Please be with me until I get what I want

[ITTI]

Hi

Please be with unitl I get all answers

1-What is the different betweeen synthitec, semi-synth & synth blend oils?

2-In general: how can I compare between 2 oils or more have the same viscosity like 10w-30?

3-I read in wikipedia oil which has the highest visosity index is the best?is that true?

4-does weather temp affect on car temp or in other word on car engin temp (car engine temp will affect on oil viscosity)?

5-My frind has grand marquis (imported from America) he read in owner manual use use 5w-20, he also read in hyundai owner manual: use 5w-20 engine oil but if you in ABC area (his area) the weather is hot it is better to use 5w-30 or 10w-30. does this poin applies to his car or in general ford cars?

6-In general what is the better: fully synth oil with viscosity index 162 or synth blend with viscosity index 165?

7-If I hsve car use 5w-30 viscosity. is there any problem if I use 5w-40, 0w-40?

8-In oils characteristics flash poin means:temperature at and above which a liquid gives off enough flammable vapor to form a mixture with air that can be ignited by contact with a hot surface, spark, or flame.So how can I know engine temp to use oil has high flash point?

9-We know that oile evaporates.What is the acceptable loss? i.e. 15%, 20% or ....?(because when I measure engine oil I will know this loss is acceptaple)


Thank you for reading my questions

 

[Garak]

I'll help you with some. For your first question, there's plenty of reading you can do on that here and on the net in general. All that's likely to happen here is a war.

For question 2, viscosity index and HTHS would be valuable ways to compare, particularly the HTHS. You can have a 10w-30 SN/GF-5 with an HTHS of around 3.0 or 3.1, whereas an HDEO 10w-30 would be 3.5 or higher.

For question 3, VI is important, but I would hesitate to say that one parameter, VI or otherwise, would make an oil the "best."

As for viscosity, oil temperature does fluctuate, of course, and that affects viscosity, with hotter oil thinning out. Oil temperature can be different in different weather, depending upon the nature of oil cooling in that engine. So, it depends, basically. Coolant temperature should be within a rather narrow range, regulated by the cooling system.

For your friend with the Grand Marquis, 5w-20, 5w-30, or 10w-30 would all be acceptable. I'd use whatever he can get that meets the appropriate specification, is a quality oil, and at a decent price. Sometimes, we in North America are given different viscosity options than elsewhere in the world. There are varying reasons for it, but do note that North America has some of the hottest and coldest temperatures anywhere.

Using a 5w-40 or a 0w-40 where a 5w-30 is specified isn't a huge problem. But, it's good to have a reason. There are places where 5w-30 is hard to find or expensive.

Don't worry about flash point. Don't worry much about volatility. Assuming the oil meets the specifications for the engine in question, it will not be an issue.

 

[Barkleymut]

#9. Oil evaporates at a very slow rate if at all. If your oil level drops it is because you are leaking or burning oil. Either way it is easy to check the oil level.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: Barkleymut
#9. Oil evaporates at a very slow rate if at all. If your oil level drops it is because you are leaking or burning oil. Either way it is easy to check the oil level.


Oil evaporates at a slow rate compared to, say, water in your dog's dish, and you'll never lose enough through volatility to measure it on a dipstick. That's certainly true. But whether a tiny amount evaporates, or a super-infinitesimally tiny amount evaporates DOES make a difference in things like PCV cleanliness, sludge formation, emissions system degradation, and (big one) intake deposits, especially on DI engines. That's why NOACK volatility is becoming a more important criteria for the latest oil performance standards.

 

[GutsyGecko]

1) The base stocks and amount of refining
2) Look up the PDS sheets and compare add packs, VI, pour points and the like.
3) Not particularly. Highest VI means that oil will most likely be the easiest to pump when cold, but VII can leave deposits (varnish) in your engine, and can also cause shearing out of grade.

4) Once the car has reached operating temp it will be the same year round. The only difference is during winter it takes longer to warm up.
5) As for the grand marquis, I would advise you to use a 0w, or 5w, 20 or 30wt oil. The timing chains on them are not very tolerant of very thick oil on startup. (Reads a 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30). No, most ford cars specify a specific grade.

6) Full synthetic
7) No problem at all. Lots of people move up a grade. A 0w-40 works for just about anything.
8) Don't worry about it. In order to get API certification, the oil must be below 10% NOACK. Although lower is better.

9) Oil does no evaporate. It is burned or leaked. Up to 1 quart per 1000 miles is considered acceptable by manufacturers. Keep an eye on that dipstick!

10) You are welcome. Enjoy your stay at BITOG.

 

[ITTI]

OK

Know I can say: the best oil has the highest viscosity index in other word when viscosity index is high , you can drive more miles.Please confirm to me?

-In Hyundai owner manuale they recommend to use shel oils. Shel oil for viscosity 10w-30 viscosity index is 138 and I found fuchs oil for viscosity 10w-30 viscosity index is 144. what is the better for Hyuandai cars?
In other word if car manofacture recommand to use ABC company oils & I found oil for the same viscosity for DEF company oils is better (in characterestucs) than the first one what should I use?


