hey djlinux, how do you know a wrist pin has failed? One wrist pin is a very odd part to fail on a gently driven car, even if you run out of oil other parts would fail much quicker. What did you run nitrous or something? These engines are well designed and run best when run hard. Babying it is a good way to stick the rings into place (bad) and lose compression, esp if it's been babied it's whole life. I would use a HM oil or straight SAE grade as previously mentioned and would stay away from the superthick, wideviscspread 5w50.
Preventing imminent engine failure
- Thread starter djlinux64
- Start date
- Status
Originally Posted By: HawkeyeScott
$6500 is highway robbery. I'm angry just reading that.
Oh yeah! The guy who quoted him $6500 is probably the same guy who tells him his wrist pin is on the way out and the cause of his consumption
$6500 is highway robbery. I'm angry just reading that.
Oh yeah! The guy who quoted him $6500 is probably the same guy who tells him his wrist pin is on the way out and the cause of his consumption
It is not worth it to resurrect this car. It's done its time. With the deals you can get on cars right now, save your money for payments on a new one.
Until it quits, Syntec 5W-50 counds like a good option - covers both ends of the spectrum, and it is a very, very solid oil that doesn't shear down much at all.
Until it quits, Syntec 5W-50 counds like a good option - covers both ends of the spectrum, and it is a very, very solid oil that doesn't shear down much at all.
Well, no one will say it, so I will. It's because of the high iron wear due to M1 use
OK, maybe that was in bad taste. Anyway, like the others have indicated, an engine swap is not a bad way to go. OR---wait until the CARS act gets passed and get another vehicle. Here is a cut and paste link: http://sutton.house.gov/news/story.cfm?id=218
OK, maybe that was in bad taste. Anyway, like the others have indicated, an engine swap is not a bad way to go. OR---wait until the CARS act gets passed and get another vehicle. Here is a cut and paste link: http://sutton.house.gov/news/story.cfm?id=218
$6500 to replace the wrist pin, or rebuild the entire engine? Ouch either way.
My question is...how can oil choice affect the timeline of this failure? I can't imagine how oil (rather than driving style) would prolong the wrist pin's life. Or is everyone just suggesting a heavier weight to fend off consumption?
My question is...how can oil choice affect the timeline of this failure? I can't imagine how oil (rather than driving style) would prolong the wrist pin's life. Or is everyone just suggesting a heavier weight to fend off consumption?
Something doesn't compute. You say a wrist pin is "dead or dying," but then you say the engine "runs well." A dead or dying wrist pin will make a horrific racket. Actualy a "dead" wrist pin will let the connecting rod go from the piston, flop around, and put holes in the block until it exits at high velocity.
If its just burning oil and not making noises, that's probably *not* a wrist pin. It might have a broken ring on cylinder 3, but an engine can run a very long time that way provided you keep it full of oil. It might just be a stuck ring, and taking it out and thrashing the snot out of it might free it up (but don't do that until you're sure its mechanically sound...)
The big risk in continuing to drive a known oil-burner is that you'll forget to keep it topped off, run it dry, and burn it up. It may also kill the catcon, but that's not as likely. It will probably also foul the plug on #3 and develop a misfire.
And OBTW if it IS a stuck ring, running heavy oil will only make it worse.
If its just burning oil and not making noises, that's probably *not* a wrist pin. It might have a broken ring on cylinder 3, but an engine can run a very long time that way provided you keep it full of oil. It might just be a stuck ring, and taking it out and thrashing the snot out of it might free it up (but don't do that until you're sure its mechanically sound...)
The big risk in continuing to drive a known oil-burner is that you'll forget to keep it topped off, run it dry, and burn it up. It may also kill the catcon, but that's not as likely. It will probably also foul the plug on #3 and develop a misfire.
And OBTW if it IS a stuck ring, running heavy oil will only make it worse.
Last edited:
I'd get a second opinion, and do some research on the "failatec" engine to see if this is actually relatively common, or even plausible, problem...
Your engine has a failed wrist pin on Cyl #3??? How was that determined?? A cat Scan?? A MRI?? Unless that is a known failure mode on that engine.........
