Plastic oil drain plug on newer Fords

[MNgopher]

Put me in the other camp I guess. 5 years in and I've not had an issue with the plastic drain plug on my 2016 2.7 equipped F150. For all the complaints about it spilling all over the sway bar, mine doesn't. Can't tell you what the difference is, just that it isn't an issue for me...

Does it come out fast? Yep. Big old drain pan, no problem.

Also, still on the original plug 72,000 miles, 5years, and around 10 oil changes to date. I appreciate no tool is needed, just my hand.

 

[MParr]

I’ve done two oil changes on mine. Yes, the sway bar is in direct line of the oil flow. I’m on the original drain plug. I have a spare and a spare o-ring. I control the flow by keeping the drain plug partially in, until the flow slows. I don’t have a problem with the plastic drain pan. The drain plug design could be better. I have to use pliers to open it and make sure it’s closed. The reason for this is osteoarthritis in my thumbs. I wished Fumoto or EZ Valve would come out with one. I would certainly buy one.

 

[meep]

I bought the ronin and removed it. The sway bar directly interferes with putting on hose on it, and i made a mess trying to twist it enough to get a good flow.... it just dribbled. I think I’ve done 4-5 changes on mine, and now it’s cleaner for me using the yellow Ford plug. I should probably buy a couple spares.

I use a 5” crescent wrench to open/close the plug.

 

[JeffKeryk]

I THINK you are supposed to replace the plastic plug periodically; not sure. I did when I serviced my friend's F-150 with over 100K on the clock.
Perhaps it's the o-ring that may fail over repeated use and time?
It wasn't that big a deal. If I do it again, I may just use a piece of cardboard to direct the flow straight down into the drain pan.

 

[AnthemBassMan]

Ford did a great job by routing the sway bar right across the path of the oil flow on the pans with the rear facing plug. It turns it from coming out as a 1” stream to foot and a half mess making spray.

L8R,
Matt

 

[SHOZ]

My Hyundai has a plastic cap for the AC condenser where the filter/dryer is. Then a rinky dink hex head allen for it to remove. I had to use a drill and drill it out then grab it with the destroyers. I had a kit for everything to do a complete AC job but the cap......

 

[wolfox03SS]

Just FYI?

You're still going to get oil blown in your face on a breezy day... no matter what product you use. ;>

However, if you use a quick change pan plug that won't drain until you attach it's hose and tap extension - you have a better chance of directing oil where you want to drain it. It's now just a matter of how long you want to wait for that oil to ooze its way through a valve and tube...

 

[JavierH19]

I call them the dog di*k plug from putting up with it.

 

[Kestas]

Because their oil pans kept rusting out in the salt belts.

Strange. This has never been a wholesale problem in industry for all the decades of automobile production.

 

[SHOZ]

Strange. This has never been a wholesale problem in industry for all the decades of automobile production.

Do a internet search for Ford F150 rusty oil pan.. Two people I know have had this issue locally.

 

[tc1446]

My two cars also use the "plastic'' plugs. I use Mityvac instead.

 

[SHOZ]

Hyundai uses a plastic cap on the AC condenser filter dryer plug. You have to destroy them to get them out.

 

[4WD]

Is Fumoto not an option as well?

Yesterday I did my oil change with one ramp … very heavy wood ramps,
(would not do this with plastic ramps) …
My oil filter and Fumoto valve are on the Driver side … so clean/easy …

 

[Kira]

$80 for the first one. $60 for the second one and the Dorman one doesn't show how it operates

And what's with those "magnetic tips"? They appear not to come out. How do you clean 'em?

Maybe fabricate a splash shield and live through this hardship?