please help

[liqdsilver]

i have been reading all these threads, and all it does is confuse me. trying to understand all the terminology..didn't know it was so complicated. one guy says this oil is real syn, the other guy says it isn't. my question.. i have a nissan sentra 02 2.5 4banger. manual says "Only oils with the AMERICAN PETROLEUM INSTITUTE (API) certification should be used. This type of oil supercedes the existing API SG SH or SJ and Energy conserving 1&11 categories..sae 5w30 is preferred for all temps. 10w30-10w40 visc oils may be used if ambient temp is above 0degf. i am in the above 0degf range going to high 90's.
I WANT A FULL SYNTHETIC!! is the m1 full or not? which grade should i use? delvac is mobil? amsoil and shaeffer pretty much does not exist here. penzoil, castrol, mobil, quakerstate, are the ones that say "synthetic" that are available to me. please help. which one and which grade? i drive hard, mostly always close to red (6250)and i change oil at 3k kilometers, not miles (i think it's 2k or so miles..peace of mind. i don't mind the cost) car has 7,500 kilometers. thanks.

 

[icruse]

liqdsilver,
Mobil 1 10W30 SuperSyn oil is a FULL Synthetic (Group 1V) motor oil and would be just fine for what you are looking for in your particular application.
It's nice to look and read a learn about all the other types and various brands of oil, but don't lose sleep over this ( it can get to you). The Mobil 1 10W30 will be a very good choice

Good Day,
Steven

 

[liqdsilver]

thanks for the reply, but was just wondering why not the initial recomendation that i stated from the manual which says 5w30. (even though it says it's ok to use 10w30)?

 

[liqdsilver]

and was also curious about the delvac1. just a short explaination would be appreciated

 

[Al]

I see you are from b15sentra.net (I post as adc100). This is a great board. The level of knowledge here is incredible. You will get other responses but in the meantime. ... 10W-30 is preferred by most because there is less polymer in the 10W. The polymer is what breaks down and leaves you with a slightly lower viscosity at very hard driving at longer change intervals. But with the frequency you are changing, almost anything will hold up. I am recently leaning toward a slightly heavier oil. I already use one quart of 15W-50 with 3 quarts of M1 10W-30. My next change will be either 5W-40 Shell Rotella T (Full Synthetic) or Delvac 1 (made by Mobil 1). I have the 5W-30 Shaeffers full syn, but that's going into my son's GrandAm.

Again-enjoy your stay here

 

[Spector]

If cost is not an issue then just keep chanign every 2000 with the SL rated oil (dino or synthetic, )makes no diff at 2000 miles)and the engine will last well beyond what you want it too.

 

[MolaKule]

The Nissan 2.5 is a good engine, IHMO. I have found them to be hot running engines and really take an oil to its limit, however.

I run a daily driver Nissan Frontier 2.4 L, 5-speed manual. Wished I had waited a year for the 2.5L. Either way, you get V-6 performance in a 16-valve 4-banger.

At about 32,2km, I changed from synthetic 5W30 to synthetic 10W30, since the ambient temps were so high out here in DOO-dah land. (See Oil Analysis thread, just posted a new analysis).

You can run 10W30 or 10W40 for temps above 0 F. I prefer the 10W30 for its low VII's, good film thickness, and overall economy. And like you, I prefer the synth's for that added bit of high-temp insurance.

 

[The_Oz]

liqdsilver,

Welcome aboard! I see you're from Montreal. So I guess I'm no longer alone here in the boards

Anyway, by reading through the boards here, I've found that Mobil Delvac 1 5W40 is one of the best - if not, the best - oils that are available off-the-shelf. I am not comparing it to Schaeffers, AMSOIL, or Redline simply because of availability reasons.

Anyway, I am currently using Mobil Delvac 1 in my puny 1.8L Mazda engine. Theoretical numbers for Delvac 1 are very good with the exception of the NOACK value (around 10% I think). It does meet API SL specifications long before SL was even officially implemented.

As for SAE grades, I suggest you stick with either a 0W or 5W during winter, and then switch to 10W in the summer. There are people here that might suggest to run 10W year round, but I personally believe that takes a special kind of oil (ie. Schaeffers).

If you truly want to use 100% synthetic, we have:

- Mobil Tri-Syn./Super Syn and Delvac 1
- Petro Canada 5W30 Full Synthetic
- Pennzoil w/ Pennzane.

I'm not sure about Quaker State synthetics (maybe Johnny can answer that). Esso Synthetics may also be 100% synthetic as they are a subsidiary of Exxon/Mobil.

Enjoy your stay!

