Pour cleaner into PCV hole to reduce baffle blockage? 1mzfe 2002 Sienna.

Not sure what that upgraded valve cover costs. I would probably just take the covers off and clean them when they are removed.
It's worth the upgrade. The older designs are inherently terrible. One of Toyota's more embarrassing engineering mistakes.

The old ones have the PCV baffle vent holes right over the rockers and gets sprayed with lots of oil. This causes excess oil consumption and also leads to plugged up vents over time. The new one puts the venting off to the side to prevent oil splashing, and is also designed to not clog with crud. It also uses a new screw-in PCV valve instead of the insanely stupid rubber grommet ones that are always an epic failure after thes harden.

Image courtesy of user Boypony at https://www.clublexus.com/forums/rx...-another-oil-sucker-fixed-valve-cover-id.html

RX300VC3.jpg
 
Not sure what that upgraded valve cover costs. I would probably just take the covers off and clean them when they are removed.

That's what I would do.

If you use good oil at reasonable intervals, and don't very extended drain intervals on dino oil, the problem won't come back. That's what causes this.
 
Regarding seafoam or any other cleaners used to clean carbon...it really depends if the carbon is more of a stain/sludge or if it actually hardened. Because if it hardened - and I find that it usually will with time and heat cycles - you aren’t getting that off with seafoam, no matter how much you dump down in there. Heck, I’ve used CRC, sprayed an entire can directly on to hardened carbon on a valve and it did NOTHING. I then let the valve soak in an entire can of seafoam for two hours, and it did NOTHING to hardened carbon. So, then I took that valve, heated it up to engine operating temperature, with the seafoam solution soaked into it, and then sprayed another entire can of CRC intake cleaner directly on to that valve...and it did next to NOTHING. Maybe a few tiny little minuscule specs came off, but nothing worth talking about. 2 entire cans sprayed directly onto the carbon, and one bottle of seafoam soaked for two hours, and then heated up the valve to operating temp (lucky I didn’t blow myself up, surprisingly it only smoked).

Unfortunately if it is hardened carbon you’ll need to replace it or scrape it.
I had soaked KANO Kreen and it did a little to remove. I used EasyOff oven cleaner and that helped. However, a rinse wipe takes care of it. A rust remover on baffle followed oil wipe is helpful. Concentrated degreaser & very hot water inside the baffle helped a lot.
 
My 2 cents when oil was all crap and sluge in valve covers you wouldn't want to disturbed it. Change oil every 3-5k and don't worry about it. Unless your going to pull it apart an do it right.
 
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