Powered Anode Rod for Water Heater-- the real deal or snake oil?

GON

$150 Site Donor 2025
Joined
Nov 28, 2014
Messages
9,338
Location
White Sands, NM
Recently I came across a video for a Powered Anode Rod for Water Heater.

I installed a powered anode rod in a well water supplied hot water heater years ago. The reason was to address a smelly hot water situation. I found it a bit concerning this specific power anode rod stated it eliminates smell in hot water (rather than may reduce/ may eliminate). This specific rod also markets its benefits of having reduced mineral sentiment in the tank if used.

I would love to see long term tests comparing a power anode rod to a steel, and an aluminum anode rod. Further, I was never comfortable it the power anode rod failed inside the tank. How would one ever know? I know the transformer has a light, but that light I suspect only measure output voltage on the transformer.

Of note this specific power anode rod sells for about double other power anode rods on Amazon, and is an Amazon besteller. I can't help but wonder if this is snake oil from the big tent.


71rf9XeVGHL._AC_SL1500_.webp
71KRzaJraNL._AC_SL1500_.webp
71RetqZ8KwL._AC_SL1500_.webp
71dfua21R7L._AC_SL1500_.webp

'
 
Last edited:
Most sacrificial anode rods are zinc so if you have sulfur in your water you get zinc sulfide and hydrogen sulfide formation and the rotten egg smell. Technically a non-sacrificial anode means no new zinc compounds added to the tank as it decomposes but that would mean only a marginal reduction of sediment.

I’m in the “if it's not broke don’t fix it” camp here. If smell is the issue I would try an aluminum rod first because it’s passive and can’t really fail until it’s all used up.

Does anyone ever replace their anode as a part of periodic preventative maintenance?
 
Most sacrificial anode rods are zinc so if you have sulfur in your water you get zinc sulfide and hydrogen sulfide formation and the rotten egg smell. Technically a non-sacrificial anode means no new zinc compounds added to the tank as it decomposes but that would mean only a marginal reduction of sediment.

I’m in the “if it's not broke don’t fix it” camp here. If smell is the issue I would try an aluminum rod first because it’s passive and can’t really fail until it’s all used up.

Does anyone ever replace their anode as a part of periodic preventative maintenance?
I do. About every three or four years. You can make a water heater last for many years doing it. You would also be surprised how nasty they look by then as well. Get one of those automotive borescopes, and you can get an idea what the insides look like so you don’t get a leaky surprise on day.
 
Recently I came across a video for a Powered Anode Rod for Water Heater.

I installed a powered anode rod in a well water supplied hot water heater years ago. The reason was to address a smelly hot water situation. I found it a bit concerning this specific power anode rod stated it eliminates smell in hot water (rather than may reduce/ may eliminate). This specific rod also markets its benefits of having reduced mineral sentiment in the tank if used.

I would love to see long term tests comparing a power anode rod to a steel, and an aluminum anode rod. Further, I was never comfortable it the power anode rod failed inside the tank. How would one ever know? I know the transformer has a light, but that light I suspect only measure output voltage on the transformer.

Of note this specific power anode rod sells for about double other power anode rods on Amazon, and is an Amazon besteller. I can't help but wonder if this is snake oil from the big tent.


View attachment 259424View attachment 259425View attachment 259426View attachment 259427
'

I, too, saw this video on YouTube, and wondered if it would do the job. Seems so short.

We have a 16 year old natural gas water heater, installed when the house was built. Never been serviced. My furnace guy strongly advised me to just go ahead and replace the whole heater, because it is located on the second floor. I agreed with him. But cannot get him to give us a call back with an estimate. Have left him a reminder message, but to no avail.

Looking pretty slim that he will get the work. He's a great guy but not a good time manager.
 
I looked into them when replacing ours but at like $120-150 and I can get a new one for $15-20 and it only needs replaced every 5-8 years......yeah......
 
I, too, saw this video on YouTube, and wondered if it would do the job. Seems so short.

We have a 16 year old natural gas water heater, installed when the house was built. Never been serviced. My furnace guy strongly advised me to just go ahead and replace the whole heater, because it is located on the second floor. I agreed with him. But cannot get him to give us a call back with an estimate. Have left him a reminder message, but to no avail.

Looking pretty slim that he will get the work. He's a great guy but not a good time manager.
I have often thought when buying a hot water heater to buy a second at the same time (spare), that way if/ when the hot water heater in use requires replacement, no modifications are requires/ simple install for the replacement.