-GutsyGecko:in your answer number 9 do you mean 250 ml per 1600 km? and that point is in genera?


-Does synthetic & semi-synth oils are 10-30% synth?


-I found shel super plus 20w-50 with viscosity index 137 & veedol 20w-50 with viscosity index 133 & semi-synth. What is the better?


-Is it important or critical to use oils have API SN, SM or SL?
Because I found Fuchs 5w-30 API:SL with viscosity index 176 or 175, castrol fully synth 5w-30 API: SM VI 165-168, Motorcraft synth blen 5w-30 API:SN with VI 165 & Petromine fully synth 5w30 API: SN with VI 162
If not critical I think the best is
1-Fuchs
2-Castrol
3-Petromine
4-Motorcraft

Garak, Barkleymut, 440Magnum thank you very very very much for your answer specialy you GutsyGecko

 

[Quattro Pete]

Originally Posted By: ITTI
OK

in other word when viscosity index is high , you can drive more miles.Please confirm to me?


No. Not sure how you came to this conclusion.

If you want an oil suitable for extended drains (drive more miles), then your best bet is to find good synthetic oil. One way to find it is to look for an oil meeting MB 229.5 spec or BMW LL-01 spec. Both these specs have been developed to specifically address long drain intervals, among other things. They are some of the more stringent PCMO specs in existence today.

Or did you mean better fuel economy when you wrote "drive more miles"? Sorry, slight language barrier here...

 

[ITTI]

I mean by better more milage
In my previous example you can drive by fuchs oil Let's say 7000 miles , castrol 6500 miles, petromine 6000 & motorcraft 5500

did you understand what I mean?

thank you Qyattro Pete

 

[Ducman]

Point 1 :- All oils are a blend of different types of synthetics, and some mineral oils to some degree.
When the oil manufacturers start promoting an oils virtues based upon it's perceived quality of base stocks, then you're just getting caught up in the marketing departments spin.

Point 2 :- The best you can do is try to find the best quality oil you can afford.
There are thinner 30 grades and thicker ones. The oil grading system groups oils
within a range of Kinematic Viscosities.

Point 3 :- Don't get too hung up on VI. It's potentially overrated as a quality indicator.
It's not all that important as a measure of an oils quality when you are looking at 15 or more points difference may be enough to get interested in though.
There are oils with higher VI that don't perform as well as others in some tests that have a slightly lower VI.

Point 4 :- As a starting point, focus on your viscosity requirements.
From what you have said about your local weather/ambient temps. It looks like you will be well served by an oil that's in the middle of everybody's recommendations.
Say 5w-30 or 10w-30.
I recommend (according to availability), you chose what is the best you can afford from those 2 grades.
Alternatively a 0w-40 will be good.
From what you have said, I would probably keep away from any Xw-20 oil where you live.
Weather/ambient temp has a fair amount of importance on your required viscosity.

Point 5 :- It has a bearing on all cars. But if in doubt pick a viscosity in the middle and you can't go too far wrong.

Point 6 :- either of the two would be fine. The one marketed as a full synthetic will cost you more. But it may not necessarily be better in service, or it may be better than you will need.

Point 7 :- Not really

Point 8 :- Don't worry about it. The oils now days are extremely good, and flashpoint is not that critical.
Noack Volatility is much more important as a guide to the oils quality.

Point 9 :- Oil does not evaporate. It's not an issue.
Noack Volatility is what you would be looking at as a guide.



I should imagine that Mobil 1 would be a good brand for you to look at as a starting point.

What brands have you got available to you where you live?

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: ITTI
I mean by better more milage
In my previous example you can drive by fuchs oil Let's say 7000 miles , castrol 6500 miles, petromine 6000 & motorcraft 5500

Technically, it's possible to get better fuel economy with a higher VI oil, but not readily measurable by you and I. For how long the oil lasts - as in the oil change interval - I'd look for something with the long drain certifications, such as A1/B1 A5/B5 or A3/B3 A3/B4, above and beyond API and ILSAC certifications. Of course, a UOA would be helpful to confirm this.

 

[ITTI]

Most datasheets like these:
http://www.petromin.com/resources/catalogs/SUPER_SYNTHETIC_GF5.pdf

https://www.fcsdchemicalsandlubricants.c...tic%20Blend.pdf

have a common characterestics like: VI, pour pohnt, flash point & specific gravity>
I kknow they have different viscosity but all the datasheets I read them like the previouse>

I want to know how I can detrmine an oil If I use it I will drive more miles or kiloes (at the same driving conditions)

thank you for every one shared us his knowledge

 

[Garak]

For the first stuff, the Petromin 5w-30, while it looks "good" at first glance, its claims are ridiculous. It cannot be both SN/GF-5 and have all those European specifications. Some are mutually exclusive. So, that makes no sense. So, if you buy it, you really don't know what you're getting.

The Motorcraft looks reasonable. Generally speaking, I'd look for an A1/B1 A5/B5 oil, A3/B3 A3/B4, or even something with an E7 certification. At least then, you're getting some minimum TBN beyond an normal SN/GF-5 lube.