PPPP 10W-30 - 2016 WRX - 5564 Miles

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3,842
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Nashville, TN via Memphis
PPPP 10W-30. This was the first oil change on the car after running the FF for ~ 2200 miles. I put 5564 miles on this oil from April to October, including a few trips to Memphis (400 miles round trip), many drives to work (38 miles round trip), and a trip to Gulf Shores (1000 mile round trip). It also saw many short trips. I don't idle the engine extensively. I always start the engine and go, but avoid full throttle and limit RPM to 3000 or so until the oil reaches at least 160 or so. The car also sat at the dealership for close to 3 months, from late June to late September, while they attempted to diagnose a noise that was eventually traced to a missing exhaust header stud nut, which resulted in exhaust gas eroding a hole in the exhaust header gasket, causing an exhaust leak and noise. A few on here made me aware that PPPP 10W-30 has a very good NOACK score (4.7%), and were of the opinion that it might hold up better in the WRX than other API-SN/RC 30wt. oils, while also being more stable and hopefully being a decent choice to hold down intake tract deposits. I think that hunch was correct, given the challenging environment of this engine (high-output, turbocharged boxer @ 134 HP/liter, direct fuel injection with known propensity to dilute crankcase oil with fuel). I think this 9.2 viscosity is still within spec for a 30wt, no? Not bad for a Walmart oil that's 22 bucks a jug. As far as I know, I'm the first to try this oil in this engine. The only thing I know they botched in the report is the sump capacity. The 2016 WRX sump capacity is 5.5 qts.
 

john_pifer

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3,842
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Nashville, TN via Memphis
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Basically they're saying your oil is full of gasoline and dirt.
Nah, the silicon is leftover sealant. Car only had ~ 7700 miles at the time of this UOA. 2nd oil change. It'll go down. Fuel contamination, as I said, is inherent with these engines. It's a consequence of DFI. That's the biggest factor in oil quality with this engine. The big question, if you go over to the "2015 WRX Used Oil Analysis" thread, on the NASIOC (North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club) forum is, did the engineers who designed the engine account for the fact that there's so much fuel dilution? The BR-Z/FR-S have essentially the same engine (albeit with the addition of port as well as direct FI) with no turbo, and they spec 0W-20 oil. The WRX calls for API SN/RC 5W-30, which usually shears down to a 20 grade. But a lot of guys are running a thicker 30 grade like M1-ESP, which starts out closer to a light 40. Personally, I didn't feel it was necessary to make the jump to a 40 weight, the way I use the car. So, knowing that 10W-30 is more stable than 5W-30, and I don't live in an area that's going to test the cold-cranking viscosity limits of 10W-30, I went with that. For my next oil change, I'll be trying PUP 10W-30, since Gena and the nice folks at Pennzoil were nice enough to send me 6 quarts of it with an oil analysis kit. However, I don't think NOACK is quite as good as PPPP 10W-30.
 
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4,245
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Kansas
Yeah,I would still give PUP 10w30 a go. Gena sent me the PUP 0w20 and I am almost ready for my second case. Honda consumed approximately 1/5 qt over 2-4k miles with previous oil being Magnatec 0w20. Took to Honda just to make sure it wasnt leaking and service mgr informed me that small consumption is possible from changing brands that have more detergents. It seemed to avg about 50ml every week till 2k miles or so on oil and now has completely leveled out. Looking at your uoa I think things will get better but I would try to avoid long idle and hopefully those high numbers are just break in floating around. Nice car.
 
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605
Location
South OZ
9.2 is entering the 20 grade but not by a lot. Not sure what the PPPP starts at? I'd be going for a thicker 30 or light 40. TBN is around 4 which means still plenty of miles left in the oil but how much more would it shear/dilute if you ran another 1000-3000 miles?
 
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2,879
Location
Malaysia
Originally Posted By: john_pifer
Personally, I didn't feel it was necessary to make the jump to a 40 weight, the way I use the car. So, knowing that 10W-30 is more stable than 5W-30, and I don't live in an area that's going to test the cold-cranking viscosity limits of 10W-30, I went with that.
Concur with you. Despite high fuel dilution of 4 over percent, the oil's viscosity thinning is not serious enough that this OCI could have been extended further to say, 7-8K. The PUP 10W30 would probably do as well,if not better I guess ... as I anticipate progressive drops in Cu and Si #s. JMHO.
 

CT8

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15,392
Location
Idaho
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Basically they're saying your oil is full of gasoline and dirt.
New engine.
 
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2,502
Location
NJ
No, no, no! You add gas on the passenger side toward the rear of the car. Not under the hood where it's marked OIL. grin2 As I just mentioned on NASIOC, Pennzoil no longer lists NOACK on their data sheets. This is a great showing considering the boatload of fuel. Keep an eye on oil level. One guy on the Forester forum had an injector replaced because his oil level was rising due to excessive fuel in the oil.
 
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