I see a lot of hot water heaters/ water softeners installed by plumbers that do the installation that adds significant labor, parts, and disruption when a replacement water heater/ water softener is required.
 
with our old well, we didn't have any Sulfur in the water ( a rare accomplishment around here) but if the tank sat unused for a while, ( only used once a day for ex) the Hot tap got pretty Funky for a few minutes. the smell wasn't from a Sulfur Deposit in our aquifer, but rather an iron eating Bacteria ( and that well had PLENTY of Iron in the water), that creates hydrogen Sulfide gas as one of it's waste products. That bacterium is naturally in the water, and THRIVES in a water heater. Dad never bothered to change the anode, nor really flush the tank... but last spring, after having a new well (no Iron! yay!, Sulfur. BOO!) drilled the fall before, the old tank sprang a leak, and we had to have it replaced...to the tune of around $1200...( 50gal Gas) if we're still in this house in about 4 years, I'll look into changing the Anode myself.

some work friends bought a house, in a nearby village, ( even though it's "in town", still has a well and septic) when they first moved in, their hot water stank to high heaven. had a couple treatment companies come take a look, the smell wasn't from the Water itself, but their water heater. installed one of those magic anodes like OP is talking about... smell went away. that was the only change.
 
I have often thought when buying a hot water heater to buy a second at the same time (spare), that way if/ when the hot water heater in use requires replacement, no modifications are requires/ simple install for the replacement.

I see a lot of hot water heaters/ water softeners installed by plumbers that do the installation that adds significant labor, parts, and disruption when a replacement water heater/ water softener is required.
I did that semi-accidentally. Our water heater tank failed in the winter of 2015 so I bought and installed a replacement that day. Our basement has finished walls and the geniuses who drywalled it framed around the heater and then cut a hole in the drywall. The framed opening was about 1” narrower that the diameter of the water heater so I had to partially hack through the stud with a sawzall to get it out. Fun!

tank - 1.webp


At the time we owned a second house that wasn’t occupied so the water heater was turned off. As it was even older than the one I replaced I decided to buy a spare for that house that never was installled. When we sold that house I brought that water heater with me still in the box where it sits in the basement today waiting to be installed when needed. It’s identical to the current one so swapping them will hopefully be trivial.

When I removed the original I added shutoff valves to both the cold inlet and hot outlet so at least the house can have cold water if I need to isolate a leaky tank and during the swap.
 
yes these powered anodes do actually work. My friend had a new hot water tank installed, within a couple of months the water coming out (hot) smelled pretty bad. Had a powered anode installed, within about 24 hours the smell was gone, never came back.

So yup, they do work, not snake oil at all. (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: hrv
I have often thought when buying a hot water heater to buy a second at the same time (spare), that way if/ when the hot water heater in use requires replacement, no modifications are requires/ simple install for the replacement.
That strategy is probably unnecessary today with the proliferation of DIY friendly parts like Sharkbite fittings and flexible inlet/outlet lines. Also, most water heater dimensions and configuration remain unchanged within the same manufacturer for decades. The GE labeled (Rheem manufactured) water heater I installed in 1997 was replaced in 2010 with an identical Rheem unit without altering any of the connections. Both units were purchased at Home Depot and it is still available today.
 
Most sacrificial anode rods are zinc so if you have sulfur in your water you get zinc sulfide and hydrogen sulfide formation and the rotten egg smell. Technically a non-sacrificial anode means no new zinc compounds added to the tank as it decomposes but that would mean only a marginal reduction of sediment.

I’m in the “if it's not broke don’t fix it” camp here. If smell is the issue I would try an aluminum rod first because it’s passive and can’t really fail until it’s all used up.

Does anyone ever replace their anode as a part of periodic preventative maintenance?
Most are aluminum or magnesium. If there's a dimple on the nut , it is magnesium.
 
I'm curious if the powered anodes work better at preventing corrosion?
That is an outstanding question. I would imagine testing would take a few years with like equipment, like environment, like water source, and like usage. Would love to see the test results.
 
That is an outstanding question. I would imagine testing would take a few years with like equipment, like environment, like water source, and like usage. Would love to see the test results.

From a quick search, it does seem like the idea is sound. I think it's similar to "impressed current cathodic protection" used on pipelines, oil rigs, etc

https://www.corrosionpedia.com/definition/1237/impressed-current-cathodic-protection-iccp
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection#Impressed_current_cathodic_protection_(ICCP)

I'm on the fence regarding cost effectiveness though. It's the same cost as ~5 anode rods, but is more convenient and you could theoretically transfer it to your next tank. I guess it depends on how frequently you have to change anode rods.

