please help me select a good oil for my new car.

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quote:

Originally posted by mikemc:
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If you change your oil every 3,000 miles, there is absolutely no reason to use a synthetic. It would be a waste of money for that few miles. Any of the better dino (conventional) oils in 5w30 (or 10w30 above freezing temps) would do just fine. Castrol GTX, Pennzoil and Havoline have all proven to be very good oils for 3,000 to 5,000 mile intervals. Exxon Superflo and TropArtic are gaining fans here as well.


Hey thanks for the advice mabey I will just stick with the regular stuff, do you think it would be worth it to run a cleaner like auto-rx through it?
 
What about going with a 5w-30 semi blend like castrol syntec blend and OCI's every 5,000mi, has anyone here tried castrol's syntec blend and had good results??
 
quote:

Originally posted by onequick99si:
What about going with a 5w-30 semi blend like castrol syntec blend and OCI's every 5,000mi, has anyone here tried castrol's syntec blend and had good results??

I've used the Mobil Blend and the Castrol Blends. There is a UOA on both here UOAs with Blends

Take care, Bill
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quote:

Originally posted by onequick99si:

quote:

Originally posted by mikemc:
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If you change your oil every 3,000 miles, there is absolutely no reason to use a synthetic. It would be a waste of money for that few miles. Any of the better dino (conventional) oils in 5w30 (or 10w30 above freezing temps) would do just fine. Castrol GTX, Pennzoil and Havoline have all proven to be very good oils for 3,000 to 5,000 mile intervals. Exxon Superflo and TropArtic are gaining fans here as well.


Hey thanks for the advice mabey I will just stick with the regular stuff, do you think it would be worth it to run a cleaner like auto-rx through it?


I've never used the auto-rx so I can't say. Given the maintenence history of the vehicle, it sould be fairly clean inside.
 
onequick99si:
I would definately pop the valve cover and look for sludge, when I had my 99 si (bought it used with 30k + miles on it) it was sludged so bad I couldnt believe it. The previous owner used conventional oil and really didnt stick to a regular OCI, so when I went to put in the GSR cams I was totally shocked. It was so bad that I had to take the head off to properly clean it.

I would recommend an auto rx treatment, then use a fully synthetic oil. I used M1 at 6,000 mile OCI's and had no sludging for the next 58k that I owned the car.

Most peoples cars never see anything over 5500 rpm, 8200 rpm is a whole different ballgame. The red line by itself on this car is enough to justify the switch to synthetic.
I still miss that car,so what color is yours, flamenco black pearl, electron blue pearl or milano red? You know the FBP ones are the fastest right...
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Si guy,

You asked earlier about Honda recommending 5W-20 and I don't think anyone answered your question. The answer is very simple. About two years ago now, Honda switched to 5W-20 as kind of a 'corporate standard' oil grade. The reasons for that included trying to get the best fuel economy out of their engines. You'll see that Ford has done the same thing since then as well.

In any event, no one here has mentioned what I consider to be one of the best deals on the market in the Motorcraft branded oils. In a 5W-30 weight it's actually a synthetic blend. Wal-Mart stopped carrying it, but rumors are that it's been popping up once again. You can get it at O'Rielly's, AutoZone, etc. though.

Incidentally, I had a '94 Civic Coupe EX that I drove for 208k miles. Ran Castrol GTX nearly all it's life and never an oil-related issue. With a few mods, I snuck up on many of the Si's around here. Fun stuff.

Best of luck,
Ashley
 
quote:

Originally posted by TurboLuver:
onequick99si:
I would definately pop the valve cover and look for sludge, when I had my 99 si (bought it used with 30k + miles on it) it was sludged so bad I couldnt believe it. The previous owner used conventional oil and really didnt stick to a regular OCI, so when I went to put in the GSR cams I was totally shocked. It was so bad that I had to take the head off to properly clean it.

I would recommend an auto rx treatment, then use a fully synthetic oil. I used M1 at 6,000 mile OCI's and had no sludging for the next 58k that I owned the car.

Most peoples cars never see anything over 5500 rpm, 8200 rpm is a whole different ballgame. The red line by itself on this car is enough to justify the switch to synthetic.
I still miss that car,so what color is yours, flamenco black pearl, electron blue pearl or milano red? You know the FBP ones are the fastest right...
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Well I called my mechanic and asked how it looked when he adjusted the valve lash and he remembers it being squeaky clean! Yesterday I went ahead and did a complete tune up on the car with performance parts iridium plugs magnacor wires new cap rotor changed the manual transmission fluid over to redline mtl, it shift's a whole lot smoother now
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and bought a case of the castrol syntec blend 5w-30 $1.99 qt & the factory nippon filters, the engines seems quieter upon start and the same while running. O and mines milano red
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Oh, Syntec Blend was not a bad choice at all; perhaps better protection than conventional oil. If you want to run synthetic, Mobil 1 EP 10w-30 would be my choice as well.
 
I'd honestly use 10w-30 summer, 5w-30 winter for your Si, non synthetic, especially since the engine was "squeeky clean" already woth 90K worth of that abismal dino juice
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I've know a few people with high performance DOHC VTEC equipped cars and Mobil 1 goes through them like mountain dew through me. I know one guy who has around 50,000 miles worth of Greddy turbo kit on a GSR, and all he runs is GTX 5w-30. Stock engine. Everything is A-OK; squeeky clean, no excessive valve lash, no sludge etc.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Drew99GT:
I'd honestly use 10w-30 summer, 5w-30 winter for your Si, non synthetic, especially since the engine was "squeeky clean" already woth 90K worth of that abismal dino juice
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I've know a few people with high performance DOHC VTEC equipped cars and Mobil 1 goes through them like mountain dew through me. I know one guy who has around 50,000 miles worth of Greddy turbo kit on a GSR, and all he runs is GTX 5w-30. Stock engine. Everything is A-OK; squeeky clean, no excessive valve lash, no sludge etc.


Well I went with the syntec blend since the car has had dino run through it from day one! and I figured that the blend only had a small amount of synthetic just enough to keep it clean. Do you think this was a bad choice
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I have heard good things about castrol syntec blend in the forum and squeaky clean well those were my mechanics words not mine
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I wonder about synthetic blends. If they put out an oil with 90% dyno oil, it's still a blend and you might be paying for something you're not getting. Castrol calls a dyno oii synthetic and Mobil has so many labels it hard to tell what you're getting, unless you're an oil geek. It appears that the blends are just another marketing trick.
 
I heard that honda's vtec engines like oil that has a lot of moly is this true and does anyone know if castrol syntec blend the oil I went with contains much moly??
 
quote:

Originally posted by AndyH:

quote:

Originally posted by onequick99si:
I heard that honda's vtec engines like oil that has a lot of moly is this true and does anyone know if castrol syntec blend the oil I went with contains much moly??

Here's a VOA (virgin oil analysis) on Castrol Syntec blend:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000222


To be honest I don't know how to read these reports, are these results considered good??
 
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