Oz

 

[liqdsilver]

thanks for the info guys, much appreciated. i'll keep on reading until i get the hang of all this technical stuff. i got the point on 10w30, and that's what i'll go with.

yes, i'm on b15sentra, you recognized me...wooohooo. i've seen you (and i'll see you) around too. i find these boards to be so informative, everyone keep up the good work

 

[VaderSS]

quote:

---

Pennzoil w/ Pennzane

---

Has something changed? I thought this was Group III. Not that that is bad, just that you seem to be looking for a "true sythetic," that is, Group IV. If the Pennzoil is going for 3/5ths the price of the Mobil, then it is priced about right, otherwise, I say get what you pay for. I also suggest getting the best oil for the money, and unless warranty constrains you, that would be Mobil 1 0W40.

 

[The_Oz]

quote:

---

Has something changed? I thought this was Group III. Not that that is bad, just that you seem to be looking for a "true sythetic," that is, Group IV. If the Pennzoil is going for 3/5ths the price of the Mobil, then it is priced about right, otherwise, I say get what you pay for.

---

I believe Johnny has stated that the Pennzane line is Group IV. Pennzoil w/ Pennzane synthetic is on par with prices compared to other leading synthetics here in Canada.

Regards,

Oz

 

[csandste]

Doing 3K Kilometer changes with M1 is a big waste of $$$ IMHO. If using M1, I'd probably use 5W30 all year around in your climate. Remember your engine is just one part of an expensive group of systems. Your engine might last for 400K with that oil and service schedule, but the rest of the vehicle might fall apart around it. Why do you think power train warranties are often for longer periods than the bumper to bumper?

[ August 18, 2002, 08:04 PM: Message edited by: csandste ]

 

[Patman]

Yep, changing the oil that often is really not needed at all. You honestly won't get any longer
life out of your engine changing that oil at 3000km than you would at 6 or 7000km. Plus if
you decide to spend $35 CDN on Delvac 1, you should at least get your money's worth out of it and run it for 10,000km or more. It should handle that interval with ease.

[ August 18, 2002, 08:31 PM: Message edited by: Patman ]

 

[liqdsilver]

alright, i'm confused again. that's why i have trouble with this board. between delvac1, 10w30, and 0w40, what would be the difference other than drain period. if one has longer drain period than another, i would think there must be some compromise somewhere else. please clarify the differences between these.

 

[sprintman]

D1 5W40 is a syn gasoline/diesel rated oil. Sorta like M1 on steroids (exceeds SL and CI-4). M1 0W40 is a higher spec oil than your std M1 variety. On the viscosity side US makers tend to "agree to disagree' with the rest of the world and push lighter X/20 or X/30W oils. A four letter word (CAFE) does that to you if you get my drift. We go for higher viscosity for engine longevity (and thats in identical engines to those sold in the US). An X/40W syn or say Schaeffers 15W40 blend will cover just about any condition you can think of for any engine IMHO. But then 20W50 is far and away the biggest seller here so what would I know!

 

[SteveD2]

Mobil Delvac 1 is a lube oil for diesel engines, but it is also a fine oil for gasoline engines. The viscosity is 5W-40

Mobil 1 oil is primarily for gasoline engines. The 0W- oil is better in frigid weather, 5W- for weather almost that cold, and 10W- for weather not quite that cold.

The 30 wt. oils are just right for your car year round, and you may use the 40 wt. oils in the summer, or maybe in the winter.

What I'm trying to say is you can not go wrong with any of these. And, with any of these, you can leave the oil in the car for at least the full interval shown in your owner's manual.

Mobil 1 5W-30 will do an excellent job for you all year round. 10W-30 is OK except in the coldest part of the winter. 0W-40 is excellent all year. Delvac 5W-40 is a wonderful oil.

What to do? Buy the cheapest Mobil 1 you can find, except don't use the 10W-30 in winter. Buy good filters. Change at the intervals shown in your owner's manual. Don't worry. Be happy.

Ken

 

[Johnny]

Two things I picked up on. You want a real synthetic and you listed the products available to you. If that's the case, you only have one choice, Mobil 1.

Pennzoil with Pennzane is a Group III base stock. The only synthetic we make that is a PAO synthetic is our European Formula 5W40. Same goes for Quaker State.

The viscosity is up to you. If I lived where you do, I would go with either 5W30 Mobil 1 or 5W40 Delvac 1.

 

[metroplex]

Johnny:

Quaker State's Synthetic line has a 55-65% Hydrogenated homopolymere 1-DEcense base stock.

Pennzoil w/ Pennzane's Synthetic line has 75-85% Synthetic Base Stock (no CAS# available).

I got this info from their MSDS's

Pennzoil w/ Pennzane is API SL/GF-3, while Quaker State's Synth is only API SJ/GF-2.

Their pour points and other specs are different, and their 5W-50 shows a big different.
QS pour pt for 5W-50 is -37C, while Pennzoil's Pour Point is -50C.

I can't find M1 at a price lower than $4.50 a quart here in Northern NJ. Those big 5 quart or 4 qt jugs of M1 do not exist in wal-mart