Wrist pin failure should be followed by rod and piston failure within about 10 miles, then total death.
Burns a lot of oil, especially at startup?? Should we not be looking at valve guides and seals also??
Or, a new mechanic??
Good luck!
Wrist pin failure should be followed by rod and piston failure within about 10 miles, then total death.
Burns a lot of oil, especially at startup?? Should we not be looking at valve guides and seals also??
Or, a new mechanic??
Good luck!
Originally Posted By: fsskier
Your engine has a failed wrist pin on Cyl #3??? How was that determined?? A cat Scan?? A MRI??
Your engine has a failed wrist pin on Cyl #3??? How was that determined?? A cat Scan?? A MRI??
Piston broke?
Originally Posted By: Max_Wander
hey djlinux, how do you know a wrist pin has failed? One wrist pin is a very odd part to fail on a gently driven car, even if you run out of oil other parts would fail much quicker.
If the noise was properly diagnosed, it's more than likely a wrist pin bushing.
hey djlinux, how do you know a wrist pin has failed? One wrist pin is a very odd part to fail on a gently driven car, even if you run out of oil other parts would fail much quicker.
If the noise was properly diagnosed, it's more than likely a wrist pin bushing.
Originally Posted By: djlinux64
... except for one minor detail: the wrist pin on cylinder 3 is dead or dying. .....The engine burns a lot of oil...
DJ,
What are the symptoms that lead you to believe a wrist pin is bad?
How much oil does it actually burn?
... except for one minor detail: the wrist pin on cylinder 3 is dead or dying. .....The engine burns a lot of oil...
DJ,
What are the symptoms that lead you to believe a wrist pin is bad?
How much oil does it actually burn?
PT1 and BuickGN, your disagreement has been removed. Take it off of BITOG or drop it.
Originally Posted By: ted s
exactly
Originally Posted By: tig1
Your engine is toast. If you have a bad cylinder because of wrist pin failure it's done for. No oil will fix that.
I agree but he may be able to prolong the inevitable. I ran straight 60wt and limped my car through a year with a rod knock while trying to save money for a rebuild.
Only thing is the pin is not pressure fed so I have to wonder how much a heavier oil would help.
exactly
Originally Posted By: tig1
Your engine is toast. If you have a bad cylinder because of wrist pin failure it's done for. No oil will fix that.
I agree but he may be able to prolong the inevitable. I ran straight 60wt and limped my car through a year with a rod knock while trying to save money for a rebuild.
Only thing is the pin is not pressure fed so I have to wonder how much a heavier oil would help.
For obvious reasons, thicker oil is better. If you feel like M1, try 15-50. It won't ruin your engine, in fact, it will work just fine in every way. It's my all time favorite oil.
Otherwise, I would go with the heaviest dino oil available. Maybe add some thickener too.
You might be surprised at the life you will get out of an engine run on heavy viscosity oil.
Just an FYI, many small engine manufacturers are getting the long EPA specs using heavier oils. So, at least in small engines the proof is in. Thicker is better.
Otherwise, I would go with the heaviest dino oil available. Maybe add some thickener too.
You might be surprised at the life you will get out of an engine run on heavy viscosity oil.
Just an FYI, many small engine manufacturers are getting the long EPA specs using heavier oils. So, at least in small engines the proof is in. Thicker is better.
Originally Posted By: djlinux64
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Keep a fire extinguisher with you. Once it puts a rod through the block any oil on the exhaust usually ignites.
I would run the thickest straight weight you can safely run in your climate assuming the noise gets worse as the engine gets hot.
Any recommendations for fire extinguisher type?
If the rod goes through the block and there is an engine compartment fire let it burn , no?
Originally Posted By: BuickGN
Keep a fire extinguisher with you. Once it puts a rod through the block any oil on the exhaust usually ignites.
I would run the thickest straight weight you can safely run in your climate assuming the noise gets worse as the engine gets hot.
Any recommendations for fire extinguisher type?
If the rod goes through the block and there is an engine compartment fire let it burn , no?
- Status
Similar threads