Speaking of anode rods, it seems that magnesium is the better material as has a lower electrode potential than aluminum:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection#Galvanic

Interesting because my 2011 BW tank came with a magnesium anode, while all of the current models seem to have aluminum. Presumably for cost savings?
 
Last edited:
Here's what AI has to say about it. Take it with a grain of salt because it referenced the manufacturer's claims as sources:

Powered anodes, also known as impressed current anodes, are advanced devices designed to prevent corrosion in water heater tanks by utilizing electrical currents rather than relying on the sacrificial method used by traditional anode rods. Here's how they work and their benefits:

## How Powered Anodes Prevent Corrosion

**Principle of Operation**

Powered anode rods function based on the principle of *impressed current cathodic protection*. Unlike sacrificial anodes, which are made from more reactive metals (like magnesium or aluminum) that corrode over time to protect the tank, powered anodes use a continuous electrical current supplied from an external source.

- **Electrochemical Reaction**: When the powered anode rod is connected to a power supply, it generates a flow of direct current. This current travels from the anode rod (acting as the anode) to the water heater tank (acting as the cathode).

- **Corrosion Inhibition**: The flow of current effectively reverses the natural electrochemical reactions that lead to corrosion. Instead of metal ions flowing from the tank to corrode it, the powered anode maintains a protective layer around the tank, significantly reducing corrosion rates[1][2].

**Non-Consumable Design**

One of the key advantages of powered anodes is that they do not degrade over time like traditional sacrificial anodes. This non-consumable design means:

- **Long Lifespan**: Powered anodes can last significantly longer—often over a decade or more—without needing replacement, thus reducing maintenance costs and efforts[2][5].

- **Consistent Protection**: As they do not rely on physical degradation, powered anodes provide consistent protection against corrosion as long as they are connected to a power source[3][4].

## Benefits of Using Powered Anodes

- **Enhanced Corrosion Protection**: By continuously supplying electrical current, powered anodes offer superior protection against corrosion compared to traditional methods. This is particularly beneficial in environments with aggressive water chemistry[1][6].

- **Odor Control**: Powered anodes can also help mitigate unpleasant odors commonly associated with water heaters, particularly those caused by sulfur bacteria. The electrical current helps reduce bacterial growth, thus preventing odors without relying on chemical treatments[2][3].

- **Reduced Limescale Accumulation**: The technology used in powered anodes can destabilize calcium molecules in water, which helps prevent limescale buildup—a common issue in water heaters that can lead to inefficiency and damage[2][4].

- **Adaptability**: Many powered anodes are designed to automatically adjust to varying water conditions, providing optimal protection regardless of whether the water comes from municipal sources or wells[2][6].

In summary, powered anodes represent a significant advancement in corrosion prevention technology for water heaters. By using electrical currents instead of sacrificial materials, they provide long-lasting protection while also addressing issues like odor and limescale accumulation. Their non-consumable nature and adaptability make them a practical choice for homeowners looking to extend the lifespan and efficiency of their water heating systems.

Citations:
[1] https://www.corroprotec.com/blog/powered-anode-rod-science-explained/
[2] https://www.corroprotec.com/powered-anode-rod/
[3] https://www.waterheaterrescue.com/water-heaters-101/powered-anodes-solve-smelly-hot-water.html
[4] https://poweredanode.com
[5] https://heletitanium.com/titanium-anode/mmo-anode/powered-anode-rod/
[6] https://www.anodefactory.de/en/coll...s?shpxid=fe28cecc-f490-493b-b781-2635fc140b7c
[7] https://plumberssupply.ca/extend-the-life-of-your-water-heater-with-corro-protec
[8] https://cathwell.com/cathodic-protection-explained/
[9] https://www.corroprotec.com
[10]
[11] https://waterheatingdirect.com/blogs/news/4-reasons-to-consider-a-water-heater-powered-anode-rod
[12] https://www.icorr.org/how-does-cathodic-protection-work/
[13] https://www.homedepot.ca/product/co...-egg-smell-corrosion-and-limescale/1001558093
[14]
[15] https://corrosion-group.com/magnesium-anodes/anode-rods/
[16] https://terrylove.com/forums/index.php
[17] https://hamworthy-heating.com/Knowl...sion-protection-for-water-tanks-water-heaters
[18] https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cathodic_protection
[19] https://www.anodefactory.ca/collections/iccp-anoder-katodiskt-skydd
 
Back
Top