos before.

between the 2, i'm looking for an oil that has better wear protection and/or more resistant to oil consumption, even if it's a slight advantage. I'm trying to compare the technical properties but I don't fully understand each one.

https://d23zpyj32c5wn3.cloudfront.net/images/product_descriptions/technical_data_sheets/84443/8100_Eco-lite_0W-20_(GB).pdf?1588774728

https://www.eneos.us/product/eneos-0w-20/

what's your opinion between these 2 oil (price is exactly the same)? also any good link to learn how to interpret these rating for dummies?

 

[Ed_Flecko]

Is Motul 8100 Eco-clean 0W-20 an option? The PDS says, "ACEA C5 / API SERVICE SN Plus / SN-RC (Ressource Conserving) / ILSAC GF-5

APPROVALS BMW LL-17 FE+ (backward compatible with BMW LL-14 FE+) / MB-Approval 229.71 / OPEL/VAUXHALL OV0401547"

Ed

 

[OVERKILL]

Motul.

 

[Oro_O]

I guess I'd take the Motul on faith, as the Noack on the Eneos look miserable...

 

[jurko]

Looks like the ECO-CLEAN is better choice.
It provides both better wear protection and less engine and turbocharger deposits.
ENEOS did not provide HTHS therefore some calculations could not be made.
You might have to look at Detergent & Antiwear additives to make a final determination.

Oil with higher HTFS = Lower engine wear.
Oil with lower VII = Less engine and turbocharger deposits.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Both... try one and then the other and then decide for yourself... otherwise I'd recommend 50:50

 

[imeem]

Is Motul 8100 Eco-clean 0W-20 an option? The PDS says, "ACEA C5 / API SERVICE SN Plus / SN-RC (Ressource Conserving) / ILSAC GF-5

APPROVALS BMW LL-17 FE+ (backward compatible with BMW LL-14 FE+) / MB-Approval 229.71 / OPEL/VAUXHALL OV0401547"

Ed

Not sure if he has 8100 eco-clean, i'll check once i'm there.

Looks like the ECO-CLEAN is better choice.
It provides both better wear protection and less engine and turbocharger deposits.
ENEOS did not provide HTHS therefore some calculations could not be made.
You might have to look at Detergent & Antiwear additives to make a final determination.
View attachment 45905
Oil with higher HTFS = Lower engine wear.
Oil with lower VII = Less engine and turbocharger deposits.

thanks. Interesting the ECO-CLEAN has a higher viscosity index than redline 0w20 I used with @ 172.

 

[celicaxx]

Eneos. Perhaps it's from reading too much Import Tuner and admiring Japan too much in my youth (see avatar, haha.)

Eneos used to have a challenge where they would dyno your car for free (I think) before and after an oil change with their oil at big import meets, and would give you the oil and dyno pulls for free if you didn't gain horsepower on a fresh oil change with their oil. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/eneos-oil-challnege.68340/ old thread confirming I'm not going crazy and this actually happened. Though it is marketing and advertising, nonetheless it made an impression on me.

 

[kr_bitog]

I havent tried this Motul ecolite SP version, but I tried the old one with load of sodium. Not really impressed, my semi synthetic fuchs still beat it on fuel economy, lower oil temp and smoothness. What I heard the ecolite SP version is also GTL based without PAO

 

[Ovalnut]

I can tell you that nissan was importing eneos 0w20 as lately as last year for the oem fill. Pretty much useless I know.

 

[imeem]

decided on the 8100 eco-lite (didn't have the eco-clean) . thanks guys.

 

[kr_bitog]

decided on the 8100 eco-lite (didn't have the eco-clean) . thanks guys.

Please report back your experience, this new SP version comes cheap but what people told me it is not PAO synthetic as legacy Eirope definition but hydrocracked synthetic as US definition

 

[imeem]

Please report back your experience, this new SP version comes cheap but what people told me it is not PAO synthetic as legacy Eirope definition but hydrocracked synthetic as US definition

so after driving 80 km, I would say in the winter @ cold start up before reaching operating temperature ; my car isn't as loud and feels more responsive to the gas pedal, and less resistance (vs. Redline 0w20).

Once at operating temp (when oil is ~80 C) compare to Redline, car doesn't feel as responsive, like there's more resistance/friction (more effort to get higher RPM). I would also say car is a tiny bit louder from inside and as you step out.

idk how accurate is this as I could be biased and I don't really have proof of this, so YMMV. Car in question is 2014 Subaru Crosstrek.

 

[kr_bitog]

Thank you, perhaps 80 km is a bit too short to tell. When I changed to Ecolite in the past, the first 200 kms the oil temperature slightly elevated, and i would say only much later the noise also a bit quieter. So perhaps after 2k and 5k you can tell better what is your observation.