possibly overtreated engine oil with LubeGard

capacitor

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I'll see if I can get another video of the o-ring area, once the front cover is off but before the pump is removed. What I have shows only one side. I'll post photos and/or a video clip. The one I have is around 280Mb, so I need to edit it down.

This could simply be a case of a less careful oil pan installation. I'm also a big fan of engineering things so less care is anticipated ;)

If I get to rebuild the engine, I'm going with a separate oil pickup tube, that bolts into the pump.

I'm out and driving it this afternoon to experience the rest of the Jeep. Once the oil temperature is at (precisely - it's kind of like flipping a switch, hmm..) 185 degrees, the idle pressure is enough to quiet the lifters, and it rapidly ramps up to 30-45psi when driven/fast idled.
 
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capacitor

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Btw loving the vehicle, even though the a/c blend doors' gears are non-functional (and stuck on hot, so it's turned off) which is a common problem. It has the air suspension which needed fixed via replacement front elbow fittings. It needs new shocks/struts (it is 10 years old & 206k on the clock) at some point. The ELSD motor replaced, another common issue. Everything else apparently works correctly :)
 
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Interesting development! Sounds very similar to the GM o-ring issue on the LSx engines. I've never heard of it with the HEMI, but @clinebarger would be more familiar overall with the problem. Keep us updated!

Similar to a 200,000+ mile LSx.....A cold shrunk O-ring allows air to be sucked into the Oil Pump, Then it heats up & seals.

Cut pick-up tube O-rings can act similar depending on the severity of the cut.
 

capacitor

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+1. What's interesting in this case, is that it is a rebuild engine with 35k/3 years on it. The pressure issue started 3k miles ago and gradually got worse (according to the PO). If the oring is in fact mechanically compromised, the only way I know that it would happen is due to a misalignment between the hole and the top of the tube.

I just reached out to the rebuild/reman company (not naming it yet, they have a good rep) to see what their thoughts were. I believe it is out of warranty by a handful of months. I intend on sending some closeup photos their way. I have no intention of asking them for any $$ help (but if they offer, I'll take them up on that).

I'm planning on figuring this out. Even if I don't do the new pump R&R, I'll try to be there to capture the oring-to-pump area with the scope (unless I can get detailed closeups from all sides, through the drain plug).

This is fun because I got a really great deal, but only if the engine survives.

Really glad this happened (for my sake as well as my friend's who sold it to me) when it was hot out. I'm guessing that, in this state, running it during the winter would cause a lot more damage.
 

capacitor

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Quick update. I'm pretty convinced part of the problem is a compromised oil pickup tube. I'm going to put the 5w30 + Lube Gard back in, and add at least 1/2 additional quart, for a total of 7.5 quarts, and see if this impacts the startup pressure. Yep, I know it could/might/probably will foam up some of the oil in the pan.

Here's what's interesting: both times I've done an oil change, the startup immediately after adding the oil - and only that startup - has been quiet and pressure was normal. Theory is that there's a higher level of oil at that time, then after the engine gets oil in it, the oil filter's anti-drainback valve keeps it in the engine (as it should) and the level in the sump is lower.
 
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Quick update. I'm pretty convinced part of the problem is a compromised oil pickup tube. I'm going to put the 5w30 + Lube Gard back in, and add at least 1/2 additional quart, for a total of 7.5 quarts, and see if this impacts the startup pressure. Yep, I know it could/might/probably will foam up some of the oil in the pan.

Here's what's interesting: both times I've done an oil change, the startup immediately after adding the oil - and only that startup - has been quiet and pressure was normal. Theory is that there's a higher level of oil at that time, then after the engine gets oil in it, the oil filter's anti-drainback valve keeps it in the engine (as it should) and the level in the sump is lower.
Soooooo?
 
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